I'm shopping for a new tractor, and I think getting one or two hydraulic remotes would be a good move. Problem is, I don't have any equipment that need them now, so I don't what valves to get-float, detent, or double acting (I think I have the terms correct.) Potential implements I may acquire that I need hydraulics for- 1. A grapple 2. A front blade-I know that for these attachments I should use a front remote, but could use a hose from the rear. 3. Raising and lowering a rear implement-trailer type disc, etc. 4. Hydraulic feed on a wood chipper. 5. Possible top and tilt-won't be buying the cylinders now-see if I would use them very often. 6. Maybe an angle on a back blade. This is new territory for me-I've never had a tractor that would be big enough to consider using remotes before. I think I could get the remotes for better price if I get them with the tractor, but I don't want to buy if I don't know what I should get. I will discuss with the dealer, but I like to have an idea before I shop. Thanks for reading, and letting me pick your brains.
You can get float, detent, and double acting all in one valve although not everyone supplies them. Double acting with detent is pretty well standard since the 1960s. Double acting means you have power each way instead of a gravity drop. Lots of stuff just won't work without it. Detents hold the valve open until the ram reaches the end of the stroke. Handy at field ends where you push the lever and then have both hands free for steering or other controls. You'd want a detent for a hydraulic feed. A float will cost more, but it's handy for light dozing or discing when you just want to knock off the high spots
Thanks for reply-makes a lot of sense to me. I think double acting with detent is the way to go. I have used many farm tractors with remotes-raise a disc or a rake up and let it down-and we have a detent valve on our wood splitter. Just wasn't sure of terminology.
I believe for Kubota, the float function detent is standard, as well as speed dump. When i bought new, i had them add the third function kit up front, which a button is integrated on the FEL control-a nice setup. Rear remotes would be nice for the backhoe thumb add-on, plus other things like you mentioned. Watching thread......
We have a small part time farm and have had several 50 hp tractors over the years, all with a single set of rear remotes. I can’t remember ever “needing” a second set. Not to say two aren’t ever needed, but seldom necessary with smaller equipment. (Some fancy snowblowers take two, the tilt and angle blades, the raise and angle hay mowers, etc) For the grapple we run long lines from the rear remotes to the front of the loader. If I were to spend the extra money, I would want them to be hard lines, permanently attached, and not tying up the rear remotes. Edit: I did see a 3pt lift arm that was hydraulic and pretty slick in conjunction with a flail mower. But I’m pretty cheap and am very happy with just one set.
What kind of tractor are talking about here? Size specifically.... like Sub-compact (Kubota BX) or utility tractor? (Kubota M-series). Something in between? It’s very easy to go overboard and spend a bunch o money on remotes and diverter kits for every contingency. 1. grapple 2. Front blade Many do in fact just plumb the loader up to plug into a rear remote. It’s the lowest cost option for sure. But you know what doesn’t have three arms and looks like he’s got an itch he can’t reach? You, trying to operate the loader and grapple at the same time. Assuming the loader AND the hyd controls are both on the right side, as most are. A real third function valve kit is a must IMO for a grapple. The blade, not so much. And a third function kit can be used to operate a rear implement too. 3. Basic raising and lowering tasks, usually a single rear remote will do, but this is one reason I asked what size tractor you are considering. 4. Hyd feed chippers, log splitters, backhoes and similar. These are not ideally powered by a remote SCV. They are constant flow applications and are best served by a Power Beyond Kit. Which has no valve, and you just plug a short hose into the return line when no implement is hooked up. Some of those hyd feed chippers have self-contained hyd systems too, powered via the PTO. If you have a tractor with enough flow available from the Implement pump (careful as some brands advertise total flow, which is a combination of the steering and implement pumps!) I highly recommend an PBK. Usually inexpensive too. 5. Top and tilt, usually big $$$$ to do a real T&T setup. You can of course rig up you own cylinders to a pair of rear remotes. A “proper” setup on a compact tractor is usually a diverter valve kit that lets you control a pair of rear remotes with the loader valves. Utility tractors usually have a lot more for mid and rear hydraulic options so dual rears and dual mids are usually do-able, albeit pricey. 6. Back blade angle, obviously a single rear remote will work, but you could always rob power from the loader bucket dump circuit for infrequent use. (Works for that front blade too! )
I wouldn't use a remote to run an attachment on the front, get a 3rd function for that. If you are looking at Kubota's, your first remote has to be a standard remote, then your second remote can have the float. The remote with float is the same as the first remote, except you push it all the way forward to the detent to lock in float similar to a loader. A float valve can be used for anything the standard valve can be used for. The good thing about getting remote when you get your tractor, is usually the dealer will put them on for free. The bad thing is if you get them and never use them, it was a waste of money although it does add some value if you ever sell the tractor.
Deere’s diverter was fun, using the loader stick to angle the hitch. But expensive as all hell, only ever sold one or two of them.
Ok, now things are making some more sense. I am deciding between a L3901 and a L3560. It's looking like the front 3rd function kit and a rear remote should cover about anything I would probably need-probably the highest likelihood of buying a grapple or front plow first-and can sure see how the 3rd function kit would be the way to go. 94Bullitt-that's exactly why I'm thinking about buying them now-should be able to get a better deal-you have some power before you sign that sales contract!! I'm not sure if I will use them, but I expect this tractor will last me indefinitely, and I've learned my lesson about not "going the extra inch when you have went the full mile already!!"
My TYM has a set of rear remotes and I added a 3rd function kit to the front for a future grapple. The loader joystick has a thumb switch. Better than running the hoses from the back to the front.
I'd go with the 3560. It is a heavier tractor and you can get loader with more lift capacity. The 3 point hitch also lifts more. The auto throttle advance is a nice feature, I leave it on all the time on the L4240. The best thing about the grand l is the dual speed hydro. It may not seem like much driving it around the dealers lot but it is an awesome feature. You can be in high side of Medium range and run up to a dirt pile the drop it into the low side with out changing ranges. Then with a grand l you gain the little things like a rubber floor mat, telescopic lift arms and stabilzers. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
A hydraulic top link is soooo handy for all of my rear attachments that it never come's off the tractor making a 2nd pair a must for me. I have 3 pairs on the rear and could use 2 more if they offered it. If there is a big savings working it into the "deal", I'd make sure that I had the 2nd pair. As you know, we'll be expecting pictures upon delivery
I use the 3rd scv on my tractor to operate the grapple and when i i need to use my hydraulic top link, i plug it in there. So far, i have not needed the grapple and hydraulic top link at the same time. I dont have any other uses for the 3rd scv yet. Edit: like others have said, its a little button on the loader joystick. Can be used simultaneously with the loader (you can be lifting and closing the grapple at the same time).
