with these lines in one of the bedroom closets. There was one of those cheap little porcelain light fixtures in there at one point, but it's not there now. The line on the left is 12g, the other is 14g, and there's power to the 12. No power on the 14. The 14 must be to carry power on to something else. How should the base be wired to allow that?
How is the light switched? Is the 14g the switch line or does the light have a pull chain? 1. If the 14 gauge goes to something else there might be a wiring problem. Around here 12 gauge is 20 amp service, 14 gauge it 15 amp. If the circuit has a 20 amp breaker, all the lines should be 12 gauge. 2. How big is the closet? Light fixtures are usually not allowed in small closets, local codes state the size. Assumption is the light can get hot and if there is little or no clearance to shelves, clothes, etc... it may start a fire. It is also in a room that may have the door closed with the light on. The light will not be noticed and has a longer time to do damage. Figure out what the 14 gauge is and we can figure out how to wire it... KaptJaq
Pull chain on the base. 15 A line, which is weird on 12, but I've seen that before. Another bit of weirdness is everything else in the house works (that I know), so that 14 line seems to be the line to nowhere. If anything, it might power a couple hard to access outlets. You're gonna' tell me to crawl up in the attic and find out where it goes, aren't you? I suppose I could just wire nut that 14 off, and hook up the base to the 12. Closet is about 4x6', and that box is on a wall with nothing nearby. No door on the opening.
As a pro I'd wire nut it and be done just like you said. Wrap with E tape too. If you find inoperative fixtures or appliances layer you know where to look first. KaptJaq Btw, the NEC dictates 15 amp min wire is 14ga and 20 amp min wire is 12ga, it's not just around you. It's the code. You can always use 12ga on a 15 amp circuit in case you might ever want to change anything but it's simply over kill otherwise.
Were they both tied together on the light? Sounds like it is meant as a pass through to another light or outlet. You could tie it back in and then use one of those electric sensors you press against the wall and try to follow it.
The funny part (or not) is that I shorted that line and the stove blower shut down. That tells me the switch for the porch light that I tapped into for the blower outlet is part of that circuit. Strange. I'd love to have an electrician come take a peek at the wiring in this house, as I imagine he'd get a pretty good chuckle and a few raised eyebrows as well. Don't know who did it (honest, it wasn't me), but someone doubled up a 20 amp breaker with 12g romex in the panel, ran it down into the crawl, out the bond board, underground, and into a small fuse panel in a shed behind the house. It's non-functioning at the moment. If I remember correctly, that's how it was hooked up, but when I redid that, the light wouldn't work. Lines have been unhooked and capped for a while, so my remembery is fuzzy on that. I'll get a new base and give it another shot.
This all above sound right before they switched the code.. it was common around here to run 12 gauge to outlets and then use 14 to a switch legs. I think the 14 might go to a switch that got buried or not used as pull chain fixture. Not an electrician, but gramps was and spent summers as kid being a helper.. read that to mean when I was small got to crawl spaces..
Not sure of the exact code, I was only a grunt for a couple of years on construction sites. And that was a long time ago. That said I was told to never mix gauges in a circuit. Even if the lower gauge wire can handle the current breaker, in the future somebody might only see the higher gauge piece and up the breaker for a different application on that run. KaptJaq PS: papadave , I agree, wire nut that 14 gauge unless you find where it goes and need it. KJ
KaptJaq That is a bit of a no no too. Unless you've seen all the pieces you should not change breakers. But your right, never know what someone without the knowledge, and the common sense to ask a question might do. papadave gooder for you to ask than be ignorant.
Sounds like your house was wired by the same guy who wired my place up that way. First time I swapped a light fixture I got poked. I just had the switch off, not the breaker (yeah, I know, always shut off the breaker first, but the breakers weren't labeled worth a darn and I was in a hurry). When I did the second fixture I broke out the electrical tester first with the switch off. Yep, still had juice at the wires in the ceiling box. Every fixture I ran across had switched neutrals.
Add a junction box, pull the wires to it and install wire nuts. I like to tape my connections weatherproof or non-wp.
Already in a J-box, so I'm gooder to go. I like to wire nut, then tape. Wait a minute, I could have sworn I added a pic...........here we go
Agreed. Don't know if those bases have a ground......I'll check before buying. Might put in a cheap wall sconce, if I can find one. Less obtrusive than a bulb sticking out of the wall. You can call me Ray, or you can cal me Jay, But ya' doesn't has ta' call me Johnson. Ring any bells?
Yea, bond that box. Twist the grounds together and use a bonding crimp, tie one to the screw clamp for the romex, use the other to tie to the new fixture.
This box is actually clean if compared to some I've opened in this house. Since I plan to not use the 14, should I undo the grounds, and just tie the 12 to the box and fixture?
Ole Ray... what a nut he was. I bet everyone has met a "Ray" in their lifetimes... remember the beer ad?
