Husqvarna 36 Kicking my A**

Took in a saw from a buddy. An older Husky 36 model. Fuel starvation was the symptom described when I got it from him. Put fresh rubber in the carb, new fuel filter, new tank vent, new impulse pipe, new carb gasket and a bunch of other little cosmetic stuff. I now have the saw where I can get it running but only at idle. Any throttle input bogs it and if it overcomes the bog it starts to take off a bit. Manual says 1/2-2-1/2 turns out on the L needle. I need at least 3 to get it to run at all. The carb had some fines in it when I put new diaphrams in it. Sprayed ports with brake clean and shot some air through it. Am considering replacing the carb as they are relatively cheap.

What am I not thinking about? Anyone fight with one of these little Huskies? Tips?

 

You probably already checked this but is the exhaust port or muffler plugged up?

 

I had the muffler off it, everything seemed fine there....other than being a bit restrictive...planning to open the muffler a little after I get the saw running. Thank You for the suggestion.

 

Sounds like you were able to check top end when the muffler was off - how is the compression? Sometimes using compressed air on a carb can force debris into a jet. I use a very thin wire and gently clear the jets when I spray carb cleaner, rather than use air. Did you remove the high and low adjustment screws when you cleaned the carb? New spark plug and gapped to spec? Getting strong spark? Could be bad crank seals - I had a 55 behave in this way and the clutch size seal was shredded. When you pulled the muffler, did you check the spark screen to make sure it is clear? Cheers!

 

Can still see machine marks on piston, showed 138psi, did not remove H&L screws, same spark plug, but showed good fire when tested, I'm hoping it's not leaking air...I have no way to test, had muffler completely apart and ran screen on wire wheel to clean carbon deposits off it.

That's why its whooppin me...pretty sure I did everything right? Gonna pull the intake back off and have a look around. Maybe somethings pinched or misaligned?

 

You could try pulling H L screws and ultrasonic cleaning. These carbs fit a 36 to 142 Husky. If you hit an auction right, you can get one for $5.98 shipped. Buy it now is $10-$12.

 

Had the same symptoms with the 141 that I got from basod, he cleaned the carb (including ultrasonic) and put a kit in it before I got it. I cleaned it again, no change. Put a new carb on, and it ran great.

 

Like Bushpilot noted above these carbs do not respond to cleaning - ultrasonic or otherwise.
If you look behind the throttle plate there are 3 IIRC progressive jets.
What you are describing is the exact same symptom that 141 had, run, idle, feathered to 1/2throttle, die at WOT....buy a new carb

 

I had a carburetor on ebay in a background window at work today, which is where I was fiddling with it. I believe I had a breakthrough after tearing the carb and intake back off. I pulled the carb open again and the diaphragm didn't look right to me. When I put the carb kit in I put the new ones back in just as the ones on it were. It was upside down.

So I only had a few minutes to mess with it before leaving for the day and just confirmed that it would take a tune and throttle input. Felt stupid and relieved at the same time. Someone monkeyed with this saw before I got it. The gasket on the intake side of carb was not present at time of teardown.

From the little I ran it, I think it'll stragiten up real nice. I still need to find a 16" bar for it. .325 .058 seems odd to me but that's what the specs call for?

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I may yet still need some help. Will report back when I get time to play with it again.

 

hopefully its still running great?

 

I'm trying to keep it on the cheap...i have a limited budget (set by owner, otherwise idve got a new fuel tank) And the bar for it will mostly kill that off. Did some cosmetics...new chain catcher, added a little factory spike that it was missing, replaced some missing fasteners and whatnot, bar plate was chewed up letting the bar oil drain straight down instead of into the bar which by the way doesn't have oil ports on it??? Never seen this before?

 

Glad to hear you got it running!

Nice speed trip BTW

 

Sounds strange...bar with no oil ports? Post a pic. I can't imagine running anything but 3/8LP on this saw. Check drive sprocket = could be a mismatched bar. Find a broken Poulan on CL - give them $5 for it - sand, dress and paint bar.

 

Thanks! It's actually a Street. Was my first road motorbike and looked at both. Went with the 675 for my beginner status. It's got more than I'll ever use. One of the true joys of my life is a nice ride on some curves with it.

 

The power head is running great. It now has an oiling problem, which I will look at tomorrow. I can't say for certain that any oiling is taking place, if so it is very little.

I wish it had a primer bulb to help starting, it takes a few pulls. When it starts, all is good.

 

I don't have a good pic of the bar other than when I was trying to ID it. I left everything at work, so I'll get a pic Monday.



Spec for the saw

 

160SDEA041 is 3/8 LoPro .050, probably 56 DL. And does it look rough! I dunno if you can dress the rails down enough to get smooth chain flowing. The chunk rusted out under DEA0 looks troubling. But I'd try grinding/heavy grit sanding rails smooth and see if you have enough driver depth left.

 

Without some serious help, that bar is toast. It's supposed to be .050, but a .058 fits right in it. .050 gauge will pivot about 30* when in the channel...maybe someone can make a machete out of it? Even if I could close it up and dress it, I'll bet the temper is long gone out of the steel from being hot.

 

Guessing it oils through the unused adjuster hole. I have an older Echo that works that way.

It's not a great pic, but I would guess that's just missing paint.

 

If the channel is wallowed out, waste no time and recycle it.