Here she is. An old 066 flattop tuned by NewToStihl and a Shawn Curry special 36" tsumura and custom ground skip tooth milling chain that will be mounted to an alaskan. I borrowed an ash log from the city for the test voyage. It's only 16 inches or so so I feel ridiculously over tooled haha. Hopefully I'll see some dry time tomorrow.
It's done! Boy do you get a face full of heat and exhaust from a mill! That is by far the worst part of it all.
Numb hands too! A good pair of av gloves I've found can make it a little less tiresome. Good work! It will get easier as you learn the little nuances.
First thing I learned: have lots of fuel on hand. Log was 16" at butt and 12" small end. 6.5 feet long. 2.5 cuts and the 066 quit mid cut. I thought she blew as it didn't lean out before running dry like on a crosscut. I told newtostihl to tune it fat, but dayum did she gulp fuel! 2nd thing learned: when your neighbors are 8 feet away and you are drowning out their beer drinking music (ac/dc) expect an audience. 3rd: holy chit what a mess! Keep that chit in the woods....not the suburbs lmao This was just practice and the log was delivered by the city (EAB killed street tree cut down the street dept) is the only reason I did it at home instead of deer camp where I normally cut wood. All in all, lessons learned, no quality wood was sacrificed, and fun was had!
Great thread Chris! I've never milled, but I would assume it's more demanding on chain lubrication than normal cutting due to extended periods of cutting with little-to-no 'free spinning' of the chain which is kind of a chance for the oiler to catch up. Also, a 36" bar has a lot of chain, That said, I'm guessing it may be worth your while to either upgrade to an HO oil pump, or just buy the 2 required parts and make the swap. Again though, since I've never milled perhaps those more experienced will chime in to offer up more valid wisdom.
Here is a pic of the tip guard. It seems to be flinging oil or am I crazy? Shawn Curry Any input for a noob? As far as the ho swap goes...Got some part numbers for me? Is the swap easy for an average guy with average tools? BTW, thanks for the reply. Good to see ya here. Quit lurking
Yeah, I'm obviously not the only one, but summertime is very busy for me and I don't have/take much time for working on saws or participating on the forums... As a matter of fact I DO have part numbers for you! How'd you know I would?!?! If you want a quick "plug & play": High output oil pump assembly = 1122 640 3201 = $69.49 If you want to swap out the two necessary parts to have an HO oiler: Piston pump = 1122 647 0602 = $31.99 Control bolt = 1128 647 4802 = $8.99 Now, to answer your question about how easy the swap is. If by "average guy with average tools" you mean "average guy who works on saws with normal saw-guy tools", then no, it's not difficult. If you really mean average guy with average tools it might be a slightly different story, but it's really not a tough job. In my opinion, the only tricky part would be removing the clutch. Do you have a T27 and a scrench? Have you ever removed a clutch? If not, do you know how to get to Brownsburg?
I know you're busy. Just busting your chops bud. thanks for the #s. I may have downplayed my abilities but I have not removed a clutch. Special tools? I've got all the t27 needed. Air tools, metrics, etc. I'm not opposed to buying tools And yes...I still know where Brownsburg is. Thanks for the offer. If special tools aren't needed, I'm a good YouTube student. What's needed to remove a clutch?
All you need to remove the clutch is either a plastic piston stop or a foot or so of chainsaw starter cord or a similar vinyl rope. Step 1 (ish): Remove the clutch cover, bar, chain, e-clip, washer, rim sprocket, clutch drum, and needle cage. Step 2: Remove the spark plug and rotate the crank so that the piston is rising and stop it just above the exhaust port. Step 3: Insert as much of that rope as you can into the combustion chamber through the spark plug. Step 4: Use your scrench (or, more preferably a 16mm deep well socket and short breaker bar) to rotate the clutch CLOCKWISE (left-handed threads) to loosen & remove it. Step 5: Remove the cover washer & worm gear. Step 6: Use your T27 to remove the two screws that mount the oil pump. Now you'll either replace your oil pump or will swap out the parts to upgrade yours. If you decide to swap the parts let me know and I'd be happy to show you those relatively simple steps.
It's funny you say that. One of my dogs (her name is Carnie) ALWAYS pees on the fresh wood chips in the yard when I've been test cutting on my sawbuck. I think she would freak out if I ever took her to a sawmill...
HO oiler will be better. Over 32" I use an aux oiler of some sort. Dripping on the bottom of the top so it goes right into the cut. That crud on the chain will be baked on. I sharpen as soon as I have to put pressure on it to keep it cutting. I try to set my chain up to self feed. If you get the log off the ground some it gives more room for the exhaust to go away from you.
Great job there bocefus!!! Going by that oily sawdust buildup on the nose guard your oiler is doing fine. I'm diggin' that Super Pro 60 on far right corner of your bench too
Did you cut your bar oil with ATF? I would want to see a little less buildup on the chain. 36" is a lot to oil for an 066 I think - I know the 660 stock oiler is rather stingy. Nice looking boards!
