Saw Adjustments

Is it common to have to "tweak" your saws Carb settings based on humidity, temperature, of air pressure??? Seems I have to do this a fair bit.

 

Bought mine in '07 and haven't touched the screws once.
Maybe I should, but I'd just make it run bad.
Runs fine, so I'm leavin' it alone.

 

It isn't uncommon to tweak certain saws depending on those conditions. Some of mine are a bit finicky and need slight adjustments, but others dont seem to need it as much.
While cutting, I always listen to the tune. If it sounds off, then it gets adjusted.

 

X2

My 029 is about 15 years old and as far as I know it has never been adjusted.
Runs fine.

 

What kind of saw is it? Just curious. Also, do you cut at massively different elevations? I never touch the adjustments unless it is new out of the box and I adjust the dealer settings (sometimes). Seems like an odd problem to me.

 

It's a late '70's ProMac 610. Seems like I'm having to adjust the idle speed in different temperatures.

 

I think my father has that same saw. I never got into it too deeply, but it does not run consistently, and never has. Once the thing is warm, it does not start well, and will not run well once it starts. Hate that thing.

 

I have my saws set right on the edge of 4 stroking and only have to adjust with elevation changes from home to camp. A 2000ft change will run a tad rich, nothing significant maybe a 1/16 of a turn. I don't know how long it's bee since a carb rebuild. Maybe the diaphragm is starting to stiffen up. I think those run the walbro hdb carbs. The aftermarket k10 rebuild kits can be found for around 5 bucks.

 

Time to upgrade to a Stihl ?

 

Cold air has more oxygen and will make an engine run lean. I adjust my saws to run right in cool/cold weather. They may end up a little rich in summer conditions, but I do very little serious cutting in temps above 60/70 degrees. Fat saws far outlive lean saws!!

 

All those things can affect the carb settings on these saws. So to answer your question I would say yes that it is no big deal if you have to adjust the carb when ever you cut. I never go cutting without some adjusting tools for the carb because I know that those things will affect the tuning.

Now I will say that maybe I am a little more particular than the next person and some saws are more sensitive than others but it is no big deal to me to have to tune the saw for optimal performance.

 

Exact opposite here..........................starts easily warm or cold...................ran her out of fuel once.................has never happened again. Starts warm or cold for me.................but I know how to start her in those situations. Love this saw.

 

Very well could be possible. I know Dad never did it; and neither have I since it's been my saw for 20+ years now. Will look into for sure.

I've opened up the oiler on this saw, and it does seem to oil. I do have another NIB oiler on hand though.

 

With the big EAB ash loads I've been processing; it's been in the 60's-70's outside, and I've been having to cut much of this wood to length for it to fit into my stove before I split it. I usually role out about 6 or so rounds measure and cut each to length. The rounds being anywhere from 8" to almost 24" in diameter. Don't get me wrong here..................saw is doing great work cutting..............just that when it gets warm, the idle speed DROPS almost to the point of stalling. So I just turn the proper screw a bit to get it to idle a bit more gooder.