066 muffler went to bits

Was into some 22" birch today and something sounded funny with the muffler. I could tell it was loose. Back at the barn i took the cover off and one of the through holes had opened up such that the head of the screw could fit through. The other side had completly lost the corner! Went to take the muffler itself off and one of those screw heads snapped. Gonna try to weld a nut on it and back it out but cant get to a tig machine till later in the week. Sucks cuz i wanted to slice some 30" oaks tomorrow. So question: can a fab up a flat plate for the muffler cover? And is there perhaps anything wrong that caused this to happen?

 

Sounds like it rusted out. That is common. You can get a screw puller at HD for pretty cheap to remove the muffler bolt head in the engine.

As for fab'ing a plate to cover the muffler cover with, is it a dual port (Magnum) or flat no-port cover? If it was a no-port cover, fab'ing a temporary flat plate cover is fine. If it was a dual ported cover you would have to re-tune the carb leaner to account for the dual front port being blocked. If/when you get a new muffler cover, order an 066 Magnum muffler cover which has another port, and then re-tune the saw with it on to richen up the saw mix. You will get about 10% more power out of a DP muffler cover.

 

You can get a dp cover on ebay for 20 and a whole muffler (with dp cover) for 40.

 

Its a no port cover. Could i just add a port to the plate i make? If so, should that hole be the same size as hole in current port on muffler?

 

Make the total openings in the muffler equal to about 80% of the exhaust port and retune.

 

You could drill 2 holes about 1/4 in in diameter to get the same effect. Retune the carb though and richen it up until it burples/4-strokes at WOT out of the wood with the B&C on it. Then do a cut in the wood at WOT and the sound should clean up. If not, lean it out a smidge.

 

Just buy a new DP muffler from EBAY. Then retune your saw.

You will ahve to retune your saw even with a home fab job, it may not flow the same or someting, whatever you do you wnat to make sure your "4 stroking" at WOT.

 

Some more damage. In addition to the muffler shown i will need some new springs for the clutch and brake. Now the three little clips shown at right: where do they go and are they supposed to look like that? The edges do look broken. Is there anything else that is out of place? Looks like parts were bouncing around under there but clutch was operational. I was also having low/no oiling. How do i start to go about checking that out? Going to order dual port muffler i guess. Where is good place to go to for other parts? At least i was working in front of a nice fire tonight...

 

U need to pull spark plug and stop the piston then pull the rest of the clutch out. The springs go through the holes holding the pieces together. Look on eBay its a good place for Or stuff and aftermarket. Look up your saw one bay and the clutch.Say like husky 350 clutch or whatever you have. You will see the completed clutches there. I would also buy a DP cover off eBay.

 

Remember that the clutch spider has reverse threads. Use a piston stop or rope to freeze the piston and crank. Once you have the clutch off, make sure your bearings are tight, and the seals are working while you are in there. Yank on the crank and make sure there is no play. Stuff bouncing around in there sounds similar to mine. My first 066 failed with a bad clutch side bearing under there and it took the oil pump out with it. Too expensive to replace (gott'a split the cases to replace the bearings, which requires a lot of special tools, and the 066 bearings are really $pendy). So I parted it out on Ebay.

 

dont tell me, i was afraid of that. looks like bearing set with seals is about $35. any idea what sort of tools are needed to split case? or is this something i shouldnt even think about getting into? gonna look into it better before i start ordering parts...
looks like about $25 for each of clutch assembly, chain brake, and oiler. and $40 for muffler. if i need anything more than that i guess i will have to look at other options that i cant afford, lol.
does everything for the oil pump come right out after i get that spider off?

 

so i can probably make a tool like this:


and if i damage the case i could just get this new one which comes with some other parts i should probably replace.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-MS660...806?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c105aa56

i should also see what compression i am pushing.
am i entering the realm of which i should just be looking into just buying a new saw?

 

That is a chineese crankcase, and it would be questionable on how long it would last.

I just installed a chineese handle and plastic on a 650 i am rebuilding but i would think hard about useing a chineese crank? I may do it if it was me, but just to see if i got 6 months 6 weeks or 6 years out of it.

 

if i dont get the chiner parts i think ill be looking at a new saw...

 

yep, bearings are shot.
what saws have compatable parts to my 066? 044? 441? 461? 660?

 

066, i beleive 064, 660, 650, the only diff in a 650 and 660 is the jug and piston is larger on the latter. The 066 is the same as a 660 and the 064 is similar in most stuff but your on your own with that reasearch, but im sure others including stihl head know exactly.

 

thoughts on this? i have most of the parts it needs except for chain brake. what you think its worth?

Needs a few parts to be completed.This saw has excellent compression. It has a custom dual port muffler with a modified expansion chamber and a re-tuned carb. The saw is almost complete except for a few parts and nuts and bolts. It needs a handle,clutch cover, chain brake assembly and is 2 missing side cover bolts and 2 muffler bolts.

 

Looks good. Is the P/C good or u gettingit for the parts? Or will u swap ur PC on if its busted as is? What they want for it? Looks decent. But still gonna be about $89 of stuff their buying china parts.

 

Well, to answer some of your questions, to split the cases on a Stihl takes a lot more tools and parts than that. Also OEM bearings/seals are a lot more than $35. The clutch side bearing alone was $50 when I was looking at replacing it. I would not use Chicom parts for that (likely fail from low tolerances). The bearings that you have on your 066 are dependent on the year of the saw. There were 2 types of clutch side bearings. The flywheel side are all the same. The 066 and 660 are similar, but the cases/bearing with the AL flywheel are not interchangeable with the cases/bearing with the poly flywheel. The 064 shares a lot of parts. You would have to compare your saw to the IPL and check the dates.

For a study on how to split 066 cases and pop out and press in new bearings, Andy put together a detailed thread over on AS a long time ago (if AS is up? It is bouncing to another web site on me there again). Google 'lakeside53 splitting crank cases 066' and it should be the first thing that pops up. If the site is up you can read through the posts. Andy does an excellent job in detailing all the stuff required to split cases and do bearing replacements.

As for the 066 from Canada on Ebay, shipping is expensive, and I would ask about the bearings before bidding. O/w it might be worth it if it is not bid up sky high. I paid $300 for my first 066, complete with a 32 inch B&C. It did not last long before blowing out the clutch side bearing though. I think the previous owner kept the chain way to tight on it. As an aside, I have seen far more 066 bearings fry than 044, but the 044 has a reputation for blowing out bearings. My 044 is old, but the bearings are still drum tight.

 

Guy said good compression but didnt take it apart to check bearings. Bid on ebay was $305 or 355 plus $60 shipping.
I will look at andys writeup.
My oiler gear was stripped. Cylinder looks fine. Here is the piston.