Whitfield Photo Eye Bypass Surgery! Anyone try this? See pics! It works!

Take a pic of the exhaust housing so we can see if there is a removable cover. Most Whits have it!

 

Once I finally got in there, sure enough, there was a cover. I replaced it tonight. The problem I have now is, I'm not sure if it's working properly. I lit the stove and it ran for a little over two hours. I noticed that the flame looked really low all of a sudden. I opened up the door and the burn pot was completely full (unburned/partially burned pellets). Like a normal fire, I mixed it up and the flame started back up but within ten minutes, it was all but out. My stove hadn't "faulted", but I'm assuming it hadn't fallen below the 110 degree mark on the exhaust. Anyway, bottom line (this is my first pellet stove), any ideas why the pellets wouldn't be burning completely? Too much air....not enough air...something else entirely?

 

Hello
The snap disc that you replaced, if it was not working the pellets would stop feeding.
So if the pellets are still feeding then your problem may be there is not enough air from a dirty stove or weak exhaust blower.

 

Thanks gang. I'm going to try to open up the damper this afternoon and see if that changes anything. Currently, the pellet speed is on its lowest setting.

 

I'm new on this site and am gonna try this fix. The newly installed disc, when sensing temperature above its limit, will allow the stove to continue dropping pellets? Is that the idea behind this fix? And sorry, is there a number for a ceramic disc that you recommend fitting in that hole after the cover is removed? Thanks for providing this and any help you can offer!

 

Welcome
One of my friends said he was very frustrated with his Lennox Whitfield Traditions T300p but after I did the eye bypass surgery he loves the stove now!
Yes the ceramic disc does what the photo eye does and closes the contacts to keep the stove running.
Any 3/4" diameter 120 Deg or 140 Deg White Ceramic disc that will "Close on Rise" will work.
I like the 120 Deg F because the heat turns on a little sooner.
So go to it and good luck!

 

Maybe was not explained very well,I will try,the original "eye" sees "proof of fire/flame".Is used a lot in oil burners,and other systems.The snap switch conversion is turned on by heat,but serves the same purpose,proof of fire by detecting heat.A snap switch is usually very reliable,is what most pellet stoves use.The "eye" is overkill.Some stoves use a snap switch mounted on "anywhere" on the firebox,most are on/near the exhaust blower housing,both are fine.A simple snap switch mounted anywhere the heat is first produced,is acceptable.The conversion above is because the eye system on those stoves is very susceptible to dirt/dust,which is why the conversion is a good thing.Hope this helps.

 

Hi. I have whitfield fs30 and tried this bypass today. I use a wall thermostat. Did the bypass, started the stove and the fan runs high for about 3 seconds then goes to low ( which is the speed i have stove set for) and pellets feed but it does not ignite. Just sends pellets until it overflows. What could be wrong? It is not going through the statting process.

 

The photo eye does not start operating until the stove completes the startup cycle and goe into the run cycle. So the bypass has no effect until the stove fires up and starts running.
For the pellets to light during the start cycle, you need heat and air flow:
Therefore if the pellets are not lighting and the exhaust fan is running, does the igniter get hot?
Also can you post pics of your bypass sensor and wiring?

 

Welcome to FHC cheryl

 

The igniter is not getting hot. It is a new igniter also. It is not going into startup mode at all. Just goes into whatever fan setting I have and shoots pellets . I disconnected The bypass last night so I could get it running again.

 

Sounds like the bypass may not be wired correctly. Can u post pics?

 

X2