What's up today (bullchiting) thread.

Yeah, that's about the (starting) range I'm figuring also. I told him he might just as well replace both solid lines for the front, since they route parallel to each other, so I figure the other isn't long for life.
Also told him to go over the rear line just to make sure it's not gonna be habit forming.

I do enjoy the back roads a fair bit, so brakes are the biggest MUST on my vehicle.

Can't say as I was thrilled obviously, but to be honest, I wasn't really upset that much.. just

Glad that there were no problems with brakes while on the way to work, or anywhere else.
Having the pedal meet the floor while parked.. BEST case scenario.

Maybe I've harassed/irritated one of my co-workers just a touch too far.
(you hearing this Eric VW ??)

 

New .22 nitro air rifle: 1
Mr. Groundhawg: 0

 

Pics price and review.. Please

 

Chaz, my main lines went from front to rear wheel down frames both sides.. Caliper on one wheel I replaced as bleeder valve was rusted to point of not working..

 

Gun was a gift...but I think they run $150 ish (Benjamin Titan) Benjamin Titan NP (.22)
The hawg was free...but now worth at least 'bout $0.12 worth of lead
No pics of the perforated varmint, if that's what you want...
Its my first np rifle, so nothing to compare it to...seems to work gooder though...the online reviews are pretty good, and I think it seems like a good value...probably about the highest power rifle I am comfortable using here with a couple neighbors being 1000' away. Wasn't out of the box for 2 hours until it started earning its keep...

 

Consulting the service manual for the car indicates that the lines I'm thinking of are the main lines to the ABS brake modulator, one front, one rear. I'm hoping at this point that those short runs are all that need replaced at this time, but you know how it is.. if one or two lines are rusting through, the entire system becomes suspect.

I had (i think) front calipers replaced shortly after purchase, but the others (rears) should still be good, as I've had no braking issues.. till today.

He'll give me a call tomorrow and let me know what the damage will be, and we'll go from there.

Keeping the economy moving, one breakdown at a time.

 

damm rust will show up when least expected.

Happened to me also back in the working days! Just crawled under (sorta...more like reached under) and peened the brake line closed in order to make it home.

 

Yeah, it's a lot better than losing brakes while in motion. That's real scary.

 

That's what I was hoping for, but being up under the frame, I didn't feel like dickering around with it.
I made good use of the "parking" brake, and only hit the regular brakes to alert drivers behind me.

As to rust showing up unexpected, you know that we here in the North must ALWAYS expect it.
Like death and taxes, it's gonna happen.

 

They do make roll-pin punches, and they work pretty well. But for the stubborn, stuck to paint, rusted ones..... I have an easy trick.
I was shown this by a guy who makes farm equipment.
Heat the pin, aiming through the center (propane, MAPP gas, oxy/act.) Get it hot but not glowing. Shoot a few squirts of water from a squirt gun into the pin center.
One good pop with a hammer and punch will knock it loose.
Theory- The steel heats up and expands a bit, breaking the grip of whatever is holding it. The water causes a quick contraction of the steel, freeing it up. A good pop breaks it free. It works.

 

This quite often works with stuck nuts/bolts, etc too

 

Heading out for coffee with the guys at the bakery.

Usually, when I stay at the cottage, I've had 1/2 pot down by this time! Everyone have a good day!

 

Often times they will have to make those lines as the manufacturer no longer does.

And not saying it's the right thing buy I have been known to splice a line. Cut the bad out, flare both ends and use 2 unions and a new piece of line, or use a union compression fitting if it was a small spot.

 

Link