I am not a contractor, so please don't beat me up too bad, but here is the new woodshed I am putting up. 35 ft long x 8 ft wide x 7 ft high. Should hold some wood
Wow, that is plenty big ... enough for 3+ years worth for me. Look forward to seeing it progress. How long will that keep your indoor furnace going?
Your carpentry looks fine. That giant crack in the corner of your foundation doesn't look too good though.
Woodsnwoods looks good. Only thing id add is some cross bracing to increase rigidity against cross direction shift. Some diagonal struts from the posts to the beam should do it..... Kinda like this
Your woodshed roof looks pretty darned good to me, I agree with some cross bracing to keep things stiff.... As for that Crack in your foundation, your house doesn't appear to be that old and looks to have prefab poured walls? I'd be on someone's arse about that crack!! Keep a close eye on that my friend, that could turn into a major problem...
Agreed, plan to add braces tonight, weather permitting. This is the foundation to my detached garage, and I have been monitoring closely. I had a concrete guy out and they are working up a quote to inject epoxy or cement in and reface the surface also. One more thing on the worry list
Nice shed Woodsnwoods , no prob with the carpentry after braces but how do you plan to level the ground? Maybe a quote from concrete guy to pour a pad?
You gonna love it !!! Dry findable firewood When you put on the roof (plywood / OSB / .... . ) should stiffen it up quite a bit.
Looks really good. Have a few questions and suggestions What type of roof metal or ply with shingles or even metal Looks like 2x8 rafters with close to 2 ft spacing Posts look to be 4x4 with close to 9ft spacing How deep are the sonotubes below ground? Should be close to 4ft. 3ft minimums Syracuse . Are you going to access the firewood from one end only Planning on an overhang at drip line or gutter? No overhang of roof now. How will you stack wood along the garage wall or from the concrete 8 ft out todripline? Suggestions Looks like you notched the rafters around 2 inches To sit on ledger board. That effectively turns a 2x8 into a 2x6 for strength . You could glue and screw a 2x4 beneath the rafters onto the 2x12 attached to the concrete. This would allow the meat of the whole 2x8 to support weight again. If the sonotubes are not deep enough, fill around them to effectively bury them deeper. You might be able to rake soil from garage as long as it does not undermine footing. Or place 2x10s from sonotube to sonotube to hold back fill ( gravel, RCA ) be sure to stake them well between Sonotubes. You could then add more fill to the downslope to help bury sonotubes evenly. And... If you stack from the concrete to dripline you could place a 2x4 verticle from roof beam down to 2x10 on ground and use it to hold the end of each row as you fill with wood. No cribbing required! Great start wish you well Mike
Umm, if the sonotube isnt "deep enough" for an uninhabited space.... burying them with loose fill just in the vicinity will not raise the frost line which the 3' rule is protecting from. Woodsnwoods if the piers heave..... youll have a crooked shed, no big disaster. This is why im sure you didnt need a permit for your structure...
bobdog2o02 this is true but after 1 year ( full year freeze thaw cycle ) don't you think it will firm up fully and offer full protection? all the air in the loose soil should be gone by then. For that first year I would also dump leaves over the filled area for added frost protection and also protect from roof runoff.
No, frost line doest work like that. ... also the leaf idea only works when trying to trap radiant heat, I doubt those piers are making its own heat. All argumeets aside, Woodsnwoods are your piers deep enough for your area? I'm guessing they are. Why use the tube if the holes are shallow?
The Earth is a radiant heater. Man I hope you don't skimp out on the roofing overhang and allow the rain water to run down all over the framing. Remember you can overhang metal roofing up to 6". The further you can get your drip line away from the structure and your wood the better.
The weak point in your structure is the fasteners between the 4x4's and the fascia board. The 4x4's should have been under the fascia board, not attached to it with screws or nails.
