First Fire In New Stove Guidelines Please

Actually no, I have read on the forum here that the wood needs to be dry, down to xx moisture; I think between 10 and 20 percent if I recall correctly. That is why I started with this dead locust; because that tree has been dead for six years at least; standing up off the ground. I cut it back in the fall myself and split it and stack it and covered it. So to me, if that wood is not dry then no wood is. If others come on here and say, "No Kimberly, that locust is probably not dry" then I will agree.

 

I have not heard of trees ever being an issue regarding the draft. Are they evergreens? When the wind blows, are you sheltered completely by the trees?

 

Yes, I forgot my happy dance:

 

The trees are along the edge of the back garden along the end of the house. I am actually surrounded by trees. The chimney sits in the middle of the backside of the house. I think the main concern is that the stove requires 15 feet of chimney and I only have nine feet.

 

Some really high BTU woods like Locust and Oak can be better utilized by loading on hot coals...sometimes a bear to get going with a cold start fire

 

Thank you.

 

I can not test the poplar for moisture but could try burning some in the third burn and see how it does. I am suppose to do three first burns; letting the stove cool between burns. I have done two now.

 

Uh..........

Wood that is dead on the ground, or dead standing for several years is sometimes still not dry enough to burn well. Might depend on the species and/or climate.
Seen, and experienced it myself.

 

I think we're jumping the gun on troubleshooting. Get the break in done then see how it burns.

Did I see fire in Kimberly 's stove?



I think I did!

 

If this was oak, then yes. I've seen water squeeze out (when splitting with hydraulics) of the trunk pieces of oak that had been dead standing for years.
Locust dries much faster than oak so it may be nice and dry. I've never cut any dead standing Locust.

Likely, your fire will be burning nice very soon. Thermometers take most of the guess work out of it. This was your first try- cold stove, cold chimney, damp fire brick, small break-in fire, etc. You will learn A LOT over the next week.
By next fall you will be waiting for some cold weather

 

Oops...I just seen that concretegrazer already mentioned this ^ ^ ^, he also brought up another good point that shouldn't be missed, that a few inches of ashes should be left to build up in there, it will probably take a few days, but EPA stoves run gooder this way!

 

On the way...

 

Score!

 

I don't remember if your poplar trees were dead or not but Poplar dries really fast go get some of that and try it out.
Looks like you had a good fire going in there though.
When getting a fire going it matters how far you have your door cracked open and if you close it abruptly it can snuff the fire right out.
Close your door in increments and experiment, with that.

 

Is the door not closed in your "first fire pic? Sure looks like it...and that fire looks good

 

OK. When I can, I will be testing the moisture. Burning some of the poplar as well.

 

Not completely, bit of a crack in the opening.

 

Thank you so much, currently using a digital meat thermometer.

 

I am on the third burn-in fire. Appears to be doing better. yooperdave I had only coals in the stove and still had smoke spilling out; don't like this.

The damper control is working, I closed it all the way and the flames went complete out, started back up on opening.

I need to know more about what sort of burn I should be seeing with the damper all the way open.

 

I have lots to learn here.