Here it is if need I'll snap a few pictures too. Supposed to take the doors in tomorrow, but not sure how that is going to solve anything. The left door has ton's of play in it. I tried the dollar bill test, and it was good on the sides. On the top and the bottom it was good until half way to the middle, then it failed big time.
Hmm. Looks like you have a hinge problem or a problem at the hinge where the pin is not the right fit. ? Hard to tell from here though. What is the history of the stove?
Had it installed last December, had the company come out and replace a door latch as the nut on the end was stripped. The guy was going to order new doors, but the guy at the store said no it's fine. Taking the doors in tomorrow with the video and hopefully something gets resolved, as I know it hasn't been a good seal since day one.
My NZ3000 failed the dollar bill test where the doors overlap each other. I've gotten the materials ready to do a modification that will solve th problem, though. Not sure what is up with your stove, Madtown......almost seems that either your door or maybe even the actual face of the stove is warped.......
Was thinking like scott. Maybe a warped plate? Maybe u need a fatter gasket on the loose areas if nothing is war rented?
Hey Madtown, this is definitely contributing to the low burn times you had PM'd about. The unit is letting too much air in. My 7100FP is the Quadrafire analogue of your Northstar with similar door design. In the beginning of the vid when the doors are closed, the left door appears to be moving fwd/back independent of the right door. Can you check to see if the closing "wedge" on the right door handle is, or can be, tightened down to ensure that the right door (when closed) is applying enough closing force to seal the left door? Also check the gasket strip along the left door to make sure it is not too compressed to make a seal. Later in the vid with the left door open (and independent of the right door) the door should not be able to move vertically like it is doing. Need to definitely have that looked at.
This is where the dealer makes all the difference in the world. If you're not getting lengthy burns this is exactly why. Is there no gasket material horizontally along the bottom and top of those doors? I had a CDW with dual doors like that and there was gasket material all the way around, pretty thick rope gasket. They never leaked.
I'm seeing the same thing as Scott and Clem. I can't see how you can control the air at all with the leaks in that left door. Also looks like the latch the left side side isn't pulling the door in properly. The dealer should be able to fix it. If the door or stove is not warped, then new gaskets should do the trick.
Ok....took the doors in yesterday. There was a screw that held the pin on the hinge that was loose allowing for the play in the door. Seems to be a lot tighter seal, but still not completely tight in the middle. I fired it up yesterday and had the best burns I have ever had in the unit. Hardly any build up on the doors, and threw 4 logs in at about 7 and still have enough coals to start the thing right now. Obviously not a whole lot of heat value, but seems to be working better. I guess my next question is what type of gaskets are there...size wise? Maybe a fatter one would seal the deal. Thank you for all your help.....There isn't a latch on the left door it is held by the latch on the right.
I was afraid that there wasn't a latch on the left that held it to the frame. I'd say to check with the manufacturer on the size of the gasket. Usually, the stock ones should work. If not, then something is wrong, or the ones that are on are not the right size. Also, check the doors to see if they are square in the middle, meaning are they warped. If they are warped, then you may get by with a thicker gasket. You definitely have to get it air tight so you can regulate that burn.
I just looked at the video again, and the left door is not tight against the right door. The latch looks to be not pulling the door in tight enough. Check that and see if there are shim washers you can remove.
Let me get this straight. You bought this stove last yr? And the dealer installed it? And its never burned right? Why are they not in your house seeing this and then lighting a fire to watch it then coming back to figure if the stove is warped. Not built to the correct tolerances, or just missing something?
Ok played with the gasket a little. Started fire at 10:26...First video 45 min dialed back to about a quarter open. Second video 15 min later 1/8th open. 3rd video is about 25 min later smoke was then visible out of chimney. I guess question is....do I just leave it at about a quarter open and burn or am I doing something wrong and should be able to dial it back some more. I have never been able to keep it established at a 1/4 open before. Also chimney is 16ft and it is about 45 outside...thinking if it had more draft maybe closed more would work. Wood is all abour 17-20% walnut oak elm mix.
Mad town, that burn looks pretty good to me. At some point you should get a little smoke when the fire cools down before it goes into the coaling stage. If you get the gaskets all right and tight, then you should be alright. Clem made a good point about the dealer having a look see. They did the job, and I'm sure the stove has a warrantee.
Dealer came out this morning. Look things over and admitted it was not sealing tight. Took some pictures and was going to order some new gaskets. Before he left decided to take out and reglue as he thought that it was stretched thin in some areas. Seems to have worked. Stove seals up nice and tight now. Hope to have the new gaskets in the next week or so. Said to just hang on to them for when you need them and sorry for the trouble. I guess my biggest laugh/concern about the whole thing, is how can gaskets that are on a new unit not be installed properly, and when 2 others from the company look at the doors, they say the gaskets are fine?