Excessive draft - damper on rear exit install??

Hi guys - do y'all know if I have room to install a damper on my rear exit install? See picture below. My stove seems to draft big time and my burn times are quite short in my jotul f55. I can chew through a full load in 3 hours easy with the air shut almost all the way down. I've seen dampers on installs with vertical only pipe but not sure I've seen it with an install like mine. Thoughts??

 

Looks pretty tight for a damper but I would buy one as they aren't too expensive. Then you could take the pipes apart and hold the plate inside to see if you have enough room. I know myself, if I couldn't do something to get an overnight burn, stove would go bye,bye.

 

You can get a damper without a pipe and install it in that short connector piece. You need enough room for it to open which you have, and just enough space to put in the axel.

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It should fit. My only thought is that it needs to clear any screws securing the pipe and collar.

I had a plate damper in the t snout when I had the Jotul F3 rear vented, and now have one above the reversible collar on the Castine.

It absolutely makes a difference for my stove. I'm not sure how old your stove is, but maybe check the gaskets and see if air is leaking by.

 

I have little clearance above my stove to the lintel. I ended up forging a longer handle with a lever end for the damper so it sticks out past the bricks.

 

Don't forget to look for other air leaks around the doors and other openings. Too much draft when the stove air is shut down usually means a gasket has been compromised.

 

The problem is being described as too much airflow through the secondaries. If leaks were letting air in elsewhere, they would reduce the draft through the secondaries.

The solutions from my point of view would be either to add a damper to the 6 intakes or to the flue. Either one can restrict the flow rate through the stove.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. Stove is 3 months old....door gasket passes the dollar bill test. Perhaps another gasket is leaky (top plate or baffle maybe).

How realistic is it to still see flames at say hour 5 or 6 in a 3 c.f. tube stove? Is that strictly going to be coaling at that part of the burn?

 

What do you mean by "6 intakes"? Thanks

 

That is going to depend on the wood and how hot the stove is running.

 

Oooops wrong thread!

 

Sooo. Why not try closing the primary entirely first. If its anything like my EPA non cat it may get waaaay plenty just from the primary and secondary supply. Even when control is closed. Guessing that stove gets a constant secondary supply to meet emissions. Tough on burn times. I restricted the secondary as well as the primary to slow mine down. It worked well. Not that I am recommending anything like that

 

I'll still have some flame at that point, but it's not much as most of the wood is then down to coals.

 

What kind of stove temps are you seeing and is the secondary burn stupid crazy?
On the 30, once the air is down about 3/4, the adjustments are very minor to change air flow and burn. I might adjust the air several times to get it where I want it.
If/when I get up about 4 AM, I'll open the air some before going back to bed and still have coals left in the morning.

 

I'll get to as high as 600-700 but then at hour 4 I'm already dipping down below 300 degrees. What temps do you see in the 30 at hour 4 and on?

 

You can always move you stove out away from the wall another 4-5 inches, no? If the damper doesn't fit in that short piece, try moving the stove.

 

Yeah the secondary supply is constant with no adjustment available. I'll give the early shut down a try. I've shut down early before but not for more than a few minutes before ramping back up to get a flame going again.

 

That's a good idea... I like it close to the wall but a few inches couldn't hurt eh.

 

I don't really keep track of the temps anymore, but I'm probably a little higher than that.
How tall is the flue?

 

23ft ish