Longer blades definitely push more air by a large factor. Same math that gets you an increasing amount of splits out of rounds as the radius increases. That pi x R squared thing.
Mine are both 60"....I believe. I tried them on low the day I started this thread and it got really hot upstairs. Obviously it will, but the goal is to equalize upstairs and downstairs. Of course every house will react differently, we all understand that.
Wow, that is a big house. I wonder with that long stove pipe (you said single wall) if the flue gas temperatures would be too low before reaching the chimney. OK, cut open an inside wall as close to the highest point in the peak of that room; put in a duct with a fan to pull all that nice heat off of the ceiling; put one on either side. Since you have drywall, this is not big deal, just cut it open, install duct and fan, close it back up, paint, and no one will ever know you opened the wall. Ceiling fans that high up only do so much; get a book on thermodynamics that talks about ductwork and pressure gradients. Think of that huge room as a huge duct with a fan at one end pushing air.
I use my IR temp gun and it measures a fairly constant 180 deg on the stove pipe, dropping some at the top. I like the idea of the duct in the wall. I have duct work for the upstairs HVAC unit on both sides of the room at the ceiling.
It would keep your chimney temps up, 180 on the outside is flirting with the minimum temp needed to keep the pipe creosote free.... Makes the stove run better with better draft too.
I wonder if creosote formation is truly a concern if one is burning dry wood in a modern stove (with secondary burn tubes or a cat). Creosote forms when after incomplete combustion when volatile gasses from the wood cool and condense on the chimney/stove pipe walls. This can happen if the fire is too cool to ignite the gasses or if there is not enough oxygen present during the off-gassing. I've been burning my stove for 3 years. This year, we added an inline 6" chimney damper which has slowed down the exhaust gas as it departs the stove and goes up the chimney thus reducing chimney temps. While one would think that would cause more creosote to form, we actually have less. I believe this is a result of leaving the primary air open more and seemingly giving more oxygen to the fire for a more complete burn. Anyway, I wonder if the old adage of having to have high temps in the chimney comes from poor burning practices. The next concern might be having a high enough temperature to ensure that the water (resultant from combustion) doesn't condense on the interior of the chimney and drip down. I would think that one would have to cool exhaust gasses significantly to have that happen. Anyway, thought I'd share my experiences..
Blaze king encourages double wall stove pipe, with the allready low exhaust temps it helps keep draft going, low chimney temp is a major player for cat stalls. ...
I wonder if they incorporated some sort of "Lambda" controller like some wood boilers use if it would prevent cat stalls while maintaining the optimum exhaust gas flow through the chimney. I do understand that burning a cat stove is different than burning one with secondary burn tubes but I'm just not familiar with the former..
Nope, no lambda. Just a bimetallic damper. I don't even want to imagine what they would charge to add a"controller" to these things.
