In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Keeping The Glass Clean

Discussion in 'The Wood Pile' started by Mr A, Nov 24, 2015.

  1. Mr A

    Mr A

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    Probably most of know that a little elbow grease, a damp newspaper, and some wood ash will clean the soot off your burners' glass door. I never thought of it before, while applying more elbow grease than I cared to after too much soot build up, I remembered as a kid in scouts, that we coated the bottom of a pan with dish soap, and the soot from the camp fire wiped right off. So I rubbed my glass with dish soap. Any one do this? Dish soap is also good to rub on your glasses, safety goggles, etc and helps them not fog up. Also softens caulking, to clean it or remove it.
     
  2. Grizzly Adam

    Grizzly Adam null

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    I might start if it works well for you.
     
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  3. Star Gazer

    Star Gazer

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    I do use a little dish soap and water in a spray bottle to clean my stove glass and I think it works pretty well. I never thought to use it straight and rub the glass with it after. And never knew it could be used for the ways you mentioned. I'll have to give them a try!

    Thanks for the tips!
     
  4. Sconnie Burner

    Sconnie Burner

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    Definitely report back on the direct application to the glass! I use the actual stove glass cleaner that seems to have a conditioner in it that leaves a slight slick film on the glass. It really helps keep the sooty film from sticking to hard. I clean the glass about once a week. It will be interesting to hear how the dish soap holds up.
     
  5. Mirkwood Jim

    Mirkwood Jim

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    Wet wipes (I have two little ones) dipped in the wood ash works a treat for me. I also used to use a little vinegar and wood ash before the babies meant there are always wipes on hand :)
     
  6. Mr A

    Mr A

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    It works! I was able to wipe soot of the glass with my finger! My dish soap was watered down and stil left enough of a film to separate the soot from the glass. Full strength would probably be better.
     
  7. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum Mirkwood Jim. Methinks we have a couple other members from your side of the pond.
     
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  8. Star Gazer

    Star Gazer

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    Earlier today I cleaned the glass as I normally do, and then applied the dish soap full strength. That really clouded up the glass so I wiped a lot of it off, not to the point of being completely off, but a much thinner layer. I'll have to see what happens next time I clean the glass. There are usually 2 stubborn spots, the lower corners, so I guess we'll see.

    I clean the glass when I get rid of most of the ash in the stove which is generally around a week.
     
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  9. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    What about RainX? It's silicone based, and silicone has plenty of heat resistant properties...
    Of course, Neoceram glass shouldn't need any cleaner at all... But then again, not all stoves employ this type of ceramic glass....
    I've always read a hot fire should do the clean up on its own. My $.02 of course.
     
  10. milleo

    milleo

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    Yup...What Eric said....
     
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  11. HDRock

    HDRock

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    It sure does, cold starts and small fires cause buildup on the bottom sides, once it gets cold and I start burning full loads, hot long fires, like this past weekend the glass stays almost perfectly clear.
    After awhile it will get a little haze on it though
     
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  12. gmule

    gmule

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    All I need for the fire view is a damp paper towel to wipe away a little bit of fly ash once or twice a month
     
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  13. Star Gazer

    Star Gazer

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    Sure, hot fires will or at least should keep the glass clean, but that is usually for those who keep their stoves at a relatively constant temperature. