Time for a woodshed. I'm not a carpenter but count myself as fairly handy. After looking at hundreds of woodshed pics on Google here is what I ended up with. Almost finished - A few more braces and then adding the roof (metal) and it will be done. It's built with pressure treated lumber using 4x4 posts, 2x8 headers & footers, 2x6 rafters, 2x4 purlins Posts sit on concrete pads (not buried). It's all screwed together using mostly 3 5/8" Timberlock screws. Dimensions - 16x8, 10 feet high in the front, 7 feet 4 inches in the back - giving a 4/12 roof pitch (if I calculated right). Once the roof is done it will have 2 foot roof overhand front and back and 16 inch overhang on the sides. Not yes sure on which way to stack - N\S or E/W? , I'm leaning towards stacking E/W, and calculated in it holding Five 16-foot rows of 16" splits, stacked to ceiling. That's with 4" of space between each row for air flow. This works out to about 5.8 cords of wood - about 1.5 years worth of burning for me. Tools used: Tape measure Cutoff saw Battery powered drill 5 foot level A few clamps One concern is wind moving it - doubtful once filled with wood but frankly, I'm not sure? I may look to somehow attach it to the ground. Perhaps four holes (at\near each corner), each filled with concrete and a 6-8 foot steel rebar rod pounded into the ground, bolting the footers to the rebar? Any thoughts? Gpsfool
Gps, once filled it won't go anywhere. . if you want you could drive some posts in at corners and screw them to joists.
Looks exactly like what I'm looking to build. Gpsfool. What are the material costs on something like that ? 500$?
Stacking could be done either way it appears. Another thought on anchoring it is using some long earth anchors. We put up a barn, which really was one of the steel carports but we made it into a barn and they usually use just some long rebar but we put in several earth anchors. If memory serves me, we put 6 of them in and they are 4' in length.
one advantage to n/s loading is access to leftover wood not being in the back rows, depending on how you finish the walls and provide access.
I'm glad you have good sized front and rear overhangs. Especially the rear. If the wood is dry before going in the shed, no real need to leave a gap between the rows. How close is this to the house? You'll be real happy not having to fight through snow, ice, and tarps next winter.
Oops - I only used Timberlocks for the headers and footers - stuff attached to the 4x4's. Yea that would be expensive. Elsewhere I used 3" wood screws. Shed is about 25 feet off the back deck of the house Total cost will be ~$800.
Looks nice. I sped red through it but didn't see where you had the joists listed anywhere? Are the 16" or 24" OC?
Just a couple suggestions for you. Not being critical. And they may be overkill. On the side overhangs you may want to add a board at the ends underneath the roof purlins to tie them all together. Maybe another 2x8 or even just a 2x4, standing up on edge of course, underneath them. And underneath your decking. They look like 3/4" thickness? Are your main flooring supports 4 feet apart from front to back? The distance from front to back is 8 feet? If so, you may want to tie the decking together in the middle somehow between the main "beams" if 4 feet apart. Wet wood is really heavy! To make it stand up for years to come. For your supports going the other way, place a P.T. block(s) right in the middle of the span so any flexing will make it bottom out on the ground. Again. Might be overkill. But our leader goes by the same name. Scotty Overkill Very nice. Can't wait to see the final pictures with the roof!
Looks nice-my only suggestions would be to shadow board the sides as it will only add minimal add'l cost and it will keep it dry from sideways blowing rain yet still allow for maximum airflow and face it south. I trust you plan to leave the back open? Real nice looking work!
Gotcha on the screws vs Timberlocks, if you are planning on metal roofing (assuming so based on your purlins) check into using PT direct to metal. I think that is to be avoided for corrosion reasons. It will be a good looking shed no matter what you do. I'd add a back and sides that are nicely gapped to make stacking simpler. Put in that middle wall too.
Oh and place a 2x4 center post in the middle from front to rear to act as catch for each row at the halfway span point. Calculate them to catch the center of your usual split length and allow say 4" between your rows. That should keep your stacks tight yet allow nice air flow.
That could be 8-10 tons of wood when full. I'd be more worried about the floor joists holding Very nice shed, Gpsfool!! cant wait to see the finished pics. I'd like to have the same for storage
!!! AWESOME !!! You be so happy with it, Great jobs, anchor it down if you think you'll ever empty it but I agree that the wood will weigh it down plenty. Nice the way you tied in the roof rafter, roofs tied together & anchored good all the way down Will look ever "AWESOMER" when full Great job !