It takes two hands to operate my stove door

Most weld shops around here would want $100 to $175 just to grind the hinge off and 're weld. Taking the hinge off opens up more room for error on 're mounting it. Suggestions above are much smarter, safer, cost effective and in fact the time it has taken me to write this post I would of had it done. A side grinder and dremil tool and you wouldn't be able to tell 5' away.
Sometimes the best solution is done by yourself. Unless of coarse you like moving that stove in and out of your house and in and out of a weld shop.
I think you are over complicating things.

 

Also keep in mind you have had this stove how long? And just now noticing. Even after a new door many photos and questions. From a manufacturer / retailers stand point every once in a while you get a customer that is never happy and will never be satisfied and keep comming back for more. This is where somtimes that customer has to be fired. Not saying you are that person but do to lack of fully looking your product over when you first bought it and installed it. Makes you look like "THAT" CUSTOMER.

 

Apparently, from is not the only word I've been misspelling.

It would appear the my sign name should be spelled "YopperDave" according to the "olde english" source!!!

 

Lmao. Still better than YapperDave, right?

 

I have been studying the stove; the fire is out; although I need to build one as it is cold in the house. You guys are correct. I have been looking at where the door closes on the stove and it is too high. However, the hinges on the stove are beefy and probably the best solution would be to grind down the top hinge; although it is gong to be shorter and noticeable; at least to me; it is like when you make an error in something; no one else sees it but you do every time you look at it. If I take the fire brick out and the shields off, I probably can get the stove out on the side porch and take care of it. It is at least 1/8 of an inch; which doesn't sound like much but is a lot to grind off with a hand held grinder and getting it flat; I am sure I will bugger this up. I may have to cut down the bottom some; and the top again, in order to drop the door to the correct place. Yes, I am sure trying to hand grind this down I am going to bugger it up.

 

You may be able to use a flat metal file without having to drag the thing outside.

 

No, the door was hitting the knob on day one and I told ESW about it. Their solution was to send out the same knob. I never thought to look at the hinges. I had someone on here to now tell me to look at the hinges and even posted about someone on that other forum having bad hinges. I am not the only one that is thinking that things have slipped over at ESW; go back through this thread if you think otherwise. ESW just indicated that the door hitting the knob is OK; that they all do it (leading someone to comment it is like Microsoft and a feature of the stove) and someone else thinks that is a lame answer from ESW.

Come on guys! If I was at ESW and their was a problem with a new line of stoves such as the door hitting the knob; I would say, "Hey, this is not good, what can we do to fix it?" However, it appears that the powers that be at ESW stated, "It is good enough; ship them out." The first build of the stove should have been tested for such things. Heck, maybe make the door a tad shorter? I think the problem is that they have already paid to have a lot of the doors cast etc and that they don't want to eat the costs; which I don't blame them. When I built computer systems I sometimes had to eat parts that I could not RMA. The key is that ESW should have caught this design flaw before a lot of money was spent.

 

Got that rod bent yet?

 

No yooperdave and Eric VW , he did not nail it. However, I guess I was too eager in my excitement of getting a new stove. So yes, I did not really inspect the stove when I got it and that was my mistake. However, the stove does have a warranty to cover such things as not noticing defects at day one.

 

No, I am not bending a rod that is only part of the problem when that rod is suppose to be straight. Why does someone think that it is ok to bend something out of shape? You bend things back into the proper position. Besides, bending the rod will probably mess things up with the AAS which I have already stated.

 

OK, what I would do with the control rod is not bend it. I would JB weld, or some other method, a rod on top of the current rod. That would raise the knob and maybe the door would not hit it. I did bend the heat shield on my car that protected the ignition module from the heat of the radiator hose because it was rubbing the hose and caused it to leak. In some cases bending is a solution. I don't think bending the rod, since it also rotates, is a good idea in this case.

 

I’d like to see some of you giving Kimberly a little more slack. I’ve seen many posts showing that she is trying to learn and understand things. Sometimes people want to know all sides of a problem. I think in most cases she gets to the right answer but wants to vett it through completely and that is a process. I’m not under the impression she is necessarily arguing.

 

I am in no way trying to give her grief. Just as a retailer point of view. As I said before the retailer should have never sold a faulty stove and did a very poor job. But that is also what you get for big box store. Save a few bucks and sometimes get the shaft. If I would have sold you that stove you would never of had these problems being overlooked or left un addressed.

 

I just checked all the Lowe's in a reasonable radius and none carry the stove. In fact, when I purchased the stove it was shipped to Lowe's. My sister had it shipped to the Lowe's closest to her because she picked it up and brought it here. I did not drive down and inspect the stove and I never inspected the stove once it was here. I was excited and it never entered my mind; I was busy on getting the chimney finished and the heart pad built. Then I called BIL to come and help me get it inside.

 

I am saying Lowe's should have inspected it. They sold it.

 

I totally agree Corey. I would have modified it before the first fire. But it took me a lot of years of learning (and pushing back with questions, and mistakes) before I got to that point. The garage full of tools also helps
20 years ago though- I would have tried to see every goshdarn angle before planning my modification. I probably would have picked the wrong one first.

 

I think; at times, that Kimberly gets "paralysis by analysis". She gets so caught up in looking at minutia that she doesn't see the obvious.

Angle grinder and a flat file are all you'll need to drop that door to where it's sitting on both hinge blocks. A round file to notch the top of the door if grinding on the upper hinge doesn't allow free movement of the door.

Kimberly; you'll be the ONLY ONE to know what's been done to the stove......................I'll bet anyone that comes to your house doesn't even look at your stove that close.............all they see is fire.