Christmas in march

Got my new safe today! Took some piney ingenuity and some wrestlin around but we got all 700lbs of it in place.

 

Just got my new stairclimbing hand truck delivered on Wed. Takes up to 800 lbs up/down stairs. Need help?

I have the Lincoln version of your safe. All of 800 lbs. Be aware those safes can tip over if you lean on the door while it's open. You can bolt through the rear wall and secure to the block.

 

That hand truck would've come in handy! I noticed it feels front heavy with the door open. Did you bolt yours through the back? Does it void the warranty at all since the only bolt holes are in the floor of the safe?

 

Can't speak to the Liberty rules, but other major manufacturers I deal with are ok with other holes as long as you run bolts that are properly sized through the holes. 3/8 hole with a 3/8 bolt. The rear walls will drill fairly easy. Should be 1 skin of steel then sheet rock type boards. Mine had 3 pieces of 5/8 board. If you have fabric covered interior walls, use a piece of pipe (1/2-3/4") and heat it with a torch. Press the hot pipe through the fabric first, then drill the board and steel. If you try to run a bit through the fabric it will tear/pull and be messy. You should leave some space between the back of the safe and the wall to avoid promoting rust. Use a treated wood spacer at the bolt locations. Mine is not in a final resting spot yet, so it is not bolted down. 800 lbs offers some burglar proofing on its' own.

 

I would be concerned adding holes would cause problems with the fireproofness of it? That'd be my primary reason to have a gun safe.

 

That's for sure. After what we went through getting mine into place, it would have to be a crew of guys and they'd need a few hrs to get it out. We had to lay it on it's back, then roll it onto a dolley on it's side (low ceilings and ductwork in basement). I mainly got the safe for fire protection and also because we have a little one on the way. Im out in the sticks on a road that turns to dirt about 100yds from my property. We all know each other down this way and keep a close eye on everything.

But i am going to call liberty tomorrow just to ask about drilling through the back wall. Thanks for the tips!

 

Make sure you get (or use the one that came with the safe) a dry rod. Basements are damp by nature. Fire safes are damp by nature. Bad combo for nice guns. Also, change the combo from the factory default. Avoid repeating numbers as that can cause mis-entry when trying to make quick entry (duress). VERY IMPORTANT- if there is carpet leading to the safe, make sure you ground yourself prior to touching the dial. I have had to open quite a few safes that failed due to static shock corrupting the memory.

 

Yeah im ordering a dry rod for sure and the combo is already changed. Never thought of the static shock making the lock fail . You a locksmith?

 

yep. Have rods in stock if you want one too. Go bigger than needed regardless.

 

What about the small wireless/ no batteries dehumidifiers? They work any good? My safe didn't come with the outlet kit and im not sure I wanna take all that interior out.

 

Interior stays put. Look at the rear of the safe and try and locate a predrilled hole, 1/4 inch diameter. If no hole, drill one. Rods come with detached plug and wire with cut end opposite rod. Small hole allows cut end to be fed outside safe, then attach plug. Simple procedure. As far as the silca blocks go, they may be fine so long as you get large enough units and keep up with them. Rods are warm to the touch when operating properly, an easy check. Warm guns are harder to pry from my hands too.

 

Some of the safes I have seen have the holes pre drilled on the bottom of the safe. Pull the filler plug and use lag bolts if on concrete. I like corner mounted safes. Less room to work around and protects one of the sides.