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Cheap welding machine

Discussion in 'Everything Else (off topic)' started by mattjm1017, Mar 3, 2016.

  1. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    I'm considering buying a cheap 120v welding machine for around the house just to play with and do a little welding nothing big or super serious. Is anyone familiar with the refurbished models that are for sale at northern? I found one at harbor freight but I'm not to sure about buying one from them.
     
  2. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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  3. fishingpol

    fishingpol

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    If you are talking a wire feed, I would recommend one with adjustable dials for the voltage and wire feed rate. The rocker switch ones can be limiting on your options. There are lots of welders here that will offer better advice than me. Have fun.
     
  4. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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  5. TriumphRob

    TriumphRob

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    Look on craigslist, I got a like new Lincon 140 for 300.00
     
  6. rottiman

    rottiman

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    Lincoln has a 140 kit complete. They are currently selling for 499 up here unknown down in your area. Everything you need for either flux wire or gas feed. Good dependable little adjustable machine that will probably do anything lightweight you will be tackling around the garage. Runs on 120v 20 amp.. I have one and love it. Just got done doing a major repair on my buddy's snow blower for his Husky Tractor......:thumbs::thumbs:
     
  7. tractorman44

    tractorman44

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    I'm not familiar at all with the Northern Tool or Horror Fright brands. I'm partial to Miller and Lincoln in stick or mig. The thing to be concerned with will be the availability of consummables like the replaceable tips and the shield that slips on over the tip. Northern may change supplier of their machines after a couple/three years and the supply of those parts may also dry up. Those components are not all interchangeable from brand to brand.

    With a major brand, there is always going to be a supplier nearby. Not to say they will continue to stock all the parts to an older or outdated machine, but they should be able to provide options around the issue if necessary.

    You probably would be ahead of the game if the one you purchase has the capability to used either shielding gas OR flux cored wire instead of only one. Of course with the shielding gas, you'll have the additional expense of purchasing the tank. With flux cored wire a tank and flow meter is not necessary.

    Of course I'm not a welder nor do I play one on TV.....
     
  8. Minnesota Marty

    Minnesota Marty

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    I have a Hobart either 160 or 190 can't remember exactly. It does everything I want it to do. I am not a welder but that thing sure makes me look good.
     
  9. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    I should also state that I know nothing about welding. I've played around with a stick welder a couple times it that's about it. I don't know about flux or mig or anything.
     
  10. Beetle-Kill

    Beetle-Kill

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    Ok, stay away from the Harbor Freight stuff. I don't know anything about what N.T. is offering, so check the warranties they offer.
    Look for a Lincoln SP-100 or better. Dial controls, flux or solid wire compatible. Make sure the liner is set up for .035 flux-core and you're good to go with solid wire-.023-.030 (don't go bigger). Regulators are pretty cheap, about $120, tanks cost more, about $240 + fill for a "Q" tank of 75/25.
    The SP-100 is a solid little MIG, I've had one for over 25 years. Miller, Hobart, they make great machines also. If I can help, feel free to PM me, I'll be happy to lend some input. I'm the office manager/ estimator for a welding-fabrication company in Co., so I've seen what works and what doesn't. JB
    edit- I'll throw this out 'cause I'm swamped at work and don't check in here as much as I'd like to. Shoot questions to [email protected]- I'll see them for sure.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
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  11. shaggy wood dump hoarder

    shaggy wood dump hoarder

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    Definitely go with an adjustable welder, preferably one with a digital display for settings if possible so you can write down settings for uphill, horizontal, and flat welding, or for different joints and material thicknesses also different gasses can give you more desirable welds, I just switched from 75/25 to a98/2 and my welds at home look a lot closer to the welds I lay at work, although it's a lot hotter than even I care for, a bottle of 90/10 would be perfect for me. Welders are pretty low maintenance but if you don't take a little time to ask you can end up very frustrated very fast over problems with feed issues porosity burning up consumables so on and so forth. The welder I bought from a buddy was $1400 new if I remember right, an esab, it does a good job but I can not stand, I repeat can not stand! That it doesn't have a digital read out for voltage or even wire feed speed, just 3 adjustable knobs one for voltage 1-10 wfs1-10 and range 1-3 capable of welding pretty much any thickness.
     
  12. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Matt, two things here. How thick and what material do you want to weld? Next, you need to think, Gas bottle, flux core, Argon, CO2, and lastly $$$ "IN MY OPINION" I like the Millers or the little Hobart's for home use. The Hobart's can be found fairly reasonable at Tractor supply and they will stand behind them! Also Miller now makes Hobart. Again, "MY OPINION" stay with a name brand. If you buy something from harbor freight, or some place like that most stuff comes from china and if it craps out, your $CREW@D! Also, what I would do instead of running in circles is go to a welders supply store and talk to the guy's or Ladies there, tell them you wants and needs if you have one a reasonable distance away, It's worth the time !!!
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2016
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  13. tractorman44

    tractorman44

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    X'2.... Some VERY good points sir.
     
