In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Replacing balustrade

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by mike bayerl, Jan 9, 2016.

  1. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    Perfectly dismal weather outside, so I finally got started on replacing the balustrade at the top of our stairs. We have been meaning to replace our painted wood one with a natural oak one to match our floors that we put in about 5 yr. ago. I've had the millwork parts sitting around for over a year, but just never got around to it. Today, I began with building up the oak parts and removing the old one. It was going really well until it the half-newel came of the wall. Of course, it was glued to the drywall, so when it came off, it did some damage to the wall. I hadn't planned to have to do drywall repair, but, so be it. Now, we have put up a temporary blockade for a couple of days until the wall is fixed and we can put up the new balustrade.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    It's a start, mike bayerl.....
    How will you anchor the post at this end of your pic? (at the top step)
    How did your parts do after sitting for a year? Nothing twisted up I hope?
     
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  3. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    I was planning to use this method. Stair Parts 3-1/2 in. Unfinished Red Oak Newel Attachment Kit-9400K-312-0000L - The Home Depot Do you have any better ideas? Also looking for ideas for rail to newel connections? I have the hardware for the standard bold system, but I open to other/better ideas.
     
  4. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Will you cap over the exposed area with a nosing or lay base rail straight to it? In other words, the mounting system in the link you provided appears to require some nice meat under it.....
    Now, the op shows a squared out notch in the OSB subfloor- were you planning on dropping the newel back in it?
     
  5. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    I wasn't planning to put the newel through the bbottom board. It will be solid oak, 3/4" thick and 6" wide. Probably just Liquid Nails it to OSB subfloor
     
  6. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Ok. That's good. So the newel bracket kit will attach to this oak. Great. :yes:
    I might choose to attach that new oak board with something more than LN.... Some hidden fastening would greatly prolong the life of your new work.
     
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  7. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Do you have a link for the balustrade kit you've been waiting to install?
     
  8. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    Yes, probably will do that.
     
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  9. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    Not a formal kit. The millwork shop that milled my flooring (HorstCraft Millworks, Richfield, PA), put together the pieces and parts for me, base board, full newel post, 1/2 newel post, spindles, hardware. He knows I can do the rest. They included the L-bracket newel post mounting hardware and standard hidden bolt hardware for the rails. As you said, I'm not wedded to the hardware they provided. I'm more about doing right, so it lasts the rest of my lifetime.
     
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  10. schlot

    schlot

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    I hate newell posts that loosen with age. Belt and suspenders? This kit and your L brackets?
     
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  11. mike bayerl

    mike bayerl

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    Finally got the railing and handrail mostly finished and installed. Still have to finish the moldings at the base of the newels. That's why they look so pale. schlot and Eric VW I wound up using the L-brackets and a hidden anchor system with a hefty bolt that happened to line up perfectly to anchor into the joist below. It's pretty dang solid! Got lucky with the half-newel and laggd it into a stud, too.:thumbs:

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Man that looks AWESOME Mike!!! Sweet!
    :thumbs::yes:
     
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