Fahrenheit Endurnace 50F Project

Too bad, even though the cycle time is long. It is nice to at least have the option. I think for the most part when I get mine running I'll run it so that it never shuts off, just idles back. Or at least I'll start out trying it that way. I'm still a ways off anyways. I haven't even run a t-stat line to it yet.

 

Awesome. Well sounds like even though you haven't been burning as long, you have spent more time than me tuning. I didn't really have to tune the Harman, there is no air adjustment. Just turn it out and let it crank. But I know it looses a lot of heat out the exhaust pipe.

You mention about the "torch" type flame. I think that's what's got me hung up on the 50F, I'm used to the flame pattern of the Harman, when I shouldn't be. Every brand of stove has a different flame. I need to just focus on the burn quality and heat output.

Thanks again for the information. Keep it coming.

 

I think you nailed it, focusing on burn quality and heat output.

For the heat output part, as it's measured here w/ the K-type thermometer, having the thermo probe wire in a defined, consistent location has been key to tuning. The stove here has a front slotted grate in front of the heat exchange tubes, the thermo probe wire is attached to that grate w/ alligator clips, the wire is directly in front of the center upper heat exchange tube, in free air space, 1 inch (2.54 cm) from the exit.

If I have to remove the thermo probe wire for servicing, it goes back to that -exact- same location, else the readings will differ, vs. previous / expected.

If you decide to use a thermometer to measure heat exchange output to aid in tuning, picking a location, and using that location consistently will give you the best results I've found here.

Regardless of what type of thermometer (traditional, digital, IR) you choose, using the same spot for all measurement, is a good thing.

 

Here's a few pics of the install that I have been promising.



So took this one after I started painting tonight. Yes I used plywood, but it's because the area is mechanical room and the back area that you see in the other pictures will be pellet storage, a small work area and some racking. I wanted the durability. The stove has all the clearances required from combustibles. And I know I know, surge protector will be purchased this weekend



Just a pic showing how I went out through the foundation. The lower hole is access the a base tee cleanout in the bottom of the vertical rise. Not sure how I will finish this portion yet. Maybe some tin to make it look pretty.



Just another pic showing the venting inside the house. I used 45's to try and help improve air flow, as well as eliminate as much horizontal venting as possible. The twist in the base tee on the stove was done to allow access to the air intake. It's one of the things I don't care for on the 50F. I wish they'd put the air intake where there was more room to get at it.



What will be future pellet storage!! Don't mind the mess.



One coat of paint on. Probably will take three to get a good finish.

Also, I know the stove is facing an odd direction, but I did this based on the layout of the basement and what would be easiest for stove access as well as ducting access when the time comes to tie it in.

 

Right on. As with all testing and experiments, repeatability and constancy is key. Thanks for chiming in on the thread.

 

Looks awesome, lot's of room to manoeuvre about. I might have a idea for the clean out hole, they sell chimney ash caps at my local hardware store. Different sizes and made by Selkirk, about $3o-35.

 

Sure did. These pics are almost 3 years old. Only real change is that the hot air ducts are insulated now.

 

I still hit my head on my ductwork when changing the air filter. That's one benefit of the reflectix insulation I put on the round duct. It softens the blow.

 

That's smart thinking there 343amc.

 

That's Sexy, lol.

I haven't tied mine in yet. What to get it working right first. What did you used for your OAK?

 

That's a mint install Dex. I'm jealous of the installs you guys have. They look great. I've got a long way to go.

 

This is great to hear. Still not getting a lot of heat out of my stove. Hopefully over the weekend I'll get it tweaked. I've got a great flame in it now. Just not getting the heat out of it with the distribution blower. Not sure why. Then I'll move on to installing a t-stat and ducting.

Yeah, where I put my stove is the septic line. I keep smoking my head on it. Jeepers, I know I'm going to have to pad it.

Great. No worries. Whenever you can get them posted is great.

 

The OAK is 3" gas vent pipe like you'd use for a water heater. Nothing fancy, but relatively inexpensive and safe.

 

I think you replied to a post earlier answering that question. Don't think you posted pics.

It looks good though. Ivanhoe posted some pics too I think and he did something similar. I think that's what I do as well for mine as I haven't OAK'd it yet.

 

I got a DT-M vent with built-in OAK. Old Fart as the same vent so not him either.

 

I like that 2nd pic, that furnace looks like hot-rod w/ all the 'chrome' piping, very nice.

You guys do great installs! Just so you know, your Furnace could gobble up (2) of the Francesca stove here, and still have room for dessert..

ban83, you're off to a great start - I'm sure your install will turn out excellent also.

Great pics guys!

 

It will look as good as ours or even better when you're done. You're off to a great start like CleanFire says. Taking your time helps on doing all the right modifications, not been rush through. The vent with 45's will make cleaning much easier, I'm not a fan of 90's.

 

The adhesive foam gasket for the door, I tried the following product from Home Hardware #5510-000. It's called AEROTAPE, 1/8" x 2" x 30' made by ITP Thermo Polymers Ltd. I just cut it to size And double up on the latch side.