Update on P2

"There's never enough time to do it right the first time, but there's always time to do it over again...."

 

Uh huh
Or in this case the owner got rid of it and paid $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ for a new stove

Seems that happens a lot

 

I need a new car - the ash tray is full!

 

And there are those kind too
The Adv 2T we recently picked up
( Guy called telling me it was a P2 and I bought it as a spare ) was a victim of this same fate

Dealer worked on it twice and charged them $$$$$$$$$$$ for doing nothing but fooling
Told them they needed a new stove

I oiled the combustion fan motor bearings and it runs fine.

Stove is immaculate condition otherwise

These two are backups if we need them
Probably never use them. But if we need them they can go right to work

 

A bit more done today before we had to head to the big city for an appt.

Finished the new scraper and pull ring .

Just need to weld the rod to the scraper before the top goes on.

With the door on the little cast ring will be just out where it can be accessed

 

I found an original brochure from Whitfield on the Prodigy 2

They were rated at from 4000 to 25000 BTU output

Really a tiny unit.

 

UPDATE UPDATE DIT DIT DA DA DIT DA DA, EXTRA EXTRA

The weather is sooo good that I wheeled the Li'l Whit P2 outside and got the scraper rod welded to the scraper now.

I decided to error on the side of caution and unplugged the control panel and completely remove the side panel and sit them away from the unit while welding on it.

The outing was a great time to do a good BLOW with the 120 pound air nozzle too and clean out the fire tubes and all of the little critters innards.

Decided to delve deeper into the mechanical cabinet and check out everything in there.

Soon after I removed the back I discover an extra blower fan relay wedged under the auger motor.

Hmmmmm
The relay is the newer style and so was the extra one.

I will check it out and see if its any good.

Whoever mounted the relay was a doofus.
The relays are supposed to be mounted firmly to a flat metal plate to act as a heat sink.
The relay had been mounted using silicone which is an insulator.
Normally the best stuff to use is heat sink paste (All you geeks know this from mounting heat sinks on processors)

OK
Scraped all the old silicone off down to clean painted surface and the relay can sit properly.

The same moron used a sheet metal screw that was nearly 3" long to fasten the relay

This thing stuck out the bottom of the stove just lurking and ready to rip your hand to shreds while cleaning the little fellow.

Replaced that awful thing with a nice 10/32 Allen bolt with a star washer'd nut.

All better now.

Next step is to get the exhaust casting and fan box apart and cleaned up, then on to replacing the gaskets on the box and the heat tube housing.

The fan motor on the exhaust booster is the new style but I have not checked it out yet.

Gotta make sure it runs smooth and that the poor thing is not the victim of more SNAFU'S

Overall looking good.

Blew out the convection combination fan with the 120 psi
OMG, the crud that came out of the air tubes.

Doing this type of cleaning in the house is a no no.

Buddy of mine has a cute tent he uses when servicing stoves.
He tents the stove, then runs a looooooooong hose into the house from his big vacuum outside.

Next he does the blow thing and all the nasties go out and not make a mess in the customers home.

Sweeeet

Anyway.
With the welding done now I can finish up the rest of the work inside and get the little beast back together.

Still need the fire brick to replace the old style metal back that was there.

Little stove really gonna clean up nice and be a great part of my "Reserve fleet"

The plan is to add a bracket to hold several multiple screw buss bars that will allow me to rewire the entire stove and retro fit it to accept my new controller.

Thinking about installing a round 12 pin mil spec electrical connector and then having the new control as a plug in and go thing.

Decisions decisions eh