I'm sure I'm not the only guy in the FHC family that comes across logs that you just hate processing into firewood. I have a talented wood worker in the family to utilize the end-product but we both are limited on storage space for drying. My question is this, is it worth getting into an Alaskan/mini-mill setup to occasionally produce lumber (milling the odd log) to feed his wood working hobby? Here are two logs (black cherry) that we'd both like to see milled. 18"-20" x 10ft
I'm with ya on wanting a mill, except I'd like to build a band mill. There are places that sell the wheels, tensioners & guides. The rest is pretty basic.
That looks like a great wack of cherry! For anything under 24" diameter I would absolutely NOT get a chainsaw mill, unless you just can't get it out of the woods. I strongly recommend finding someone local with a portable bandsaw mill (like a Woodmizer). These are way faster, more accurate, leave better finish (less waste later cleaning it up), waste less wood in the kerf, etc... and they are cheap! You just can't compare the largest chainsaws to a 30-50 hp gas or diesel with hydraulic log handling. I've had great experiences with two different guys around here. I've probably had over 3K bd-ft sawn up over the last 7 years. Looking at your cherry there, I would bet you would be looking at about 1.25 - 3 hours total work time including set up depending if you just cut into thick slabs ("flitch sawing"), cant saw or quartersawn, etc. For example, I recently had two 10' x 16-18" white oak logs sawn into thick slabs It's not firewood but, it's wood. | Firewood Hoarders Club . This took something like 45 minutes and cost me like $33. Admittedly, I brought the logs to him so I saved the $50 set up charge.
Here's another example. 1250 bd-ft of 4/4 red oak in less than 4 hours, about $250 including having him come to my place and set up. There is absolutely no way a chainsaw mill will compete with that.
P.S. Seal the ends of those logs as fast as you can and get them off the ground if you can. They are beautiful!
Ok Mike, I get what you're saying and I realize the limitations/negatives of a chainsaw mill. But we are talking very little production here. Like less than half a dozen logs per year and I'm pretty sure my FIL can't keep up with that even. I have heard wisperings of there being a sawmill in the area, one supposedly at the farmers museum (could be a crapshoot getting it done there?) and one other that sounds like it does very little work these days. I have a long-shot connection to a portable band-mill but again, long-shot. Moving these off site is a minor hurdle as well as I don't have a trailer. Would have to borrow a friends. Tell me more about preserving the logs please..... I'm a total newb at this.
Get the ends sealed as fast as possible. Old, left over latex paint works fine. There is also a wax product called Anchor Seal that is made specifically for end sealing, but it's a little more expensive. Woodmizer has a "Find a Local Sawyer" function on their website Find a Local Sawyer I think some of the other bandmill companies have similar lists. Google for "custom saw mill" or something like that can turn up sources as well. I hope this isn't forbidden, but there is a website called The Forestry Forum where a lot of millers hang out.
What a link! That page is awesome! Now I have 3-4 local leads to run down. Thanks Mike! Side Note: You can mention other sites on FHC (with one exception) so long as it is relevant to the topic. We are not advertising driven, hence no harm no foul as we do not "compete" with similar sites for advertising $$.
Great advice going on here... Very nice stacks mike bayerl, and key info Awaiting results of your search, @MasterMech
MM, Mike's got some great advice. If I tried a little bit, I could find several guys with band mills close by. Fairly inexpensive way to get logs roughed. Allow approximately one year per inch of thickness for drying, unless you can find someone with a kiln. If you don't seal the ends, the chance of splitting on the ends increases and you'll lose some good lumber. I'm still contemplating doing the Alaskan thing, just for the "fun factor".
Im right there with you Dave. The other appeal for me of the Alaskan is that it takes me just as much time and effort to move the logs off-site (as I would have to borrow/rent equipment to do so) as it would to just mill it in place. And at the volumes I would be looking to produce, loss of bd/ft wouldn't be a big deal.
MM, buddy son just picked one up for 3 grand complete circular saw type new. I will see what brand and model.. a lot of coin for a few logs a year! I agree cherry is to pretty for fire wood.. You also probably got saws big enough for double duty
How big is this thing? A circ mill big enough for these logs is gonna be too big for me unfortunately but I'd love to take a look see at what he got! I really don't have room to store anything bigger than an Alaskan setup here. I'm already trying to reduce the wheel count around here! Not sure the wife would go for a milling rig setup in the driveway, she's always harping on me about the wood piles now! Cherry is messy as firewood anyways. The bark chips off and winds up EVERYWHERE!
I agree on taking it to a band mill. I'm not a fan of chainsaw mills. They have their place milling out crotch table tops or oddities but for lumber the plane/finish work time and losses would be great. The kerf boards youll lose with a chainsaw mill will be enough to pizz you off. I'd be looking for trailer you could mod with a winch so you can get those to a mill. Something like this. You can always use the trailer for something else. The finish on band milled lumber will allow you to sell some boards to recoup trailer costs. Or just sell excess logs to the mill.
That's a nice log! Personally I'd nip off that crooked bit at the end that you're standing on. Of course I think you should go for it on the CSM. I'm in kind of the same boat in regards to the ability to move my logs. I'd need to beg borrow or rent the equipment, and even if I could get it, I'd have to knock down more trees than I care to in order to drag them out. So if I lose a board or 2 to the kerf, I think it still adds up to a lot less than losing entire trees that happen to be in my way. It's a crazy amount of hard physical labor the way that I do it, but the rewards are well worth it in my opinion. I also enjoy being in complete control of the process and timeline. If it's a nice day and I feel like making some lumber, I gas up and head into the woods for some playtime. The best way to reduce checking in my experience is to get that log sawn up right away. Now that you've cut it to length, you've got about a week if the sun is shining before the ends start checking. When you saw it up, especially if you remove the heart, you release much of the tension that leads to the radial cracking. With a good sharp chain and good technique, I can get a finish that's pretty close to what I get from my vertical bandsaw with carbide tipped blade. The face shown on the far right was sawn on my bandsaw - the rest are straight off the chainsaw.
