How do you store them (sharp ready to go vs. needing to be sharpend) and separate variations (size and length)? Do you coat them to keep rust off of them? I'm a newbie learning. While sorting through the chains to see my exact quantity of chains that I'm sending with the two saws that I just sold. Well, after all this knowledge that I've learned here in the last two months. I made some rookie errors. I had a brand new .325 20" chain that I dont own a bar too ( I do now) and a brand new 3/8 18" chain that I dont own a bar too either (I will since its the size that I want to get on one of my saws). So I currently use old butter containers with motor oil in them (enough to coat the chains). But what I find is that I'm constantly trying to fight getting them untangled. The rhubics cube was a throw toy or some reason the stickers where never as sticky as they started out.... I'm sure some you that have been around the block can provide some hints and tips what works for you.
I hang them up and fold them with both ends on the nail when sharp and just one end when dull or used but not freshly sharpened.
I have them in boxes sorted by pitch (.325, .375, .404, etc.), hanging on the wall, wired to bars and hung on the wall, etc. I probably have 400+ loops scattered around my garage.
Trying to standardize my inventory. Only keep one length in each gauge. .050 in 18 inch and .063 in 16 inch all .325 pitch. Sharp has a wire twist tie on it and dull does not.
Mount a 2x4 with some nails in it. Hang 'em up and organize as you see fit. They won't rust unless you degrease them or leave them outside for extended periods of time. Dull chains get hung near or on the grinder. They never stay that way long however. I also save the plastic boxes that Stihl chains come in. They work pretty good for hauling chain into the field. The fastest way to de-crud a chain is to crank the oiler on the saw wide open and cut a couple cookies off an exceptionally green log.
Bars/ extra chains from 42" on down to 16" on south wall of shed hanging separately.Plus a few nearly worn out ones that are kept for any dirty cutting i.e. stumps,fence work,any old yardbirds where I don't want to risk a new chain.Several new in the box yellow (20" to 42" full chisel,ripping & skip tooth) chains on shelf out of view on west wall too.
I have 2 or three loops in my woodshed over a nail. Out is open sided and they dont really rust after 6 months or so. I try to keep sharp ones with saws and usually there stored dull. For me I can just look or feel them to tell if there sharp or not. A sharp chisel chain will about cut your finger open.
One on the saw, usually stays there until it goes in the trash. 2 new ones, in oily rag in the saw tool box in zip lock bags. The rest are still in original box on the shelf.
I take 2 chains usually and just swap chains instead of sharpening. Its faster for me. Then do them on grinder later. Now I am mostly just using another saw altogether
I swap in the field too if needed. Then sharpen at home (file). Only have 3/8 x .050 72 dl. Got a god deal on 72LPX & LGX so I bought 5 of each ($14 ea free shipping couple years back) No spare for the little craftsman.
I ordered some chain from jim goodall on ebay. He while for about that. Some chain was $13 others like the 25" was closer to the $15 mark . I got some forester chain and some oregon. He ships 5 chains for $6. The prices I quoted were with the shipping split up on each chain I got.
I have some hanging on the wall... Some are matched with bars: And I just have some chain hanging on the walls:
Ok, this has been interesting. Looks like the nail and wood is pretty consistantly used across the board. I'll have be investigate a area to do that in the garage.
If they are in a shop where you do a lot of woodwork They will get dust covered pretty quick, Oily stuff sucks dust
