Which stove?

Also, most stoves require a pedestal rather than legs) for installation in a MH. Probably has to do with floor loading. As always, read the manual first, then ask questions, then install. Repeat as necessary.

 

That's why I really want to make a decision on a stove before I build. I'm gonna put the wall protection up either way just because some nice tile or stone/brick veneer will look nice. I guess I figured the sheet metal under the durock would cover up the combustible 2x's? If I need insulation there I'll do it a little different the main reason for 2x's was strength...I have 3/4 particle board subfloor covered with half inch particle board underlayment so the 2x's should match in nicely for floor thickness. The pedestal bolts down and makes it more stable because most mobiles are just setting on blocks with no footings etc. etc. And they think the house will fall over and the stove will crush someone. Even though my house is not in a trailer park and is attached to a permanent foundation it gets sucked into this same category. I hate the mobile home approved bs. When people see and read that they think of a trailer with two refrigerators and a washer sitting in the yard and the 40 year old aluminum siding falling off the house. I assure you I'm only gonna let mine look like that to keep my property taxes down!!

 

Again, keep in mind the requirements as spelled out in the code and by the manufacturers. Insulation for the walls is not needed, airspace is. Airspace is not needed for the floors, insulation and ember protection is. Don't get creative until you can verify you meet the minimum requirements.

 

There is insulation you can get to put down under the durock. The only cheap source I found for it is Menards. Tile and brick has littler R value. The 30-NC requires a good R value for the hearth; For me it was going to add $125 to the cost of building my hearth; not a lot in the total cost but I was trying to build on a limited budget.

 

If you do need wall protection to reduce the clearance; you can still have a nice look without a lot of construction; you build a wall protector using 1/4 " or 1/2" plywood, tile it and then use spacers to get the 1" air space. You can also find ready made wall protectors.

 

As stated, first look at the stoves; Home Depot carries 30-NC; call to see if they have a floor sample; Lowe's carries the Madison; The Madison is the Summers Heat line, the 30-NC is the Englander line, both made in USA by the same company. Northern Tools also sells them but probably no floor models. I was in Lowe's the other day and they had no wood fuel stoves on the floor.

Yes, supposedly you are to bolt your stove to the floor; no, I did not do that crazy crap. If a tornado blows through I am in trouble no matter what. If you have insurance, you might need to contact your insurance company; they might have some requirements etc. or want to inspect the installation for insurance reasons.

 

That's a good point on the one inch airspace with the gaps top and bottom. I'm gonna have to rethink the wall...I know I need to make it stronger though...interior walls in MH's are 2 x 3's on 2 ft centers...which is fine since they aren't load bearing but once you start hanging tile or veneers on that especially cantilevered out 2 inches from the stud. All the sheetrock is off the walls in the living room now anyways so a little extra construction is no biggie.

 

Yes, when the house mover and I were discussing the foundation and anchoring I brought up tornados and he told me "if you get a tornado you're f@#$ed no matter what."

 

Greg, the 30 is touted (manufacturer) as a 3.5 cu ft stove. Go measure the box, and you'll find it's approxmately 2.75- 2.8.
Take out the tubes, baffles, and bricks and it's probably at 3.5.

 

Just remember, that the plywood is a combustible, so the clearance is the same. It's all about keeping the heat from any combustible surface. Tile on top of plywood doesn't gain any clearance. Well, maybe a teeny bit, but nothing appreciable.
The underlayment needs to be something like Durock.

 

So, is the 30 your short list?
If so, I can provide the PDF manual, or a link to it. Been there, done it, bought the t-shirt, the cap, a pair of jeans and the socks too.

 

Good post.

Another good one.

 

Newer homes are 2x4 16" OC for all walls; depends on when it was built. You can check with your manufacturer.

 

Yes, what was I thinking. The wall protector needs to be out of non combustible materials; thanks for catching this papadave ; don't want to be confusing anyone.

 

The manual for my stove; which is the larger one:
http://www.heatredefined.com/assets/images/general/15-SSW02.pdf

Just went to Lowe's site for the stove and there is a review there giving it a score of one saying you can not control the burn rate. The person is wrong, I know from use you can control the burn rate with the damper; the person should have contacted the company and talked to them since they may either did not know how to operate the stove or there could have been an issue with the damper. I have had nothing but positive results with customer service from England Stove Works.

 

likely the person - overloaded stove and expected to be able top snuff it out with the damper- I do not know of any current mfg stove that works that way as they all seem to have a couple intakes that are uncontrolled. even my old one from the ninties touted as sealed combustion wasn't ( yep found out the hard way- thought the whole trailer was going to up) nc 30 you can mimimize the dog house air but those secondaries are going to keep on raging till they run out of wood gas. secondary wide open not sure on airwash.

 

Plywood is flamable, it cannot be used for this purpose. Everything on the "hot" side of the 1" space must be non-flammable. Spacers should be as well.

Oops, I see papadave has already stated this. Ditto what he said.

 

Dads right, it doesn't work very well and creates a cold draft

 

Dad is often right, unless of course he disagrees with Mom. Mom is always right.