I did read your comment. I don't know how I would get a rope around the trunk 20 feet up; there are no lower limbs; all branches are at the very top. I have a ladder but nothing that would stablise the ladder around a tree. These poplars are like weeds. I probably should have a wedge in case I misread the tree. Cut the notch, start the back cut, set the wedge, etc.
If you are that unsure of cutting this tree you should get some help with it before you get hurt. IMO!
It's not complicated but it can be dangerous. As you said get a couple of plastic wedges and drive 1 or more behind the bar on your back cut. You'll be surprised how much the top of a tree moves as you drive in the wedge.
I studied the tree again today; I mainly waited because my arms were so sore; I want to be sure I can have control of the saw; the Beast is probably the limit of how heavy a saw I can manage. I guess it is like Yooper said, people are reluctant to give advice. I am thinking the mass at the top of the tree is going to influence the fall more than the mass at the bottom, with the top leaning out from the base of the tree, from my physics training and knowing about moments, I probably need to cut in the direction of how the top of the tree is leaning. The tree actually leans slightly different at the bottom. I have errands to run tomorrow but I think I will call a local tree service and see what they will charge to just drop a tree on the ground; and get them to tell me what they see and how they would cut it so I get a lesson as well. However, I can not pay someone $100 to just put a tree on the ground.
I dont see anything in those pictures that would get me excited, but thats just me and i am far from a expert.
That tree looks pretty straightforward and could be felled in a number of different directions provided you plan ahead. However if you don't feel comfortable then the 100 bucks you mentioned to have someone drop it is pretty reasonable. Personally I'd hook a line to it like the other fellows mentioned and with a good face cut you should be able to put it wherever you want. The easiest and best way to learn how to direct trees is to practice. Go out in the woods and start on smaller trees and work your way up. Most trees are pretty easy to fell but you always need to be aware that two trees are never the same.
I'll save you some time. Don't bother calling around. No legit tree service is going to show up and drop a tree for $100 or less. Insurance, payroll, and show up costs add up to more than that. There's a reason they charge big bucks. It takes big bucks to do do a job efficiently and safely while turning a profit.
Yeah visually place an imaginary plumb bob from the top part of the trunk to gauge the lean. also Gauge top weight. A decent knot on a rope should snug on the trunk where you place it unless the trunk is as smooth as a stripper pole.
Some places will send a guy over at the end of the day for a quick job like that. Back before I knew jack and my dad had just passed we had a tree service come and drop several trees in my mom's yard. Granted that was about 20 years ago and they charged $50 a tree to lay them down for a total of $350. The first place we called wanted $2500 bucks and had a big song and dance about "needing to rent a larger bucket truck for the job". Yeah, sure thing buddy.
I agree. After looking at the pictures, there's nothing about that tree that would cause me concern. I don't claim to be an expert, but I've probably felled a hundred trees. Since there is nothing around to worry about hitting, this is a good chance to practice. You are correct, the weight at the top is going to have a much greater influence on its preferred direction of fall than the slight curvature of the trunk. Do your basics. Determine where the line of fall is going to be, then clear your escape path. Do not make the face cut too deep or cut the hinge too thin expecting the tree to fall on its own. You can always cut a little deeper if necessary. Set a wedge (or two) in the back cut as soon as it is deep enough. Drive the wedge(s) progressively deeper as the back-cut deepens. Use the wedge(s) to push the tree over. It's surprising how much the top of the tree will move as you drive the wedge in. As long as the hinge is thick enough, you will not get any surprises. The tree will fall slowly at first and the hinge will control the fall until it breaks. By that time, gravity is in full control. You will have plenty of time to get out of the way. I'm not a tree faller, but I play one on YouTube.
I don't own any wedges; so went looking. I see they come in different sizes, 5, 6, 8, 10 inches. What size should I buy? Should I have more than one size. I called a local farm supply and they carry them; too late as they will be closed by the time I get there today but wanted to know what size(s) I should buy.
Kind of depends on the size of the tree, don't want the wedge hitting the hinge. Small tree, small wedge. I like and use my larger wedges more, but I can't explain why. Just to be sure, these are plastic wedges, yes?
Buy all of them and return the ones you don't use. Let 'em know up front what your plan is and to expect you to return all but 1 or 2 of them. That is of course if you don't keep em for a future project. You can also cut a wedge out of some of that hickory.
I would get a few sizes. Depends on how big of trees you fell...I have a 10" but rarely use it. I find the 5 and 8" ones get used more. You can also get wedges that have "spikes" in them that help keep them in.
You are right to consider moment arms and mass. To get a line high in a tree you do not climb it, unless you are a monkey. What you do is use a light weight cord and a weight on the end of it and throw it into the tree where you want your line. Then you tie your pulling rope to that light weight cord and pull the rope into the tree. There are specialized tools made for doing this, but for only one tree I would probably improvise the components and put up with the inconveniences of not having a proper throwing weight bag and throwing line.
There are no lower limbs on this tree for any rope; will be looking at using a wedge for help; if I can get some wedges.
