Chainsaw Rebuild

Wow that second video really was helpful. So if I ordered #14 & #15 from Bailey's that would solve the intake boot issue where it is prone to leaking?

I would also need a muffler bracket from a 346 to put on for the swap? Would I still use red loctite with the bracket? Or is the locktite a workaround for the bracket?

Just wanted to tell y'all thank you again for the help so far on hopefully getting this one up and running. Means a lot for a community to help a new member with such a task

T2 Tappin'

 

I will go and look on Bailey's to see if I can find a new intake boot that fits a metal clamp. Can I use the part #'s from the diagram with #14 & #15?

When you say are the NE's good to go? What do you mean by NE's?

T2 Tappin'

 

I'd do what The Wood Wolverine show'd with the clamp. That'll let you use a screw clamp which is easier to deal with and not be out anymore than the cost of the clamp.

NE346= new edition 44mm cylinder. Not necessarily better than the Older 42mm.

 

I've not had a problem w just red loctite.

 

Also, you need a good sealer to apply to the riser to case area. I use Permatex Motoseal but there are choices. If you zoom in on this pic, you can see a small amt of squeeze out in the area I am describing. Don't let too much of it on the inside. This is probably the second most common place for failures, causing air leak then lean sieze.

 

I've been using this to make seals on these small engines. Y'all think this is an ok product?



T2 Tappin'

 

The black chassis? Dyed? Another model?

 

From the video earlier in the thread the new 44mm you don't have to do any mods on the cylinder like you would on the 42mm. I got a new clamp and boot ring on the parts now. Along with a muffler bracket and some loctite

T2 Tappin'

 

The red 350. Saws are identical save for asthetics. Makin' an all black JRed (no thread jack intended).

I'm not sure about that sealer.

 

I have heard that the silicone are not fuel resistant enough to use for a saw

 

I'd get the Permatex Motoseal. Used on bunches of saws w/o leaks.
Ah, I remember the all black J-red. Looks cool,
I saw that black chassis and started some thinking...I have multiple 42cc Craftsman (Poulan) chassis with bad topends.....I wonder if the Poulan clamshell fits the 42mm 340 tall cylinder?

 

Here's a before/after on a 346 cyl on a 350 riser block (not my photos). Just make sure you don't try the top set up. I am uncertain on the oe/ne.

 

Pics not working.

 

Mine are. And I wonder if he means don't try the bottom set up. That's the one that looks like it has metal crashing togeather.

 

Bottom pic is of a "pro" saw builders grinding work to get the 346 to work on the 350 riser. Again, not sure if he was using an old edition or new edition cylinder. I'll do some looking so I know for myself and post my findings.

 

Hey guys/gals sorry about the long reply time. I have been caught up between work and having to appear in court after my Tahoe was stolen the Wednesday before Christmas.

I did manage to get the body/chassis cleaned late last night. I will look for some of the MotoSeal.

Here she after a cleaning







T2 Tappin'

 

Clean looking saw. I didn't know that this model has the clamshell as part of the chassis.
A favor, please....can you measure the distance between centers of 4 mounting holes?

 

Locktite 518 will also work for sealant. But the surfaces have to be squeaky clean.

 

Are all clamshell huskies like this? The shihl clam shells bolt into the handle part. There is a bottom bearing pan or cover for lack of thinking of another word

 

I have no experience with it but Matt does.