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Gravel for driveway?

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by Beetle-Kill, Aug 3, 2014.

  1. StickBender

    StickBender

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    I have wondered about the millings and sealing as well?
     
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  2. stuckinthemuck

    stuckinthemuck

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  3. jeff_t

    jeff_t

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    Millings won't tighten back up like a road. That would require heat as well as rolling.

    The majority of asphalt millings around here go back to the plant and get recycled into more asphalt.
     
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  4. jetjr

    jetjr

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    I was just wondering if it would bind them some. Same around here for millings. They are somewhat expensive imo.
     
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  5. nate

    nate Banned

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    Here we mostly use D1 for driveways. Its 1" down to fines and when rolled it packs well. Runs about $10 a ton.
     
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  6. Beetle-Kill

    Beetle-Kill

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    Talked to some people at another quarry, but one I deal with weekly, so they're going to offer me options, based on what works around here. I'll update when I have some more info. - stuckinthemuck, thanks for the link, good stuff. JB
     
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  7. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    I wonder if this will help anyone. I worked at a swimming pool company a long time ago and we sold calcium carbonate to adjust the pool water. We spread the remains of the broken bags on the dirt driveways and worked well. Reminded me of dirt roads with used auto oil on them. The first year or so they also act as built in ice melt.
     
  8. nate

    nate Banned

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    Calcium chloride or mag chloride is commonly used on dirt roads to cut down on dust. Its pretty expensive.
     
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  9. jeff_t

    jeff_t

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    My guess is that it would be messy. But I really don't know.

    It also really helps to tighten the roads up after grading. My road goes to limestone about a half mile down, and the haven't put any chloride down the is summer. It shows.
     
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  10. jeff_t

    jeff_t

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    What about crushed concrete? Around here it is graded the same as limestone, as far as size goes.

    The sucky part is picking out all the metal. No matter how good the plant setup is, it always ends up with some wire in it.
     
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  11. jetjr

    jetjr

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    @jeff_t you could use recycled concrete and cap it with cr6 or millings. Still have to pick out the metal though.
     
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  12. nate

    nate Banned

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    Yeah with a bunch of weight it can really pack in tight too. They use it on the haul road (Dalton highway) up north and it's almost always better than the paved sections. Pavement doesn't hold up well because of all of the frost movement.

     
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  13. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    Using an old thread....

    Beetle-Kill , did you do something for your driveway? If so, what did you use?

    Hi guys:)

    We still have not done anything here, driveway is out of control this spring. I have a cement patio being poured out back next week, Cement guy is recommending ground used asphalt, WWW thinks it will just sink in the mud.... I was thinking at minimum have the guy grade and tamp down the dirt in the driveway (our driveway here is pretty flat). Any ideas or suggestions?
     
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  14. Viking80

    Viking80

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    Rolls of fiber "cloth" to separate current driveway and the new stamped gravel on top? Should hold up a while a least. Especially if the ground is stabile (i.e. "Old soil").

    Mind you, a down side to gravel is sand/dust drug into the house (?).

    Also; don't forget drainage.


    Sent from my iPhone so pardon any autocorrect bollocks
     
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  15. Gasifier

    Gasifier

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    Just read through this thread. Glad you brought it up again wildwest. :yes: Over the next year or two I am building the road from the main county road to our camp. It's a pretty long one, probably around 900 feet of old section I have opened back up that needs to be done, and is going to cost me some money. Luckily I was able to get a bunch of cheap fill and I am building it up in height right now. A lot of repeated driving over it with a full, heaping load in the front bucket and then back dragging with the 210C. It will take a while, but it is packing down nicely. I will need to put stone down on top for a good sturdy road. I am going to read the forest service stuff. But am interested in anything I can learn.
     
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  16. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    I used some of that reclaimed asphalt at the cottage and would use it again in a heartbeat! Only thing is, it wasn't for a drive but for a base for a storage shed. Not prep, just laid it on the grass and placed the shed on it. Very little settling after 6 years. It compacts real nice.
     
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  17. jeff_t

    jeff_t

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    Asphalt millings are probably your best option. If you have some really bad spots and can get crushed concrete, a base of 1"x3" rock will definitely help. Whatever you do, have enough brought in to build it up and get a crown graded on it so water can run off.

    Last year, a friend got a bunch of millings when they were resurfacing a couple of streets in town. He borrowed a tri-axle dump from his stepfather and hauled it himself. All it cost him was fuel. The city was happy to have another truck on the job hauling material away for free, and he now has an awesome driveway.
     
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  18. eatonpcat

    eatonpcat

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    Same here...When the resurfaced my street, they gave all the millings to the guy that let them use his property for staging their equipment. He sells it cheap, I just don't like the look when it's used for driveways (for some reason).
    I use 304
     
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  19. jeff_t

    jeff_t

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    I don't care for the way it looks, either, but when it's free and you have a quarter mile long driveway that turns to mud when the sun goes behind a cloud, it looks great.

    Around here, people that can stockpile it sell it for more than limestone :confused:
     
  20. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    I do not care what any of the above look like, as long as it helps with mud control. I will add a pic soon and you will :hair::eek: