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Wood moisture readings

Discussion in 'The Wood Pile' started by WeldrDave, Jan 20, 2018.

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  1. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    This is mainly for the new folks for just an FYI. :) I just came in from loading my "two week rack" which holds about 1/3 cord and the wood I'm loading in is 4 years old so I decided to grad my moisture meter and give a peek. As you can see, I checked some Cherry, Maple, and a piece of Hickory and all were below 10%. As many on this site say, and it holds so true about seasoned wood you can't get much better than this moisture content. If you have the ability to give yourself 3 years in advance your burning seasone will/should go trouble free.

    *NOTE* I do not cover my wood while seasoning, it stays exposed to the elements till it's ready to go into the burning shed. Then it's only covered from snow and rain so it's dry coming into the house. Air flow is the big key in seasoning. DSCN2859.JPG DSCN2860.JPG DSCN2862.JPG DSCN2863.JPG
     
  2. Babaganoosh

    Babaganoosh

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    Cmon now. Do it right.

    Bring a few pieces inside. Let them warm up to rooms temperature and then split them. Measure the freshly exposed face. That's the real reading.
     
  3. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Ok, No Problem. I have some in..... More to follow! :p
     
  4. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    OK, Just took a piece of Maple that had been in the house since yesterday, "room temp". Took it out and split it, here are the "TRUE" moisture readings. This is from the exact same pile I just pulled the other wood from.
    I really jammed it in to try and get the most accurate reading. Babaganoosh, you are correct and "I" stand corrected! I posted the lowest and the highest readings I got. Point noted! DSCN2871.JPG DSCN2869.JPG DSCN2867.JPG DSCN2868.JPG DSCN2870.JPG
     
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  5. MO. Wood

    MO. Wood

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    That's good advice for the new members. I've been burning about 12 years now. Even though my wood was always seasoned around 2 years, I never heard of the 3 year plan until I joined the site. Every bit of info helps with the learning process and safety. Well done to all members!!
     
  6. MightyWhitey

    MightyWhitey

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    I've typed it numerous times; and I'm only rehashing what Mr. BackwoodsSavage has been harping on for years......................the best moisture meter is to get 3+ years ahead on your CSSed wood.
     
  7. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    That is still a pretty low reading. I would say nice and dry. I have the same meter. I like the fact you showed the difference between sticking it in the end and then splitting it.
     
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  8. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    That is true but once in awhile you may get some wood that you may not know the history on and a MM is a nice place to start to find out if it is dry or not.
     
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  9. dotman17

    dotman17

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    Meh. My softwoods cure in 9 months. Depends on wood and climate.
     
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  10. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    True. We are a realitivly hot summer climate here 80º+ all the time in the summer and not a whole lot of rain. My softest thing I burn is Maple and I won't even consider it till year 2. That piece of Maple in the pic is 4 years old. I have some Cherry that's 5 years old that I'll be burning next month. My stash for winter, 2018 and 2019 is 3 and 4 year old Oak and Hickory. I can get enough Maple to build an ark after any good nor-easter here.
     
  11. dotman17

    dotman17

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    Oh I agree with you, Dave. More seasoned, the better!
     
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  12. Babaganoosh

    Babaganoosh

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    Nice! That's some nice dry stuff. I'm in NJ too. I've got a bunch of oak and man I'd rather have maple. Maple is great in 2 years. Oak is passable. Oak really shines after 3 years.
     
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  13. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    But there are still many good reasons to get on the 3 year plan. Many mistake the plan is just for making sure the wood is dry but that is not true at all.
     
  14. Horkn

    Horkn

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    Ahh, that's more like it. Still. Time after split and stacked is the key to let MC for great burning.

    To that I'll still reply that the only moisture meter, is a moisture meter. If you let wood season for 3 years after split and stacked, is more than likely ready to burn after that. But, you won't know what the moisture content is. Not unless you stick a MM into it. It's a highly educated guess, but you really don't know what the actual MC is unless you break out a MM.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
  15. MightyWhitey

    MightyWhitey

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    And to that^^^; I'll add this.......................if your CSSed wood is 3+ years old...................you don't, IMNTBHO, need a moisture meter!!!!:cool:
     
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  16. Horkn

    Horkn

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    Mostly true. But.... Not always. My buddy has 3yr css top covered red oak, and it's not under 20% MC yet. I re split a few splits and measured 21-24% MC, on my moisture meter.

    He tried to burn some and it's still a sizzlin'.

    I'll be trading him dead standing ash for his 3 yr seasoned red oak.
     
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  17. dotman17

    dotman17

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    You know, it'd be nice if we all could do things proper and get maximum efficiency out of everything we do. But sometimes I don't have the luxury or patience for these things so I accept the tradeoffs. My goal is to keep my home warm respectably at a decent price. It's not to burn wood at its ideal moisture content. It in fact is better to let it dry longer but if all I have is wood that is slightly wet then that's all I got -- and I'm going to burn it when it can be burned -- not when it would be minimally wet. You give me wood at 12%, it's going in the firebox. Just sayin'.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
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  18. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Problem right there.
     
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  19. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Horkn, I've never covered my wood until it went into the winter shed. Even there it only has a basic roof over it's head so it can still season while it's in the shed. Tarps, plastic and canvas only hold moisture in and alot has to do woth sun exposure, wind, air movenent around the piles, Piles being to big or densly stacked so they can't dry throughly etc. I have red oak that is 3 and 4 year old ready to go. The more exposure your wood has the quicker it will dry. Now, my climate is a little different then Wisconsins but on ly by winter's standards, I've been out there many times in 90º heat for a couple weeks. :dennis: I am very familiar with Wisconsin.
    Over the years, I have learned that "covering" wood is actually the worst thing you can do for it. Now that means not in a wood shed, but with the other items, plastic, tarps, etc... I think what Dennis and many others are saying about the 3 year plan is that; In that time span it's safe enough to burn without having to worry about the issues of burning "wet" wood!
     
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  20. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    I hear you loud and clear! :yes: I was away for many years serving in Uncle Sam's canoe fleet and I would even take leave to cut wood. I learned that if there was wood to get, I dropped what I was doing and went. I was the epitome of a hoarder, stopping on the side of the road, picking up scraps, dumpster diving in contractors throw aways for kindling cut offs etc. My savior here where I live is "storms"! Yes, I usually get two or three big maples a year that go over in Nor-easters and I can count on them usually ever year. I'm burning wood right now from Hurricane Sandy. o_O Lucky for me I helped clear some land three years back and took down an oak at a friends so I'm "stacked" with oak and hickory till 2020. :D I usually plan for a 4 to 5 cord winter, if not, so be it. After this wood I have in the shed is done, I'm sitting on about 10 to 12 cord of dry for next two years. If I don't have 15 cord sitting the yard I get a little weird:loco: :crazy::whistle: and start the hunt. My other issue is that's "all" I can fit comfortably in my yard with out being able to move, I don't have a big lot.
     
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