In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Englander NC30 deal .....ordered

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by papadave, Mar 12, 2014.

  1. papadave

    papadave

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    Woody, yep, I did some of that last year when I went around all of the outside wall outlets and sealed 'em with caulk.
    What really needs to happen goes deeper, and requires the outer walls to be taken down to studs, sealed, then re-insulated.
    I've done that in the M. bedroom, and now the stove room.
    The attic also needs more sealing (did some of that last year too), and a bunch of insulation. Working on that, and again, the two rooms mentioned have been done.
    The house holds temp better, and gets there a little quicker, even in this cold winter, but still won't hold heat well enough for me.
    It's working, but there remains a long tough row to hoe. I'll keep plugging away at it.
    The Maple is no match for Oak, but I like it better now that I've used it more. Dries quick, and it's plentiful around here.
    One of these days, I want to try Ash.
     
  2. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I forgot the pic. Been really sick the last few days. Got home yesterday and laid down for almost 2 hours.

    Will try and get it today. Sorry.
     
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  3. papadave

    papadave

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    Don't worry about it until you feel better. I can wait.
     
  4. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I may shorten the Wood stove OAK outside. I didn't cut it to length. Just left it in the 3 ft factory length.

    The Pellet furnace, I flush cut. But both of them use a Vertical gas termination cap (hot water heater) and I used it in a horizontal position. Then I bent it on an angle so no snow or water can really be sucked in. Also, cut some Gutter Guard and used 3 screws to make a rodent screen.

    Long wood stove OAK inlet.. :(

    20140324_170611.jpg 20140324_170648.jpg
    And here is the Pellet furnace that is almost flush with the house, but the cap is still bent so water/snow doesn't get in.

    20140324_170758.jpg
     
  5. papadave

    papadave

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    Ok Dex, got it.
    Thanks for the pics. I'm wondering why you didn't just put an elbow on before attaching the cap?
    If I do this, the penetration will be a little over 12" off the ground and no snow stays against the block for very long. Too much heat escaping for it to stick around, so snow shouldn't be an issue.
    Rain might be, so the cap is a good idea.
    The kit from ESW has what they call a rain/snow "hood", but their pics don't show it well.
    HD sell the Gutter Guard?
     
  6. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Yeah. I can send a 3" or 4" piece with the gloves? You just have to bend and find a way to affix it.

    They only sell like a bundle. No single pieces.
     
  7. papadave

    papadave

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    Nah, no need for that. I think I have something here I can use, or I'll find something.
    No big deal. Still contemplating putting a hole in the wall.
    I have enough leaks there already.:rofl: :lol:
     
  8. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Roger that..
     
  9. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    Here's some big splits for you Dave.

    IMG_20140324_235115_621~01.jpg
    Last nights load.
     
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  10. papadave

    papadave

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    Uh, Uh.......
    Yeah, that ain't happenin'.
    Wow.
    I prefer to use splits I can actually pick up.:rofl: :lol:
     
  11. Chvymn99

    Chvymn99 Moderator

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    I hear you on that. I know I'm now making two or 2 1/2 arm loads for the NC30 vs. 1 or less arm loads for the NC13 prior to December. I've still got a couple more years of smaller splits to go through before I start hitting the consistantly bigger wood. Thankfully, about 2 years ago, I started increasing the size of my splits in anticipation for the new stove.
     
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  12. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    I get that, the boss has been complaining about the split selection of the last load I've brought to the house. Says I need to have my head examined.:whistle:
     
  13. papadave

    papadave

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    Been cutting everything and building the hearth and changing out the whole flue system for the new stove. This has been going on for over 4 years, a little at a time.:)
     
  14. Woody Stover

    Woody Stover

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    Those smaller splits come in handy, too, so I'd either save some, or make some from the wood you're splitting now.
     
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  15. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Get her loaded up good tonight dave is going to get cold :firepit:
     
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  16. papadave

    papadave

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    Yep, did an e/w load at 10:30 with 1 big (not like above) Oak round, 3 smaller Oak rounds, and a couple medium-large splits. All I could fit.
    Turned on the DV heater, and woke @ 7:30 to the house at 64. Stove was at 300.
    I need to find a better method. I watched the fire for over an hour. With one of the doghouse holes closed, the air coming in from the 2nd hole was still blowing a hole through the wood almost all the way to the back of the stove. I hate to completely close those, since they really help to establish a fire. Need a way to adjust those, or find a compromise opening size.
    I had completely closed the air before going to bed.
    The 2ndaries were real nice after just a few minutes though. They were still going when I went to bed.
     
  17. BrowningBAR

    BrowningBAR

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    I feel your pain. This has more to do with your insulation and drafts than it does about the stove. A 3.5 cu ft stove sitting at 300 degrees should be able to maintain your home temps above 64 degrees. Mine can't, and that is because of insulation and leak issues. With the blower, it does keep the stove room at or above 70 throughout the winter, but it is not responsible for a lot of square footage.

    Return the hairdryer and get a blower working. I know I said this a lot, but this is the most effective way to improve the stoves performance.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2014
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  18. papadave

    papadave

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    Once I opened the air back up, the stove went to 350 and stayed there for a long time.
    Close to 2 hours.
    It got cold last night....at least -5°.
    I'm still not liking the amount of wood being burned through by that doghouse air, even with one hole blocked.
    My thought is that if I blocked most of that, and left the primary open just a touch more, I might get a bit longer burn.
    I put one split in e/w about an hour ago to get rid of some coals, and the exhaust was clear. Nice.
    The Ashley would have been blowing some blue smoke.
    No problem getting the fire going, controlling it, getting 2ndary burn.......just that darn doghouse.
    With just a little coal bed at times, the fire takes right off on a reload. I've not had to use much paper or firestarter.
     
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  19. papadave

    papadave

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    Another thing....I've used the ash pan twice so far, and I think it keeps a lot of the ash dust contained.
    Still messing with that.
    It's not easy to separate the small coals from the ash while dumping into the pan, but it's not as bad as I thought.
    Doesn't seem to be as much dust in the house.
    I got a gift card recently, and have an ash rake on the way......should be here no later than Friday. :) Reviews say it's a bit of a lightweight, but I don't plan to abuse it.
    Less than $13, so even if it doesn't last forever, I'm not out much.
    One of our guys on here with a forge should make these things and sell 'em.:thumbs: I'd buy one.
    BBar, I've got to say that I really appreciate your thoughts, suggestions , and continuing posts. Same goes for everyone else who's following along and posting.
    Ok, I put my Nancy hat away.:D
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2014
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  20. fishingpol

    fishingpol

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    I know a guy that has a design already worked up. Just waiting for spring to show up to light the forge. :mad: