Rakers made all the difference...

Many people don't realize how much rakers make in the way you Chain cuts. Each time you sharpen your Chain you take metal off the Chisel. You can have a razor sharp Chisel but your saw will not take full potential of your sharp Chisel because your rakers won't let it. Every other time you sharpen your Chain the rakers need to be dressed. The preferred depth is 0.25, you use a flat file for this and depth gauge that can be bought on E-Bay. It is a must if you want hi performance out of your Chain. As you slide the depth gauge along on you Chain rakers you just file it down with flat file until it's 0.25 watch what a difference it makes in way your saw cuts. By the way on 3/8 new Chain to sharpen it you start out with 7/32 file as it wears change to 13/64 some people stay with 7/32 file it will work but as the Chisel wears from filling with the 7/32 won't put the hook in the Chisel like the 13/64 file. It's personal opinion sometimes. By the way Vallorbe makes the best file in my opinion. Sthil has what they call a two in one sharpener it will sharpen the Chain and lower the rakers at the same time. Hope this thread will help someone.

 

Stumper you have some great tips! and welcome to the club! do you have a way to post pics? I think it would add to you suggestions!

 

Does this also apply to .325? Use 11/64? At what wear point of the tooth? Halfway? I have heard about filing the back of the tooth for better chip movement. Any experience with that?

 

To answer your question are you using a 5/32 file if you are try file , the 3/16 will put more hook in your Chisel and make it more aggressive on .325 Chain you work have to lower raker per four sharpers on Chain. Rakers gauges come in three sizes ts (.025, .030, .035, ) I like 030. for .325 .It is personal preference hope I answered your question.
The file diameter is less important than how far down on the tooth the file rides. The farther down it rides the more knife edge it makes, which will cut faster but dull quicker.
When the file is high on the tooth you get more of a bull dozer edge that don't cut as easily.

 

I use 3/16" files for my .325 chains, 5/32 for my pico chains. Pferd does make an 11/64 which would be an equal drop like 7/32 to 13/64. I don't race or anything, but I am not a fan of a dull chain. Have been doing them freehand for 15+ years. I do also hit the rakers. I should probably get a gauge, but right now, I give two medium strokes on each raker about every 5th sharpening.

 

You are right with all your file sizes. You are correct on hitting your rakers every fifth time you sharpen your Chain. You maybe old school when it comes down to your Chain sharpening. Sthil makes what is called a two in one sharpening system it takes less time and less strokes to sharpen your Chain...some people use 11/64 on .325 Chain it seems to cut better when used.

 

You are absolutely right in every way, BUT there is another downside to cutting too deep in the gullet; your chain wears out before its full useful life is over.

You will notice this when you get your chain filed back 2/3 of the way and no matter how you drop your rakers, or how often you file your saw, the saw acts dull. That is because it is. By the time the cutter is filed back that far, you are putting in a really good hook on the tooth and it dulls almost instantly, especially on hardwood.

I used to file deep into the gullet but no longer do for this reason. I want my chain to last as long as possible and cut well all the way to the end.

But what you describe is vital and why I dislike anything but a file to file my saw; I can adjust it to the wood I am cutting. Hardwood with mud, yep very light on the gullet with less angle across the front. If I am cutting fir, I can angle the face back more and go deep into the gullet...and of course file down my rakers pretty hard.

 

Most people that don't know how to sharpen a Chain, ruin it first or second time they sharpen it because they just don't know how to sharpen it. If you take the gullet out you just took the longevity out of there Chain. Electric sharpening maybe nice but in the wrong hands it will eat a Chain up.

 

Easy solution to the whole issue



PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - CHAIN SHARP® CS-X - CHAIN SHARP CS-X

 

You left out two things about PFERD sharpening system does or does not do.
First you didn't mention it is for for Full comp Chain only.
Secondly it has a reputation for taking rakers to far down makes Chain grab...not good...
I have a degree in mechanical engineering that doesn't make me right but damm close...
Know what you are talking about before you post a product. It is a great sharpening system and
I would recommend it to anyone who understands the Full concept of the tool. I own a shop and service
hundreds of saws a year... didn't mean to ruffle your feathers I apologize if I did. Have a nice day!!!

 

Yes yes yes on keeping those rakers trimmed. Don’t ask me how I know.

 

Isn't the PFERD exactly the same as the stihl ?

 

Another bit of wisdom. Dont get any ideas about cutting your rakers (aka: depth guides) way down to get a bigger chip/faster cutting. Your chain is going to grab and stall like crazy on top of having kickback like crazy. They are set to an optimal depth when new, and bigger isnt better in this case.

 

It is.

 

Why?

 

To hoom that product is being marketed. Skip chain is the farthest thing from their mind.

 

So, I was wondering Stumper why didn't you mention the part Below in your first post when you mentioned the stihl 2 in 1 tool ?


You left out two things about PFERD sharpening system does or does not do.
First you didn't mention it is for for Full comp Chain only.
Secondly it has a reputation for taking rakers to far down makes Chain grab...not good...
I have a degree in mechanical engineering that doesn't make me right but damm close...
Know what you are talking about before you post a product. It is a great sharpening system and
I would recommend it to anyone who understands the Full concept of the tool. I own a shop and service
hundreds of saws a year

 

I bought the Pferd sharpener. Used a couple times and went back to freehand. If you have a vise handy, the sharpening tool works pretty good, but I'm usually sharpening on the tailgate or out in the woods somewhere, rather than in the shop. I have a stump vise, but it get used very little.

I have sometimes gotten mine a little short. The solution was to file the cutters some more to get the depth back to correct height.

 

Nice rehash of info already covered. For a more in depth look at chain sharpening please visit the two sticky threads at the top of the page covering this exact topic. And now back to your regularly scheduled program...

As far as the Pferd/Stihl 2-1 tool it's all in how you apply pressure when you are sharpening. I've found with this tool if you apply too much downward pressure, it trims to much off the depth gauges. If you apply light pressure toward the tooth with each stroke, the tool gives good results. Let the file do the work a light stroke is all that's needed. For the record I've had good luck with them on Oregon semi chisel chain.

 

Barcroftb summed it up best. It's how you use the pferd sharpening system that makes the difference. At least he saw his mistakes and corrected them. As he mentioned you take light strokes on pferd system to sharpen the Chain. Both Sthil 2n1 and pferd are both aggressive when you apply pressure on them. Thanks Barcroftb for your input in this discussion it has helped a lot, and you knew what you were taking about. Sometimes we learn from our mistakes. No one is perfect, that what this club is about trying to help each other with different ideas. I am glad I joined the club and I already have met a lot of nice people. Thank you all....