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Insulation

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by mattjm1017, Feb 21, 2016.

  1. schlot

    schlot

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  2. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    Oh yeah it was easy too my father in law came over and helped we got it knocked out in about 30 minutes. I plan to finish it up tomorrow morning and then get the Sheetrock guy here in the next week or two.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2016
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  3. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    Sure would like to have seen the paper edges of that insulation stapled to the face of the wall studs. And just a slice in the fiberglass where the horizontal electric runs are.
    No biggy though, The job is all done and now the worst part (for me) starts! Ugh-drywall!

    What did that room use to be? Garage? Looks like the ceilings are pretty tall and the one window is kinda high is why I'm asking.
     
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  4. papadave

    papadave

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    Maybe you plan to do this, but before you staple it all down, cut out for the outlets but take a piece of insulation slightly larger than those boxes and slide behind 'em.
    If left the way they are,.......big chance for cold air infiltration, and heat loss.
    Also, instead of putting the insulation behind the wiring, slit the insulation so that it fits around the wire. Those wires look way close to the stud face. Consider using plates on the studs in front of the wires, to keep nails or screws from penetrating the wires.
    You got a lot of work done....nice job.
     
  5. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    Never fear I am going back and stapling it all the way down and splitting it around the wires and cutting around the receptacles. Originally the room was a garage when the house was built that doesn't explain why the window is so high though at least not to me. The ceiling is 11 ft. The original owners (I'm the second owner) had it closed off and built a raised floor in the room on 2x6s with a double layer of 3/4" plywood. We ripped the floor out and found the original concrete floor to be in excellent condition. We tried to stain the concrete it turned into a huge mess and isn't sticking very well so we're going to put in a hardwood floating floor sometime in the future. As far as the drywall I'm hiring that work out I don't have the time or the patience to deal with it.
     
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  6. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    I'm doing all of the above except for maybe the nail plates. The wire is further into the studs than it appears I'm going to talk the guy putting in the Sheetrock and see what he wants to do I know it won't hurt to put them in so we'll see how it goes.
     
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  7. papadave

    papadave

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    Good choice to have a crew do the DW.
    They'll be done in a jiffy, and you can move on to other things.
    Good info on the wiring. I feel better.:thumbs:
     
  8. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    Yeah I'm hiring out the sheet rock and some minor framing of a new closet and pantry for the Mrs. I'll get some pictures up of where that stuff is going. I'm building it over the original brick steps that we are abandoning.
     
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  9. Butcher

    Butcher

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    I guess I'm the odd man out here. I spent quite a few years in the construction trades. We most generally would do the whole house from footing to peak. When insulating, we never ever used Kraft faced insulation. Always friction fit batts and 3 mil poly stapled to top and bottom plates. Must be a regional thing?
     
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  10. schlot

    schlot

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    Equally as good in my book. I typically do belt and suspenders and add poly to kraft faced.
     
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  11. Redfin

    Redfin

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    I insulated our garage last year, stapeled to face of stud only to come home to see thre drywallers had pushed the edges in to glue the boards to he studs. :hair:
     
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  12. mattjm1017

    mattjm1017

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    I got everything stapled and tucked in nice and neat around the wires and receptacle boxes. I've got a guy coming Tuesday to start the sheet rock and framing so hopefully maybe one day this room will be done. I'll probably start a new thread for the whole room since this one is really just about insulation.
     
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  13. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    Butcher that now a days will not meet minimum building code in my state.. probably why cannot buy new home here less than 250K.. Sad really
     
  14. schlot

    schlot

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    A poly vapor barrier doesn't meet code?

    I think the Energy Code states 4 mil poly is fine. What are they asking beyond that?
     
  15. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    Require a blower door test.. I would have to look up new code. In regular attic space 2 inch spray foam to seal leaks then 2 feet of blown in cellulose on top..

    R60 in any ceiling and a blower door test which you need for new .. not possible to achieve negative pressure they want if you put staples in poly.. air infiltration if doing blown in attic all extrusions need to be silicone and a gasket on opening minimum... Normal builders here silicone every wood joint of framing then glue exterior board... they try to build 2 foot on center as 2 bys have have r value of 1 .. they place 2 inch polystyrene over in then tuck tape it then vinyl.. You replace the shingles and house moves as you put bundles on it.... Gee why is there mold issues in all these house where normal summer humidity is 80%.
    Oh any new furnace install on new construction has to be 95% efficient or higher just took oil out of as an option so you have to go propane...

    Tenants get mad cause I cannot gut and rebuild without bringing 200 year old building up to today's code.. not financially feasible
    In most city over 30k people you cannot change an switch cover PLATE...without an electrical permit and master electrician sign off..

    I can go on and on..then the complain there is no affordable housing... law of unintended consequences..:headbang::headbang:

    Have you not read about Bernie Sanders this states senator... Our biggest city mayor for 20 years it all sound great and he cares. But the numbers don't work.. Burlington city has a livable wage that means no matter what you do or where you live if you are a city employee or contractor you have to earn a livable wage... I think currently at 25 an hour to start ... I got to stop now.. but if the guy that mows the lawn makes 25 what does the secretary make etc.
     
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  16. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    mental note...add Vermont to list of states not to move to.....
     
  17. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    Dave, your right it's sad.. 50 years ago this state was run by farmers... Never met a farmer without sense! state government started in December and done for sugaring season. now.. Now City of Boston and NY move up here and try to improve it..

    No joke, 8 years ago I built some condos in town had to pay an environmental engineer to design waste water removal 4500 dollars for plans and stamp.. it was city water and sewer! literally plans were lot size 2 inch waterline going in and sewer line going out with pitch...

    They wonder why all young kids leaving..
     
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  18. schlot

    schlot

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    I shake my head at regulations like that. Designers are forced to design to extreme standards and to meet regulations that too many times are arbitrary and at times unneeded.

    The use of retention ponds and rain gardens is another example. Everyone wants them but has no idea to what standards they need to be built (and why) and what the cost will be.

    My thought is that before bills get enacted our elected officials need to determine the actual cost of what they are putting down on paper.

    Rant over.
     
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  19. bogieb

    bogieb

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    That is crazy! I wonder if they take crayon drawings - I could make a mint just charging a couple hundred bucks to draw up city water / sewer plans.
     
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  20. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    No you need to have a stamp like a notary on it.. the on site sewer plans are just as bad they only accept 4 designs all mound just number of bedroom for size difference ...

    Did not mean to :Yar: your thread mattjm1017
     
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