Englander NC30 deal .....ordered

Didn't realize you get gold and brushed nickle looking handles. No other ornamentation.
I like that better than those strips on the front edges. I can always paint it if I want a different color, but I doubt that'll happen.

So, here's a broken brick in the front r/h side of the stove. It got painted when the inside got shot. Hmmm. Guess it wasn't his/her job to see that.

I've got quite a few extra fire brick that may fit. If not, I'll let ESW know and send a pic if they need it to get a replacement.

 

Free blower?? Sweeet! The price of a brick won't even put a dent in the money you've already saved going with the 30. [Looks like a standard 4.5 x 9" brick...about $2.50 here, but the ones you have are probably the same.]

 

Dave, there's a lot firebox there to fill. You should have heat till it's comin' out of your ars, er ah, ears. Enjoy it my friend.

 

You got a couple good pallets as well.

 

Good morning!

I talked to SEFL this morning, my stove made it into Huntsville and will go out for delivery tomorrow! Since it will be delivered in a semi-truck, I'll have to meet it one mile away on the blacktop since a semi can't make it down my one mile gravel road/driveway. A Kubota L4330 tractor with forks in place of the FEL will carry the stove down my road and back home.

Should I open up the stove and look at it while the semi truck is still there or take it back to my shop and inspect it there? Since the stove appears to be palleted and boxed, it would seem that major stove damage would be obvious from box damage. Minor stuff like a broken brick is not going to cause me to reject the shipment. LMK what you think.

Thanks,

 

Well, ESW brick are 4x9x1 1/8". Mine are 4.5x9x1 1/8". Might still fit, but it won't stop me from having fires if it doesn't.
Can't find the bolts, etc. for the legs. The leg box wasn't sealed. Hmmm.
Might be a run to the store in my immediate future.
61 cents later, and I'm gooder to go.
Turns out when you pull the pedestal, that hardware is used to install the legs.

 

The box just pulled off of mine so I could take a look.

 

Hahaha. The smoke alarm just went crazy.
I guess I'm getting it warm enough to start the curing.
Got the Ashley down, and the NC30 inside.

Got the 30 on the hearth and put the legs on........

 

Well, it took longer than expected because my brother loves to yack, and my nephew is worse.
We had coffee, and yacked for a while.
Here it is. The doublewall went up easy peasy. Just need to install the finish ring.

First fire.......that's Casper's reflection.....he was "helping".

 

This is all pine kindling from the shop.....
I have to say, I'm disappointed a bit. When I open the door (yes, I open the air), I'm getting smoke back out the door.
Minimum flue for this stove is 15' from the floor. I have about 7' inside, between 4-5' in the attic, and 7' out the roof peak......literally at the peak.
With 18-19', I didn't expect that.
Still breaking it in.
Not even close to having a full load, and the box is about 400°.
No real 2ndaries yet. Trying to get the fumes out.

 

I put 3 medium Maple splits in about 3:10 p.m., and started turning down the air a few minutes ago.
Curious how long this will run.:firepit:
I need to find the hotspot on the stove. Time for an IR test.

 

Dave, crack the door open and only open it a half inch to an inch. Keep it there for about two or three seconds for it all to equalize. You can then open the door without smoke spilling into the room.

 

Once you open the primary air and evacuate the smoke from the box, you close the air again as you open the door, correct?

 

You're not getting an Isle Royale just because of a little smoke from the 30, are you?

 

Nothing on the stovetop is higher than about 350° so far.
I have to say though, the brick behind the pipe is cool and so is the brick behind the stove. It was running about 150-160 before the changeout.
That may change once the stove gets hotter. Just checked outside again, and nothing but a heat sig.
It was smoking pretty good earlier on the kindling.

 

Woody, why would I do that?
I've been opening air, then opening the door slowly.
IR= IR thermometer. Sorry I didn't add that part. I know you get confuzzled easily....or maybe that's me. Hmmm.

 

Hmmm, that didn't work.

 

Dave, imo it's pretty common to get some spillage when there is an active flame with an EPA stove, the smoke path around the baffle brings the smoke towards the door.(EPA stove with a bypass are better in this regard..Lopi uses one) When you're loading in batches you won't get smoke from the coals.

Let the learning begin!

 

Yep, I thought about that after I posted.
I'm trying to get the paint cured before the overnight burn.
Seems to be working. I put 6 small splits of Oak in at 6:00. Got the air WAAAAYYY down, and I'm getting some 2ndary burn, but not much coming out of the tubes.
No biggie.
One downside.....I've burned fingers on both hands already. Not used to the handle position, and I've found myself grabbing at the inside handle piece.
That gets pretty hot when the stove is burning. I have no explanation for this behavior.
Good thing I have leftover Thermazene.

 

Dave, EPA stoves like big hot fires. The flue temp getting up around 6-800° and the stovetop 5-600° makes the best situation for the secondaries to work well. That's when you start cutting back the air to get the secondaries to light up. Back it down in stages until you get it all figured out for the best burn. The secondaries only will burn for an hour or two until everything is no longer throwing off smoke. You'll get the hang of it. They can be a little finicky, but you'll definitely get a better burn than before.

One side note, the stove top temp really climbs when the air starts to get cut back. Once you get the flue probe set up you will understand what I'm saying.