  14. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    Ok so Im looking at welding some pipes together to make a mailbox stand they are about 1/8-1/4" thick, and then just little odds and ends really I dont have anything over 1/4" thick. I want to experiment with a rocket stove this summer so there will be some welding on that and it is all 1/8" or thinner. I really appreciate the response here there is a lot of good advice. One big thing for me is I dont know what Im doing so this will be something Im playing with and pretty much just teaching myself. My Dad is a welder but he doesnt get out here much and we cant talk a lot (schedules are nuts) so I will be on my own with this for the most part. I dont want to put a lot of money into this but Im willing to wait if I need more money to get something better. I dont think I want anything that requires gas bottles just straight electric.
     
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  15. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    Oh and what do yall mean by wire feed flux core and mig? What is the difference? I was thinking sticks are all I need but I could be wrong?
     
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  16. Bret Hart

    Bret Hart

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    I have a training book (PDF) I could send you if you'd like. It's called welding for dummies, no insult intended, and I got it to help train new Techs that needed help. Pretty informative.
     
  17. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Ok, lets look... Mig, "Metal Inert Gas" is basically a spool of wire either in a machine or on a gun. It is feed through a tip which is electrified and as soon as it touches the other metal, creates an arc instantly at about 6000* +- and you weld your two pieces together. As your wire is feed, you move along.
    "Stick" arc welding, consists of a consumable electrode which does what the Mig does but your rod is the "filler" metal vs the wire feed. The "stick" has flux on it which burns off and creates a protective shielding gas around your liquid metal. The wire feed system needs either a "gas" from a bottle such as CO2 or Argon just to name a couple or flux core, "which" the flux is inside the wire. You must have a shielding gas for a good weld. Oxygen is "Very" bad to have into a weld, it creates porosity which weakens the weld and makes it porous, your weld will look like Swiss cheese. "Usually" a Mig unit is much faster and can weld thinner materials easier. "I" prefer the stick welding, only because it's easy, cheap and effective. Mig units are generally for more production work. I have three welding machines and 90% of the time I use the stick. There is also "Tig" welding, "Tungsten Inert Gas", no need to go there yet unless your building MC frames, roll cages or some very fine detailed work. I used to weld aluminum boat towers together for years and that is the preferred method, It's clean but slow.
    Hope this helps!
     
  18. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    Thanks Dave that helps a lot:yes:I think I will look for a stick welder that is affordable that sounds like it would work best for my needs. There is a welding supply shop not to far from me I think it's an arcet I'll stop in there one day and talk to them. I'm in no hurry for this just starting to do some research on the stuff but I would like to get going with it this summer after I'm done with school.
     
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  19. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    One thing I forgot to mention about the "stick" welding process is; It's much more portable that the other processes! I'll you need is a lead and ground. :) I have a gas powered Hobart welder/generator, there a bit pricey but you have the best of both worlds! The Hobart Champion 145 is a "SUPER" machine for stick and you can get one for about $1750.00 and will weld up to about 5/8" plate all day long!
     
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  20. tractorman44

    tractorman44

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    Looking at this from another angle, if you really aren't in a monstrous hurry to begin your new hobby AND are in a semi-rural area I would suggest perusing local auctions through a site called 'Auction Zip' with the tag word : Welder. Many times I see Lincoln 225 "cracker boxes" go as low as #30 or $40. Seldom do they exceed $100...at least here in the center of the midwest. Better a/c-d/c welders go a little higher and some newer mig, tig or stick machines go really high.

    Now I'm not recommending 'on-line' auctions, these are auctions you have to go to and see what you are bidding on. If you're not really into auctions, maybe just schedule an entire Saturday to waste on one and just go be a spectator. Some amazing bargains are available as well as a lot of hoodwinking if you are not careful....Just don't wave to a buddy across the crowd or pick that irritating bugger in your nose at the wrong time.....

    Once you figure out the process and develop your bidding limits, stick to it and you will be surprized at the outcome....and just remember you don't HAVE to buy this particular one, because next week there'll always be another. The crowd is what determines the auction prices, and you can usually tell within the first half hour the direction the prices are going. I do my part to keep prices lowwwwwww. I won't bid a penny over what price I want to pay and many times th bidding will start out way over my top dollar. There's always next week though.......
     
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