Anybody have a kreg jig?

http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/index.php?threads/what-did-you-get.1779/#post-37652

 

Have and use the Kreg pocket unit also have their miter slide assembly for table saw. I am quite happy with both. Note it helps quite a bit when running the screws in to have the parts solidly clamped in position and use soap on the screws, I use a power drill driver for that. Sometimes it is useful to get a bit creative and drill pilot holes in the screw receiving piece to prevent splitting.

 

I have it and really like it for making tight joints. I used to travel a few towns away to get screws and the wood plugs. Now the local hardware store carries what I need.

I built this bookcase using the jig a few years ago. I like it better than my biscuit joiner.

 

Pete, it's on my wish list. I mentioned it for Christmas, but Santa must have lost it on the way to my house. Probably ended up at Chris' house.
Jon, nice job on the bookcase.
Ply for all the panel work, or did you edge join boards?
I see some hardwood edging on the shelves, so I'll guess ply for all that, at least.

 

Right. Oak ply for the shelves, oak nosing for the front edges. The top is edge joined, salvaged from an antique quarter sawn dining room table top, the sides and back panels are salvaged quarter sawn oak panels from an antique armoir. This piece is maybe about 80% salvaged wood.

One thing about the jig. I tried to save a few bucks and use oak dowels from a box store for the plugs. I could not match the diameter of the dowels to the plugs, so I buy their plugs as they are a very nice, snug fit. Live and learn.

Chris has a point about clamping the pieces before screwing together. I believe they also sell a pocket hole clamp that lets into one of the holes while putting a fastener into the hole next to it.

 

Brother in law has the jig and loves it.

 

Got to look up that pocket hole clamp, be a lot simpler than way I do it. If its a full square frame I have pipe clamps to hold it together. I also have corner clamps for other times. Then every so often ya just got wing it. I think they have a relatively new master set out now.

 

http://www.rockler.com/pock-it-hole-clamp-with-quick-release

I've had the adjacent piece move on me before. I like to make a mark across the two pieces to make sure they are lined up.

 

I have the basic stater kit works as advertised

 

Great tool
I use mine a lot.

 

I use mine on a lot of furniture building. As well as clamping the pieces to be joined, it is very important that the pieces are perfectly square. As far as the plugs, I save scraps from what I am building and make my own. You cut pieces ~ 3 inches long then split pieces off bigger in diamater than needed. Next you run them through a homemade die twice. (1/4 inch hunk of metal with a 7/16 inch and a 3/8 inch hole...use a hammer to drive the pieces through the big hole then the small one.) The resulting dowels are rough and not all will make the grade, but glue holds to rough better than smooth and they are FREE! The resulting plugs also match your finished product better than purchased plugs because it is the same material. When the glue is dry, it is a simple matter to cut the dowels flush and sand. This is the same way dowels were made when barns were constructed with timber framing. Yea, I know it does not work with plywood scraps.

 

I ordered one last night for to assemble some face frames on some kitchen cabinets I'm getting ready to build. I was going to use biscuits but this seems easier. I know a couple guys who have it and they make it seem like they can't live without it.

 

Excellent use for pocket hole screws. On cabinet frames you do not have to use clamps to draw the joints together which makes the job much easier. Just make sure when you screw and glue the frame together it is flat then nail it on with the screw holes inside the cabinets. They also work very well for assembling the boxes. I have a mahogany table my grandparents bought almost 100 years ago. It is held together with pocket hole construction.

 

I've built biscuit joined face frames in the past where the glue joint failed......my fault, but that's another story.
Anyway, a little glue in these joints seems like they'd be almost indestructible.
I had to show my my brother that a modern glue joint, if done right, can be stronger than the wood.
Anyway, has anyone gotten the super duper master set, or is that needed?
That clamp that fits into one of the holes would be da' bomb.

 

I normally just nail/glue the face frames on and fill the holes, but these aren't getting painted. I'm not sure if I'll pocket screw them on or just glue them. TBD.

Wood glue, when used properly, is amazingly strong stuff. There's plenty of long grain wood making good glue contact to just glue the faces on, but some fasteners are good extra insurance.

 

You can either glue and clamp the face frame onto the case, or use pocket holes to attach from inside the cab. Very strong.
You could also, if the case sides will not be seen, do this from the outside so it's not needed to hide. This would save some work.
Watch some of the Kreg vids, ......they do this, and looks very simple. Easy to hide, especially if painting.

 

I ordered the super duper master set. I think the only difference is that it includes the clamp. Should be here Wednesday. I'll file a report.

Milling down stock tonight and tomorrow, so maybe I'll get to use it Wednesday night.

 

Are you getting the #5 or the 4?
I just watched a vid on the 5 and it seems it has better features.