In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Optimizing a Craftsman while saving for a "real" saw

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by HighCountry, Jan 26, 2016.

  1. Ken

    Ken

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    Been using a Craftsman for over 30 years. No issues....I will buy a real saw once I can no longer maintain this one. Thank you!
     
  2. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    Liked x2!

    And welcome to the club Ken !
     
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  3. HighCountry

    HighCountry

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    The answer to that is yes, I really want to tinker with it. Thanks for the advice. Do I just buy Tygon with the same dimensions and replace, one for one? I am trying to track down some type of manual for this saw, other than the owner's manual, like a Chilton's or Haynes for autos. I agree to not go too crazy with any modifications or sinking too much money into it, but I do want it to be the best backup I can make it.
     
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  4. Keweenaw

    Keweenaw

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    I'm a chainsaw newb... So my opinion might not be from any place of experience, but I do own a ms271 and I love it. I use it almost every weekend and have not had a single problem with it. I have put trees over 24" in diameter on the ground with it running just an 18" bar with no problems. However I also don't have any place where I could purchase or have serviced an echo, dolmar etc. and I can't say I wouldn't have opted for the better value if it was an option.
     
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  5. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Check the classifieds here. Good saws sell at that print e way better than beat up rentals.

    I am late here but your saw does not look beat or too dirty. BUUUTTTT that chain is BEYOND dull. Probably almost to the point of smoking in the cut. Sharpen that chain and buy a new non safety chain and you will be throwing chips like you could only imagine.

    The kick back would only be worse if you ran the tip into wood with the chain spinning. Keep the tip away from solid objects while running and you won't get kick back.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
  6. dougand3

    dougand3

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    Tygon line is tiny .08" ID for the fuel supply and 3/32" ID for the 2 purge lines. I hate the .08" - it's such a tight fit and can stretch / break. I've refurbed quite a few Poulans and sometimes I just drill tank hole to accept 3/32". I've never seen a Service Manual but once you look at IPL, you really don't need one. Google "Model # IPL" and one will come up in pdf.

    Standard fuel system refurb:

    Poulan Fuel Kit Screw 900.jpg
     
  7. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Yea with an IPL you dont really need one. There pretty simple.
     
  8. Woodscrounger

    Woodscrounger

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    Nothing at all wrong with a craftsman. Spend your time perfecting your filing technique and you will be ahead of 99.9% of expensive saw owners.
     
  9. HighCountry

    HighCountry

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    Found a great local shop today, and they sell a bunch of Dolmars. They were pretty impressive looking, I must say. At the very least, I found a good shop that can help me with service and good fuel, parts, etc.
     
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  10. Kyle Mulligan

    Kyle Mulligan

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    Hey HC. I figure I'll throw my opinion out there because opinions are welcomed on this site. I am a fan of dolmars. I have a 6421, I have used a 5105 and I am re-building a 5100. I think they run strong, use high quality parts and designs and are reliable. I have never bought a new saw but if I ever do I would make sure it was from a dealer that was very knowledgable and respected. I would want to feel comfortable and learn from the dealer instead of me teaching them. Another good option, I saw that you went to HD, do they have a rental department? The 6421 is my go to saw and handles everything I have given it and they sell them when there is little use on them for 1/3 of the cost new. I guess it depends on the particular saw but mine was in great shape, 1 year old, for $275. And finally my favorite option is finding a quality saw in non running condition, either from a dealer or craigslist for cheap. Just make sure parts are available. Tear the saw down find out what you need and fix accordingly. This will teach exactly how the saw works, where the parts are and how to fix your saw. You will know the saw inside and out if/when it needs maintenance or service. Im sure you will make the best decision for yourself when it is time but I figured I would put my 2 cents in. Good luck. By the way, my first saw was a 2010 42cc craftsman. To help me out I put new lines in it, cleaned carb, bought 3 new chains, Opened up the muffler and tuned it. It seemed to help pretty well.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2016
  11. Keweenaw

    Keweenaw

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    If you do buy one, I would love to see a review on it :D
     
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  12. CoreyB

    CoreyB

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    I don't know about a review but I can give a lot of praise on the 6100.
     
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  13. Keweenaw

    Keweenaw

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    What is the stihl saw in your profile pic next to the dolmar?
     
  14. CoreyB

    CoreyB

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    A 192 ce. Need little saw. Just awesome for trail work and limbing. Handles everything 8in and under.
     
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  15. HighCountry

    HighCountry

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    When I was at that shop, they were very interested in teaching me about the saws themselves and making sure that I am putting quality stuff into my current saw, no real pressure to buy, but the offer was there. It was either a ridiculously clever ploy to gain my trust, or they are actually just some good guys wanting to make sure that their customers have a good experience. I am guessing it is the latter. My HD does have rental department, and they actually have a Makita for sale, but I am still shopping around. I was supposed to get some parts that I ordered on Saturday, but I learned the hard way that since I moved back out to rural America, my USPS does not deliver on Saturdays. It has been a while since I lived away from the big city, but I will trade no Saturday deliveries for the peace and quiet any day. Once I get the saw all cleaned up and put back together, I will post some "After" photos, since I already showed my ugly "Before" photos a little while back.
    Whatever saw I decide on, I will definitely let you guys know. As far as a review goes, it will just be my humble opinion, but I will get something out.
     
  16. HighCountry

    HighCountry

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    I am still running the Craftsman, and wanted to ask another question. It came with an 18" bar, but after some thought, I don't really need a bar that long. When I first bought it, I really had no idea what I was doing, and thought that "bigger=better". Chock that up to standard male reasoning. Now, however, I am thinking that if I don't need that length, why not go shorter? The problem is that I do not know how short of a bar I can go to, without causing any issues. I would assume that a 16" is probably safe, but does that gain me anything, in regards to performance? Just some ignorant thoughts to throw out there into Hoarderland. Thanks in advance for any advice.
     
  17. CoreyB

    CoreyB

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    I like a short bar for the ease of transportation and more maneuverable. Also less teeth to sharpen on a chain.
    I like a longer bar for ease of bore felling
     
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  18. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    You can run as short a bar as you want. But you get into the problem that if you want to buck a larger log you have to either over buck it, come from both sides or swap back to the 18.

    You will pick up some speed as there is less drag on the saw from a heavier chain and more friction on the bar.

    You also will have less teeth to sharpen but will sharpen it more than the longer bar since each tooth comes back around and cuts more than a tooth on a longer bar in the same period of time
     
  19. dougand3

    dougand3

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    16" or even 14" bar will work. Those are very standard sizes. 3/8 LoPro .o50 A041 mount. Oregon calls them "91". Oregon 91VXL is a good yellow chain at a good price. 18"=62DL, 16"=56DL, 14"=52DL.
     
  20. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Is the bar n chain ya have on there 325 or 375 ?
     
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