Warm Restart Problems

I have a Redmax G5300, which is the same as the Husqvarna 353. When I'm out cutting, it starts just as it should in the beginning. It also re-starts hot on the first pull. If I let the saw sit for 10 or 15 minutes, it can be troublesome to restart. I'm still trying to work out the best combination of primer bulb, choke and throttle set. Once I get it restarted, I have to let it idle a few minutes before it's ready to cut. If I try to rush it, it will die when I give it throttle. I've noticed others complaining about similar issues with newer saws. I know that mine is a full drain-back fuel system (all of the fuel in the system is pulled back into the tank) as the saw cools down. I believe this is an EPA requirement and may be the cause of the warm restart issues.

Does anyone have any insight or suggestions about this issue?

 

Most of the warm restart issues I hear about are on auto tune
Is your carb tuned right? I would just yank the cord if it really is warm

 

I own Husqvarna 346. Try this Pull out the choke, and push it back in. Don't touch anything , just start pulling on the cord until it starts.

 

It is as it came from the factory. Nothing has been changed.

 

I have tried various combinations, including this one. It will start, but seems to take too many pulls and too long to be ready to cut. Maybe it's me, but I just expect a new saw to be more user friendly than an old one. I don't have any of these problems with my 34 y/o Husqvarna 61.

 

If it dies when you give it throttle and acts like a cold engine, the low side jet likely needs to be turned counter clockwise a little to richen the mixture.

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The EPA regs have them setting them as lean as possible and I have heard that many of the L jets are set lean that make starting hard.

Do you know that your at the same humidity, temperature and elevation that the factory was ? Now how about everyday of the year matching the temps at the factory?

I have saws that have to be tuned from winter to summer. They won't idle and flood out in the summer on the time they had in the winter. Other saws I never have to change? But every saw is different even in a model line. I personally would tune the saw.

 

I live at 4000 ft., so I assume it's running richer than at the factory. The shop I bought it from is at 3500 ft, but I don't think they made any adjustments when I bought it. Humidity and temperature are much too variable to try to account for.

In general, I'm very happy with the saw. This is the only detail that bothers me.

 

Again if you have not tried adjusting the carb it's hard to offer any other suggestions? That's the first step.

I'm not trying to talk down or be a A-hole here. Just seriously offering where I would start. It would be with the carb adjusting tools and making small adjustments.

You say you assuming it's running richer...that's not always a good thing. Too rich and it can be hard to start as well, from flooding out.

 

So true, too rich and too lean can act the same. Some experimenting with the low side is in order.

 

Both my 661 and 362 can be a problem to start when hot, and sometimes they don't start at all. I mentioned the 661 problem to the mechanic at the Stihl dealership and he said if it won't start when it's hot it's propably a bad coil but he'd have to have it to be sure.

One thing is for sure, he has to have the saw, he can't diagnos it telepathically. But I doubt it's the coil.

Both saws were made late in the first year, or early in the second year of production of these models, which I believe has more to do with the problem that a bad coil.

I'll get them in the shop at the end of May and have them checked out. In the mean time the 461 is there to take over when the other two won't start. Stihl, you bet.

 

My 550xp has hot start problems, holding the throttle wide open and pulling 1 or 2 times usually gets it goen.

 

That seems a bit scary!

 

That's how you start a flooded saw and the proper technique?

 

I tried that and never could get it to work for me. Now, if need be, I pull the plug dry the electrode, pull the cord 3 or 4 times, replace the plug and it fires on the second pull. However, that does not work for the 661 or the 362 only on the old 455 Rancher and once or twice on the 461.

 

Yep pulling the pkug and shooting it with carb cleaner is a trick I use as well.

 

Well its probly not a safe procedure, and i might not do it with a 70cc or bigger saw but sometimes the 550 wont start when hot and this is what works to get it goen. Just remember us western united states dwellers are sorta loco sometimes

 

Put the chain brake on if you like it won't let it turn.

 

I have done this, and it does work though it may take several pulls. It's a difficult (and potentially dangerous) maneuver since you can't lock the throttle open and must hold the saw with one hand while pulling with the other. I'm getting old and my strength is not what it used to be.