In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Fahrenheit Endurnace 50F Project

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by BAN83, Sep 24, 2015.

  1. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    I didn't check mine but will get back on it! If it was tempered with, it was the PO.
     
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  2. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Must be, and wow, yours does burn a lot better than mine. 120F is all I can get out of mine on heat setting 5.
     
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  3. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Mine is off at 100 F and on around 130 F.
     
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  4. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    Are you measuring where the probe is? The probe is seen from the 10" hole on top of furnace which is where the heat goes out and up.

    Cause if you get 120 and it's set to blow at 130....something is off.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2015
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  5. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Mine shows off at 110, on at 130 & high limit of 200.
     
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  6. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    130 degrees must be set from factory
     
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  7. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I think mine is on at 130° off around 100°. Otherwise I get On/off on level 2. I have it set so it only shuts off for level 1 (pilot/Maintenance burn).

    If I recall, mine was like 1,800 (cold) with the organ stove when I got it. I have never tested it after the sail switch, manifold, motor, impeller, ash pan gasket, door gasket, hopper sealing, hopper gasket, burn pot mods, etc..

    I'd be interested to see what I get now? I'd pay shipping both ways and take video for you after you get your baseline?
     
  8. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I agree. That thermometer should go over 130° before the blower kicks on. Because all the heat is just sitting there rising till it hits the back draft damper.

    I'm at a friends house now. But I'll double check my settings tonight
     
  9. BAN83

    BAN83

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    The thermometer I am taking my reading with is very crude. Also, the dash marks on the thermostat are a bit hard for me to read. But it appears my stove is fairly close in thermostat settings to what everyone else has.

    When I take my air temp reading I'm placing a meat thermometer into the air stream as it passes out the front of the deflector. My stove isn't connected to the heating ducts yet.

    Really, to get good accurate readings I am going to get a Type K thermocouple for my 4 in 1 meter and then take some temp readings. just above the fire box and in the air blowing out of the deflector.
     
  10. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Sweet. That'd be a good little experiment. I'm definitely game to figure out a plan to do some testing with the unit I bought on your stove.

    I did some quick tests tonight and was getting 1700 ish, wide open. That being said I was loosing some air around the device. To be accurate I guess your supposed to rig up a device to get all air flow past the anemometer. I still have to rig up a hose to do this. But I will report back when I get the readings.

    To me though, something still seems off in my unit. With all the upgrades I have done my unit still doesn't seem to move the air it should be moving. I wish I had bought an anemometer and taken some reading before I did the mods. I shouldn't have to run wide open to make the unit burn clean.

    I redid the ash pan seal tonight and did another clean behind the back panel. Got a bit more debris, but nothing crazy. Also, tested with the Base Tee cleanout cap off and the change in air flow is like 50ish fpm. Again, this is without a hose to give a good seal between the stove and anemometer.

    Furthermore, just taking a quick reading at the air intake for the glass cleaning port the anemometer reads around 400 fpm. And that's just holding the device in front of the intake port. It's probably much more than that.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2015
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  11. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I just took the cover off, mine is around 145° (on) and 100° (off).

    Raise your on temp and the temp when the blower turn on will be much higher.

    I haven't taken any temp readings this year, but I am putting the Thermocouple back in today. Even though it kicks on at 145°, after 10 minutes of runnimg, the temp will stabilize to whatever heat setting you have it on (max air temp for that setting).

    The wife has been baking cookies all day (literally) and I had a fire in the wood stove. So I'm pretty sure the furnace will be idle until at least late tonight.

    (Yes I know the Max shut off temp isn't at 200°. I don't want this fire beast reaching 190°. So it's set there.)
    1450656563157.jpg
     
  12. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Yeah, but if I raise the on temp, the air cools pretty quick anyways, so do I really gain anything?

    Also, I've found on heat setting 5, my stove fires MUCH quicker than on heat setting 3. It must have something to do with the amount of fuel in the burn pot??? Today when I started it I started it on heat setting five and it had flames in under 5 min. I never timed it exactly.
     
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  13. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    The stove starts on level 5, regardless of heat setting. If you have the newer LCD control panel, you'll see " Stabilizing". That's the furnace getting to temp and building a "bed" of coals to run on the heat level you have it set for.

    So whether it's on 1 or 5, the start up is the same. It may have had a smaller batch of pellets in thr auger.

    I try to buy the shortest pellets I can find (that burn well). The smaller the pellet, the less air space yiu have, and the more feed you get per auger revolution.

    Do you still have the 4 rpm auger in?
     
  14. Triple A Arsenal

    Triple A Arsenal

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    Does the deflector cover the 10" output on top?
     
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  15. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Yes it does.
     
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  16. ivanhoe

    ivanhoe

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    Old LED board and put the 2 rpm auger back in.
     
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  17. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    Either way, it should start on 5. I'll have to check with Matt to find out for sure? But I'm sure it was in the program. Because depending on fuel it needs to build a bed of coals. Especially low MC corn.
     
  18. BAN83

    BAN83

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    I guess the big thing is that I am still starting my stove on manual. So it seems to start on the heat setting I set on start up. But good to know on auto start that unit does start on heat setting #5. I will ensure that when I start the stove in manual, I always start it in heat setting 5.

    The pellets I am burning are a touch longer than probably what is optimal, however, I also still have an auger alignment issue. The auger chute does not line up properly to the pellet chute that drops the pellets into the burn pot. I've watched this unit burn long enough now that I am seeing a big pattern where the pellets are being damaged at the top of the auger before they can drop into the burn pot. These damaged pellets don't have enough body to get a good burn out of them, or to allow for the building of a good coal bed.

    What I am going to need to do is lift the whole hopper so that I can align it better with the chute. Do you have any experience on this? Matt has given me a few pointers on what I need to do.

    As for the 4 rpm auger, no, I took it out and put the OEM auger back in the stove.

    As for the LED screen, it has been pointed out to me that I may qualify for the LED upgrade. I still haven't asked this of Matt, but will do so this week.
     
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  19. BAN83

    BAN83

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    HAHA.

    Hey Ivan, I love that you know the status of my unit as well as I do! SO yup, what was said of Ivan is where the stove is at!
     
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  20. BAN83

    BAN83

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    Just to mention again. I start my stove in manual, so I have played with what setting I start it on. Sooooo, there are times I have started the unit on setting #3 (my bad) not knowing any better. However, knowing what I know now. I will always start it on setting 5.
     
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