New stove ideas

I have 5 or 6 stairs and a standard width door

 

if door is 36 and you got a buddy your good..

 

What could the disassembled weight drop down to?

 

I just did this move. Shipping weight was 740 lbs. I'm guessing, but here's what I think I got the stove down to in order to move with an appliance truck:

Shipping crate: 35 lbs (remove the sides and top)
Side panels, ash grate, door, top, sled, other misc. parts: 150 lbs
Interior soapstone liner and firebrick: 150 lbs

So, I think in the end, we moved about a 400 pound box. It still seemed quite heavy, even as stripped as it was. However, I used NO TOOLS in taking it apart, and will need no tools to put it back together. The soapstone liner will take a bit of magic to reinstall, but also not too difficult. I'd highly recommend renting an appliance truck to get down your stairs.

 

When you choke these stoves back for a slow burn, is there any smoke at all? I'm not used to a 14-16 hour burn or a cat stove. My hearthstone is done within 6 hours more or less

 

There is no smoke and there's also not really even a smell either. I can smell someone's wood stove from a few blocks away but you can't smell mine unless it's a cold start or a reload . Once it gets going you only see heat waves.

 

Wow. That's exactly what I want then. So, would you guys recommend ideal steel or progress. I can afford both but the progress is expensive and once you get everything you are up over 5k so it would need to be a lot better to justify the cost for me

 

the progress looks more like a hearthstone.. from what I've read they are similar in performance... BDF who was in Bradford that had both?

 

Burndatwood

I understand them to be pretty close but the progress has an edge on higher output and the IS on burn times. I think they are so similer that the decision is mostly on aesthetics. The progress MIGHT live a little longer but the IS will last a very long time if cared for like it should.

 

The cat on the IS looks easier to access and less likely to clog.

 

I do not know.

Just to interject into this thread, there is nothing magic about any wood burning stove; throw a catalytic combustor in at the top of the firebox, insulate the stove and give enough volume to chuck the heat generated by the combustor before it exits the flue and there you go. The problems crop up, IMO, when we complicate this or charge too much for the consumable parts (mostly, combustors). Otherwise, it is fairly easy to build an efficient wood stove IMO.

Apologies in advance if this violates anyones' sacred opinions. <really big grin>.

Now turn one upside-down, burn from the firebox down into the combustion chamber, turn the stove 'On / Off' as needed (via thermostat) and we could really have something IMO. See avitar for example. Now I do not take credit for this as there are writings about this, in English, referring to "bottom burning' stove back into the 1600's. But other than wood fired boilders, I do not know of anyone doing it at this time. Vermont Castings sorta', kinda' did it back in the 1970's but it seems no one noticed. We wood burners are a thick lot in my experience.....

Brian

 

My brother TurboDiesel and I have used Roll-or-kari organ dollies to move a Fireview and a Beta Ideal Steel and a production Ideal Steel multiple times. (Tim started with my old Fireview, and is now burning my Ideal Steel since I'm living at my mom's.) They're definitely worth the price of a day's rental. Easier than an appliance dolly. I liked them so much I bought an old pair cheap on Craigslist that need some parts replaced, but there's nothing comparable to them.

 

I moved a 900 lb safe on a set