So we're having issues with our neighbors and the parking, and come to find out we actually have easement rights on the driveway that we all share as it's in their property line on the land plat. There's a massive oak tree that I have to back around to unload my truck and such however there is a straight shot to my wood pile and the side of our house. Only thing is a huge root from that oak tree growing straight towards the house. I thought about just taking a junky chain and cutting it but it raises the question of the life of the tree. Will it kill it if I cut the root? Looks just like a limb buried in the ground growing towards the house. No pic sorry, will get one tomorrow. Basically it's house-buried root-tree. If I can get rid of root I can back straight in and not have to worry about the neighbors blocking my truck in. Our landlord is taking the steps to rectify the situation but we're trying to help as we can. We share same driveway but the duplex across from us is owned by different person. Our landlord is amazing btw. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
A root that large will surely injure the tree if cut. Like said above, dump some dirt or gravel until you can drive over it
ditto above bUT since your landlord is a good guy.. advise him of root towards foundation... trust me that it will screw up a foundation. . seems funny but here the root is trespassing and causing damage.. really how law reads..
I agree with everyone else try to raise the grade around the root. Cutting a root that big would surely damage the tree in my opinion. If the tap root ever rots out that as big as that root is is helping to support that side of the tree! With that root removed when that happens you could be asking fir it to fall on your house!
Not trying to be an arse but this is a common misconception. I've been in the tree care industry for 35 years and have become fairly well informed on tree physiology. Very few trees have a large, central "tap root" that shoots deeply into the ground. In fact I can only think of one; the yew. Yes, there is the initial root of a young tree that shoots down into the ground but it's typically 10"-12" and is absorbed by the stump as the tree roots begin to grow laterally. When you see a picture of a large tree uprooted from a storm, the root ball will usually leave a hole about 2' deep. I have a commercial stump grinder that will go about 18" deep. It's a very rare occurrence where I can't get the entire stump out. The above mentioned yew is one of those times. Trees get their stability from the lateral roots. Here's an analogy. Stand with your feet together and have someone give you a push at shoulder height. You'll lose your balance pretty easily. Now spread your feet apart about 2' and have them do it again. You're far more stable with that wider stance. The roots grow in tandem with the structure above the ground so yes, removing a large root can be detrimental to the stability of the tree. However, it also depends on where you want to cut the root off. I have a very large silver maple in my back yard. 5 years ago I needed to put up a fence and one of the roots was in the way. It was about 5" in diameter. Where the fence was going was about 15' from the trunk. I took my stump grinder and cut that root out of the way. If it would have been within 5'-6' feet of the tree I probably would not have done it. Because it was so far from the trunk I knew that root would send out new shoots to replace the one that was lost. When a tree loses a branch it will send out 4-5 new ones to replace the one that was lost. The root system works the same way. While I'm not advocating that James Dean go out and start chopping at the problem root, it's not entirely out of the question. But I would want to see the situation before I made that determination.
Introducing a new and large injury to a tree could allow fungus or insects to affect the tree. You might end up with a standing dead oak that would need to come down...
I agree with Uncle Joe, cutting the root is not as bad as adding dirt. Heaping dirt around trunks, i.e. mini volcano is a sure way to kill one.
You need to talk to some of the landscape companies around here. I'm having a heck of a time trying to convince some of these guys to quit piling mulch 3' up the trunk of the tree. Girdling roots anyone?
Thanks for the replies. I'll snap a pic of said root tomorrow. It's within feet of the tree Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
First pic the root is to the left of the mulch pile. Second pic is a close up. I considered piling mulch or gravel around it to drive over it but it's up pretty high. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Wow....that's....close....to the foundation, if not under it already Too bad you can't add that whole tree to your stacks.
I think I'd be adding that tree to my stack as well. :stacke::stacke: That has the potential to wreak havoc on your foundation if it hasn't already!
I think I would cut that. To reduce risk of infection, dig around the portion that you want to cut out, make a clean cut and then leave the clean cut exposed to dry out the wound for a couple of weeks. (wrote that and then looked it up. Turns out, I'm not far off the mark). Tree wounds are the first stage in causing mature tree death. "Prevention is really the best measure when it comes to wounds to a tree's roots because there is little you can do once serious damage has occurred. Should you have a situation in which excavation or construction has exposed torn or broken tree roots, make sure to trim them with clean cuts, backfill the area with good, loose soil, and do whatever you can to avoid further compromise to the root system. If the tree has been seriously damaged, you should know it within a year or so. " Construction damage causes and remedies - Tree Planting and Care: Minnesota DNR "Severed roots can be the result of lowering the grade, new construction or trenching. This type of damage has few remedies. Severing roots reduces water and nutrient uptake, eliminates stored energy and may compromise the stability of the tree. When the grade is lowered by more than two inches, vital feeder roots are eliminated, nutrient rich topsoil is removed and the remaining root system is severely wounded. If enough of the root system is destroyed or detached, the tree will die. As a general rule, 20% of the root system can be destroyed before the tree will show signs of injury. If 40% of the root system is lost, the tree will probably die. It should also be removed because it is hazardous. For all types of digging operations, cleanly cut exposed or severed roots to promote rapid wound closure. Vibratory plows and chain trenchers leave cleaner cuts than bulldozers and backhoes. When working inside the dripline, use only hand tools. Instead of trenching, tunnel under the root system when it is necessary to work inside the dripline. Minimize the impact of root severing by avoiding construction during hot, dry weather, keeping trees well watered before and after digging and covering exposed roots with soil or mulch as soon as possible." Leaving those roots in place can be more hazardous to that tree as they provide a continuous point of entry for infection as long as they are exposed and driven over. Cut 'em, dry 'em, water the tree and hope for the best.
Nasty for sure. Options limited. You could always build a ramp to go over it but the foundation really begs some attention there.
I think I'm going to dig around it and see if I can just cut it out with an old bar and chain. It's much larger than it was when we moved in over here in 2015. Lived here 2 years now. I wonder if a sawzall will cut it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk