In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

New Ideal Steel install, one month in..

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Chaz, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. Matt Fine

    Matt Fine

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    If you are worried about running out of wood, can you get a pallet of compressed wood bricks? I bought a pallet of Fiber Fuel after reading about them here and have been burning mostly bricks for the last month or so. They were a bit more expensive than wood but they also can burn longer if you cram enough in. Like over 24 hours long. I will buy more to use for when I want long burn times, but they are also a better choice to stretch your supply than burning splits that are not fully seasoned yet.
     
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  2. Chaz

    Chaz

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    I've really thought about them. Some people here seem to like them quite a bit.
    I do not have a 3 yr plan yet.. :rofl: :lol:
    Sometimes it's just enough to decide what's for dinner.

    But, I am working towards a solution to that problem also.

    More to come on that in a different thread..

    Chaz
     
  3. Matt Fine

    Matt Fine

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    If I could get bricks at the same cost as wood or less, I would use them as my main fuel source. I find them easy to load, easy to light and predictable. Real wood makes a better looking display and around here is somewhat more economical. The bricks are still cheaper than the furnace and boiler, so if I was in a pinch or just starting a 3 year plan I would definitely buy a pallet or two.
     
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  4. Rearscreen

    Rearscreen

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    Ya gotta love that UF Romex rubbing up against the metal pipe.
     
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  5. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    Chaz, something I learned about this stove.. Trying to word it clearly.. In shoulder season, where you probably be this week. Works best to fill it full right before bed.. Shut it down.. You get more secondaries this way and less of your back puffs because there is more fuel so less all igniting at once.. Your home will need more heat at nite anyway.. This stove will do 24 hours burns on full good dry fuel.. In morning if you need heat open air, add wood if temps require it.. Opening air generally raises my STT almost 100 degrees.. And burns down coals.. This stove in my setup gives more heat with less wood if you fill it dial it down and leave it alone for at least 6 hours..
     
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  6. Chaz

    Chaz

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    You're not supposed to notice that.:whistle:

    edit..
    It's only slightly better than it was. When we bought the house, it was all wadded up on the ground outside. I figured it was dead wire. My bolt cutters tend to disagree.:bug:

    I wired in the outside light 2 years ago, meant to staple it all in, then realized I'd gone under the chimney. Laziness ensued.. and well ya know.:doh:
     
  7. stumplifter

    stumplifter

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    Interesting...
    I noticed at work the other day they have some chunks of compressed wood blocks used for transporting conveyor belts.

    They are similar to a particle board construction about 8" square, I do not know what they used for a binder but wondered if they would be safe to use in a woodstove?
     
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  8. Chaz

    Chaz

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    Not knowing would bother me.
    Free does not always = good

    As stated previously, advice is free. Taking it may cost.
    I would tend to stay away from them for the 'unknown' reasons, but that's me.

    Chaz
     
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  9. Matt Fine

    Matt Fine

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    Yeah, I would avoid burning “unknown” in a cat stove unless you have a supply of free replacement cats.
     
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  10. Highbeam

    Highbeam

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    Unknowns can also be nasty chemicals causing corrosion of the stove and chimney. Plus the emissions of various poisons in the smoke into your neighborhood.

    I don't use anything but firewood and propane torch in my cat stove. Even pallet wood has unknown chemical treatments and nails coated in cat killing zinc.
     
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  11. stumplifter

    stumplifter

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    Appreciate the quick responses and rather obvious decision for me is to leave it alone!

    Thanks all!
     
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  12. Suburban wood snob

    Suburban wood snob

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    Start with a one year plan. There's plenty of wood...pine, cedar, Ash, silver maple, box elder,etc that will season just fine if split in spring for next winter. Get ahead the frst year, and the you can start banking stuff like oak, locust and elm that needs two years minimum unless you split it really thin.
     
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  13. Chaz

    Chaz

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    Thx WoodSnob.. I appreciate the advice.

    I still have some left of the tri-axle we got 2 years ago, I have to finish that up before I worry about other stuff.

    I also have Ash and Maple on the property that needs to be taken care of.. wind damaged/broken trees. I'm not that experienced at felling those, but pretty keen on keeping my silly a$$ alive.

    Will be talking with my best friends' father in law who is doing a lot of harvesting of late.
    He has a LOT of oak from what I remember, and if I can get a cord or so aging.. more's the better.

    Looking into building a solar kiln which would help dry the wood much faster.

    Also looking to make a 'table' system to load/cut the logs in a more timely/efficient manner.
    That will be the subject of an upcoming thread that I will be looking for input on.

    Thx
    Chaz
     
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