Here's a little rundown on what I'm hoping to install before fall. Ideal steel, basement install, through the foundation, to a T and then an outside run up the side of the house with class A chimney. An inside run is nearly impossible without destroying half the house. My plan is to remove the framed portion of the wall in the basement and the carpet in that corner. In the picture it will be removed from the left corner to about the basement window, so half the wall approximately. Then I plan to veneer stone on the wall for that entire "half" of the end wall. The hearth will either be raised and veneered or just tiled at floor level, not decided yet. Looks like on the outside of the house I will need a "well" of some sort for the T to be recessed into. I'm okay with installing that, a drain and gravel. I'm looking for recommendations on Chimney brand, install tips like how to get a nice round hole through the foundation and then seal it up and any other advice. The furniture will all be rearranged and I don't want to lose the window for the chimney to run through. We love the light we get from it. Willow, the boxer/Australian shepherd mix will not be included in the install but she does require breaks to throw the ball in her mouth... The outside of this house is getting a major makeover at the moment and no that is not my only pile of wood so far! The bottom pic shows where the T and class A will be, just to the right of that window.
I have an ideal steel thru wall T then class A ... many say it is not ideal setup. ideal would center of house straight up.. for heating I agree.. for cleaning the T makes it so simple to brush the chimney.. Yes put in your choice of window wells corrogated or poly.. make sure when you do to tie it in to your curtain or perimeter drain to prevent water problems what other questions do you have?
How do you seal up the gap in the rough hole through the foundation so that it seals well around the chimney pipe? High temp silicone or something along those lines?
You will need a serious amount of over the pipe clearance on the inside. Keep that in mind before drilling the hole. I can send you a pic of what a filled hole looks like as I have one just over the pipe in my basement wall . You also need to have access to the clean-out which is at the bottom of the tee. It may be a good call to use triple wall from the stove on up to reduce that clearance. Check the codes and manufacture specs on the pipe. I drilled a single 3/8 hole through the wall as a center reference then marked the outside of the pipe diameter with a pencil. Drilled small holes halfway through from each side. Big hammer to clear it out. Go at least a half inch diameter wider to allow free passage of the pipe. Once installed you can wrap the pipe with plastic and mortar around it to seal it out. Pull the plastic before it sets up completely. I think you are going to find that the hole is going to be very deep to accomplish this correctly. One thing I wish I had was an insulated wall at the stove area. I loose alot of btu's warming up my foundation and patio outside the basement. As far as getting the stove pipe high as possible, you could install a heat shield style wall. I did that on the ceiling and it works like a charm. You are in the planning stage now, so you could incorporate that idea, along wth insulating the wall and stone veneer work seamlessly. I am not going to clog this response with those ideas, but ask and ye shall receive.
The wall behind the stove will be removed. There won't be any studs or drywall vertically behind the stove. The area that will require clearance will be the ceiling. The wall will be all stone....at least that's the plan.
If you leave the insulated stud wall and use the proper collar you'll lose less heat to the outside wall, that masonry sucks up heat like a sponge...
I would steel stud the area around the stove to be veneered and insulate with fiberglass. You will benefit from the effort. Use the sand colored hardiboard (not sure of spelling or name), NOT the gray tile backing board. They make it in multiple thicknesses. Might be a good approach to use two layers of thinner material with offset seams. I would guess a thin layer of thinset would act fine as an adhesive. That should make for a solid base to put the veneer stone onto. Your walls will be nearly flush then and you will gain the benefit of the insulation. More work but more better. I use that same backer board to create heat shield walls/ceiling as well. You can put a torch onto it and it has no effect. The gray stuff works too, but when heated emits a vial fume that will drive you out of the house. It does that for weeks, until you remove it and put the sand colored stuff up. Sperience is how I know.
I have an idea on the cleanout clearance in the pit; before you mount the Tee, cut a piece of 3 inch stove pipe into the bottom area near the removable cap, in a horizontal direction. You can get a cap for that size pipe too, and attach a vacuum hose to it when you sweep the pipe. This will negate the extra 6 inches of depth in the pit that you would need to remove the cap when sweeping. Would really limit dust upon sweeping too. Take the idea a little further and put a 90 degree elbow in the 3 inch and bring the vac port up to ground level.
I like the studded wall idea for the stove wall. Never really thought about it but the insulation would be nice. Also if the stone was to ever be removed it would sure be a lot easier. I'd like to rip all the walls and ceiling down actually because the install was not done well. I don't think that will happen though.
