Wish I had started a thread on this sooner, but many have seen the progress pics in the Kubota thread. Took a couple of video's today, as we've had a good bit of rain recently. But not as much as we will get during a spring thaw that has a bit of rain as additional runoff. I think that I may need to redo the crossover work and install more, and/or larger piping. So, I submit these videos for suggestions. The inflow of the crossover pipes, you may be able to see it, but the water is approximately 3/4 of the pipe diameter. The outflow of the pipes is robust, and approximately only about 1/4 to 1/3 of pipe diameter. Hopefully those vid links work, it's a new Youtube acct. Thx guys.
Thx Eric VW I figure that will be the consensus. I had planned on using 2 6" pipes, but the Orange box store didn't have any. I've got a call out looking to get some 8" pipe, but that also means I've gotta redo all the rock work. Eh, live and learn I guess.
I would go with 1 - 12" culvert if you have cover enough, if not they do make a CMP (corrugated metal pipe) in 9" x 14" .
Thx JCMC Not sure what you mean by "cover enough", but if you're referring to availability to dig wider and deeper, then yes. If you're referring to "top cover", that is in abundance also. I never took fluid mechanics in school, I know a good deal about closed loop hydraulic systems, but that is of no use in this situation. It is clear that I did not take into consideration the amount of water that would need channeled. Ironically, I have the tendency to "overdo" on projects like this as I'm a fan of overkill. Well, I will take all advice and try to formulate a game plan. I do think that I can't really go wrong if I up the ante towards 12" - 14" pipe. I don't wanna mess with it a third time.
Years ago I did a summer job with the Soil Conservation Service. Their engineering specs called for 2’ of cover over a culvert. (Edit: I think a 12” or larger culvert can “rise” up with inadequate cover due to rocking/flexing and freeze/thaw) On the other hand, I’ve got a 8” culvert installed with 6” of cover that I drive over with the army trailer loaded with firewood with no ill effects. My culvert is undersized but is graded so the occasional overflow runs across the roadway, but not right at the culvert.
Of course going with a larger diameter or two is a good way to go...but with that flow you probably have enough to put in a Ram Pump if you have a need for one (or just want to play with one), they are very cool.
FYI, everytime you go up a size...4-6-8, you over double the flow capacity 4" = 113 GPM 6" = 330 GPM 8" = 704 GPM (figured with gravity fed pipe at 20' long, 2" drop) Here's a good tool to play around with a lil...CalcTool: Gravity-fed pipe flow calculator
This ^ ^ ^. 8" would work, but 10" is better...and 12" better yet...4-6" stuff will need to be opened up constantly...and plug at the worst possible times!
What brenndatomu said three leaves and twigs in that small ones is covered and clogged. If you're going to go that small because that's all you need I would suggest a metal grate in the front of it. so like a hoe could easily clean it off.. - mine is 5 ft in diameter culvert. The trick to getting your inflow and outflow to equalize is to place in my case a 6in air pipe vent in top. a 6 inch pipe inside hung to the top of the 5 foot pipe. Air pipe comes out with a 90 on intake side.. It equalize the pressures.
Got to tractor supply or a similar farm store. The national home improvement stores aren't going to have what you need (12"-15" corrugated HDPE).
This is a good idea! Place the pipes so they drain at low and moderate water flows but have an armored (rip rap or quarry spalls) spillway to the side that will carry high flows or plugged pipe situations. Fun stuff to play with!
I was going to suggest that if the water only runs when it rains a lot, and its not an area that you absolutely have to get to at any given time, grading out a nice wide and shallow swail for a crossing can work quite well. We did that at work on a stream crossing...dug it out and poured concrete for the bottom...now we can drive trucks across at any time except in times of flooding...and no need to get to that area at those times, so its all gooder!
I would recommend at least 12" of material to cover the top of the pipe. Use the biggest diameter pipe as you can. If you do use corrugated HDPE make sure it is smooth interior as it has more strength.
Double-wall corrugated HDPE pipe is unbelievably strong. If you backfill with 2A stone around and 12" over the top of the pipe you can run a triaxle over it without hurting it.
Great input and opinions guys, thanks much. Yes, bigger is definitely planned, exact size is yet to be determined. Yep, Both correct, I had to clear some leaves away before I took the video. I thought that would be a concern, but took a "wait and see" approach. It is indeed not an area that is or has been often travelled, but it has been an inconvenience to not be able to get across to the lower section. It is usable as is, and will likely be prone to some washouts from time to time until it is fixed properly. The only issue with your suggestion that I can see, is that the water is always flowing in that area. I'm not sure how I could divert the water in order to let the concrete cure up. This may be the short term solution I go with till next year. I've got more things to button up before snow starts flying to worry about it much at this point in the year. Unfortunately, as I anticipated, the area is already getting to "marsh" quality, so unless I want a mud bog trail, it will not be used a lot until drainage can be further addressed. The good part of that, is it gives me a lot of time to consider my options before the wallet is opened. Tractor Supply has double and single walled corrugated, 15" x 20' Single walled, $200 for 20 foot Double walled, $300 for 20 foot. Neither of which is smooth bore. I also realize many suggestions are offered to build a very robust crossover, but I cannot see a situation where any large and/or heavy vehicles will be going into that area. Primary use, ATV with cart loaded with wood. Tractor will cross, and has already with no ill effects on what I built, I just didn't size things appropriately. Thanks again everyone, we'll come up with a game plan yet.
You dig a quicky diversion channel with your new toy...concrete away...then fill diversion channel back in afterwards. FYI, concrete cures just fine under water, the curing process a chemical reaction that can't be stopped once the concrete is mixed...and water cured 'crete is actually a lil stronger than air cured too. Whenever there is a job that has engineering specs for the concrete, the test samples are cured under water. I poured a retaining wall along a creek recently, the bottom of it was actually in the creek and the form was full of water when we started pouring...and since 'crete is heavier than water, the water floated to the top as we poured
Talk to any local excavating company and tell him you'd like a piece of 12 inch plastic or steel culvert how ever long you need. If he doesn't have it he should know where to get it
Good point...they often have leftover pieces after big jobs...and the customer doesn't always (or even often) want the leftover pieces even though they already paid for it.
