Adjustable double-wall elbows

Howdy y'all!

I'm not quite ready to hook up the new Woodstock IS to the chimney, but I know I'm probably not going to be right-on with 2 45-degree elbows. I'll need some adjustment. I've found a lot of non-adjustable double-wall elbows, but the DuraVent DVL seems to be. Is that accurate? Here's a link:
6'' DVL 45 Degree Double-Wall Black Elbow - 6DVL-E45

I guess I'm just trying to confirm that the DuraVent DVL elbow is indeed adjustable, and also wondering if DVL is compatible with Selkirk double-wall straight sections.

Thanks for your help!

 

Looks like I may have my answer from a post over on Hearth.com:

Question about 45° adjustable dvl elbows

Now the trickiest part will be adapting to 7" Secure Temp chimney (Security Chimneys brand). I have a few options, but none of them will look very good.

 

I have some elbows like that. The most I can get out of them is 45º but anything less is easy to do. Mine are set to around 10º each to give me an offset that matches my need for a particular ceiling penetration point.

 

The previous appliance did. I'm told the 7" chimney is OK for the Woodstock IS (manual states minimum of 6"). The first several feet will be 6", of course.

 

Current status of hearth rebuild:

 

Hollywood uses a 7 inch flue with the ideal steel.

 

Current status. Time to build the woodbox door and get the tile down! This week, I hope. Still some finish drywall to do, as well as figure out finish and trim for the alcove.

 

I'm thinking it might not be compatible not sure, give Northline a call and ask

 

I think I've decided to use the rear exit of the stove, and go with DuraVent DVL right from the stove to a tee, then a telescoping length to the chimney adapter. This will simplify the installation, and I think it will look cleaner to have more of the connections partially hidden behind the stove in the alcove. I have plenty of clearance in the alcove for DVL.

 

I dislike rear exits instead of proper all vertical but in this case, your plan sounds far more aesthetically pleasing. Make sure you have enough room below the tee to access the cleanout. Would be great if you could get enough room under the tee to use a sooteater.

Any reason you didn't just leave the alcove open all the way to the floor?

 

Great question! The old ZC fireplace was propped up on cinder blocks about 16" high. Those were cemented in place and I didn't think I would need to remove them. Should have done that...hindsight.

 

Hey wildwest -

Our chimney is about 21 feet high. What you are seeing in the picture is the SS chimney starting up through the brick exterior chase. This is a basement installation in a split-level home. It's actually not a bad design, because it allows for that tall woodbox to the left, which i can load from the outside.

 

That will be a nice set up .
Have you ever seen bogydave ,s wood chute ?
If not take a look here Wood chute pictures

 

That's slick! I love the "coffin" ready to fill with splits! My wood room is about 24" square by about 7 feet tall, so it can hold quite a few wheelbarrow loads. It is basically uninsulated, however, so the wood doesn't get much drying effect from being indoors. It's usually pretty dry by the time it hits the woodbox anyway.

 

Yeah, that sounds like it could be a real bugger to clean the chimney back in an alcove behind the stove.
After looking at your pics again I'm wondering why you would need an adjustable elbow to make a top connection work?
As long as you get the rise and run correct, (2) 45* elbows should connect right up...a section of telescoping double wall pipe (or 2) would make this install pretty simple...unless I'm missing something here...
I'd much rather have (2) 45* elbows and a top connection than a 90 and rear connect!