The good thing about those Kubota rims is that the owner can invert them and get a much wider stance without having to buy spacers. As trail twister mentions, it puts undo stress upon the axle, and they are not overbuilt out of the factory. I know of a guy on another forum that asked about putting dual tires on his Kubota for more stability and many of said not to do it; he did and 2 weeks later he snapped his axles. Ouch!
If the R4 tires are 64" wide what is the difference in spacing the R1 tires out that wide? Kubota sells spacer for that tractor look on kubota.com. Yes I looked up the wheel weights on Kubota.com, $125 each. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Little Oliver tucked away in the safety of my garage. Not a tractor, but this is my wood hauling beast. 01 F350 7.3 PSD.
trail twister, I think I'd be looking for a ballast box. I use the J-D box on the 3 point when I'm using the loader..... I offered that as just an example. I have mine filled with sand and about 100 pounds of iron weights I found on an abandoned piece of workout equipment that was at the dump. If I take off the loader on my little 1025r, and leave the ballast box on, I can lift the front end off the ground by hitting a bump! The PVC tubes make for handy storage of chains and tools. Deer sells height extenders if a bigger, heavier box is needed. There are other ways to add ballast. I've seen concrete cylinders with a rod through them, home made steel boxes filled with concrete, even inexpensive made in China boxes from Titan (palletforks.com).... Plain and simple... You need weight on the back to avoid problems!! The expensive way to do it.... more ideas......... Keep a heavy bucket low when moving, add ballast to the rear (your owners manual will give you guidance)..... Avoid this!!!!!!!!
By the way, this is the J-D chart for ballast on my little tractor.... You see it recommends Filled rear tires AND 601 pounds on the 3 point!... OR, 506 pounds on the 3 point AND 3 sets of wheel weight per rear tire.... OR, 517 pounds on the 3 point AND filled tires AND 1 set of iron wheel weights!!!!!!!!!!!!! And my tractor is tiny!!!!! Ballast box on my tractor w/blower. The box isn't needed w/blower.. It's just to show you the box/tractor size....
Do you know how much the wheel weights weigh for you tractor? I'm just curious to see the comparison of weight on the rear axle VS weight behind the axle. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Bobcat recommended a 880lb ballast for my CT235 which is the same size as a L3301. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Deer sells a 72 pound "starter" weight and then you typically add 1 or 2 more 50 pound iron weights to the stack.... So, 172 pounds per wheel w/3 weights, or 122 pounds w/2 weights or 72 pounds w/1.... They also sell a 50 pound, plastic coated iron weight for use alone.... starter... 50 pound additional weights... plastic coated..... Theses are sized for the SCUTs and large garden tractors that use the 26x12-12 rear wheel/tires
If you're interested in how much weight a filled or loaded rear tire will add, here's a link to a chart using "Rim Guard". http://www.rimguard.biz/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Hydro-Flation-tables-2014-PDF.pdf
I had a set of the plastic/ concrete weights on a garden tractor. While they added traction, I hated them. They stuck out past the tire, and would get in the way. Then since it was a small tire, there was not much side wall. Sometimes the wheel weight would pick the tire up off the ground. Kubota offers the plastic coated weight for the BX, probably the same thing JD sells. I have never seen or even heard of the cast iron wheel weights for SCUT before. Those would be a better option for someone wanting to add wheel weights on a small tractor. Anyways what I was wondering was how much the wheel weight affects the rear ballast. With option 1 on your chart you need 601lbs. With the option 2, 342lbs of wheel weights, you still need 506lbs. By adding 342lbs to the wheels you need 95lbs less. All of those numbers are with 120lbs or more of fluid in the tires.
I agree, adding weight to the tires by loading them with Rim Guard, ww fluid, or if you will risk the rust... calcium chloride, or adding iron weight to the wheels is only part of ballasting a tractor.. The weight hanging off the 3 point is a much bigger help.
A ballast box properly weighted in addition to stability removes a fair amount of weight off of the front end and helps prevent damage from shock and lessons wear and tear on tires, king pins, spindles, steering ECT.
Yep, as soon as I can out before dark LOL. Gonna break her in real soon. Nice set up, full of oil & ready to work, just had to add fuel.
I have a snatchblock for my bull rope already, so I'm set there. Just gotta get out in the daylight to give it a run.
Did you attach it to the box blade? I imagine that winch will become a very handy "tool" to have around.
