More Bar Talk

My wood gathering model has changed and I am now dealing with much larger diameter logs. Until now, my setup has been 20" on the 71 and 24" on the 95 but just about all the big stuff was usually blocked by the tree services so that it could be picked up/slid into the trailer. Now logs are being dropped off. In the first couple loads, about 10% could be reasonably cut with the 20 and maybe another 25% with the 24. I borrowed my buddy's 28 and that probably gets me up to 60 or 70% before I have to do the gymnastics or cut from both sides more than just the quick little cut offs.

My guess is that most of these guys are doing firewood on the side and I am just going to be getting the big stuff. I'm not looking to set up for production just my 8 cord a year without a lot of hassle. How would you guys set up for this? 20/28? 24/32? 24/36? My saws are both stock and the logs are dropped on a relatively flat open area.

 

24 inch full comp, 36 inch skip is what I would try first. Jmho.

 

Swap the 24 to the 71 and get a 32-36 set up for the 95 I’ve got a 20,24,28,36 and it covers most anything. I got into a pile of 50” silver maple a few years ago and I used the 36 for most all of it even down to 12” stuff. Plus the bigger saw it’s mounted on is nice for noodling

 

Yeah the 24 made the jump to the 71 already. I dont love it when using all of it but it works. So, if you didnt have all the saws you have so that all your bars have a home, do you think you would ever swap the 28 and 36 depending on what you are cutting? I guess what I am getting at is how much of a penalty is there if I put a 36 on the 95 and 2/3 of the time a 28 would have done the job?

 

Mainly just the extra time in sharpening. Your bucking in a lot not packing it through the woods.

 

Bit of balance issues too. A 36 on there is very bar heavy and awkward to handle.

I found myself in this situation a while back. I started getting into craiglist finds that were very large. Longest I had was 2 24" on my 394.

I managed BUT, on the very largest sometimes the cuts wouldn't line up perfect etc. So I found a deal on a 36". Comes in very handy! One cut and done.


But until you mount it up, you don't realize how bar heavy and a pain it it to wield. I'd say a 28 or 32 would be perfect.

 

I’d say the biggest factor like everyone has said so far is weight and balance. It’s hard to determine until you get it in your hands and spend the day with it. Another thing to consider is your own height .vs. bar length. I’m roughly 6’ 3” with boots on and have always favored a 20” saw over the 16” that a lot of people like just for the extra reach not having to bend down so far. So you may favor one over someone else’s favorite too.
As far as sharpening I’d go full skip in the 28” plus range just to make sharpening time shorter. Try searching out some used bars and go that route maybe then your not out as much if you hate it.....

 

Forgot to add... Nice saws!!!

 

Great point. I picked up an almost new 42" Oregon b/c from Cole for $100.

 

So what your saying is you are roughly 7’ 5” tall?

 

Lol, both the same saw. When I started milling, I went with the high top filter because it seals better. Only time I get to buck with a 42 is at gtg's usually. Very rare to find cl wood that large that isn't cut down.
2094 should turn semi skip on a 32 easily, 28 I'd do full comp for speed. My stock 94 laughs at full comp 24 w/ an 8 pin.

 

I had to argue with my dealer to get a 16” on my 359, but over the past 10 years or so have had only a couple of trees too big to cut. I’m spoiled by having no yard or fence line trees to drop - everything is coming from deeper in the woods and is pole sized. For me it was more a safety decision. I’ve run longer bars, but do not miss them.

 

Ha! I had to argue with my dealer to get an 18" on my CS-490. Said the 18 was too much for that saw and I would want the 16. He finally relented when I told him I only wanted it so I didn't have to bend down as far when doing ground work.

 

This LOL. 36" Bar is great with skip chain when you need it, & a bit heavy when you don't. I'd look for used as mentioned to save a bit.

 

I'd just cut through one side then roll the log with a cant hook and cut the other side. You will keep your saws out of the dirt and you won't need a big bar this way.

 

What if it's this big and you can't roll it?

 

I'd just saw through both sides. If you are careful you can feel when the saw goes through the log and not cut into the ground.

 

Just move it with the tractor.

 

I don't have one.

 

Have to use the scooter then.