So after loading up the stove last night, I went to snug down the door handle and it slipped past the latch and spun all the way round. After re tightening a little less firmly I could see the tiniest bit of light coming through the gasket from the flames on the very top of the door. I was able to secure the door to my satisfaction and let the stove burn out overnight. I had tested the gasket a few months ago and it seemed fine and I assumed I would make it the rest of the way through this season. This is the second year for this stove. So I'm off to the local stove shop for some 5/8 rope gasket and cement. I've never replaced a gasket before. Are there any tricks or things to watch out for other than the standard directions?
I haven't done it on a NC30 but typically it is straightforward. I use one of those metal brushes that look like a toothbrush to clean out the channel. Try to take the old gasket out in one piece so you can cut the new one to the same size. The hardest part is always getting the gasket adhesive out of the tube so spend some time working it while it is in the tube. Exepct the door to be tight/snug to close for about a week after.
I don't have mine yet, but make sure to clean all the old gasket and glue/sealant out of the gasket channel. Nope, you missed some.....get back in there and get it all. We'll wait. Use a wet rag and wipe channel. Follow directions if the new comes in a package. Don't know if the stuff you're getting is the same used by ESW. For a while, I was changing my door gasket every year. Didn't change it this year until midseason after I noticed the gasket wasn't really compressing anymore. 10 bucks/year is minor to assure a good seal, and I'm....uh, frugal.
I used a wire wheel on my cordless drill to clean the channel. Word of caution, do it outside. It'll get very dusty and you probably shouldn't breath the stuff. Wire brush might be better.
Another thing I started doing is leaving the door a little loose when the stove is not in service (summer). I don't have hard data but it must add some time to the life of the gasket. The last one I replaced had 2.5 hard years and it still looked pretty good.
Wire brush 3" in electric drill to clean gasket channel, wipe channel down with acetone or similar use high temp siilicon sealant in channel lay in gasket rope do not stretch it out, follow directions as to which corner to meet ends up on cut excess off, close and lock door tight let sit for 24-36 hours before refiring. Shouldn't take more than a 1/2 hour. My door was sagging a bit so I made a new pin to fit the upper hinge, slightly larger dia. to remove play.
All is fine, no pics sorry. Old gasket was basically not held in on the top and latch side with very little old cement in those areas, must have burned up? New gasket is whatever the local stove shop was selling by the foot, seems to be sealing well, although it did not change the handle position much from where it was with the old one. My handle sits more like where yours does, I'd say 5:30, I've seen other people's pics and the handle is much higher. I'm considering an adjustment so that the handle engages the tab in the stove higher up, not really sure how I would do that, or if it would help.
I've heard stories of old where some have gotten the stove hot, then bent the rod to a "gooder" position. No idea if that would work or not. Somebody here may be able to fab up a new handle with the proper bends, but it ain't me at the moment.
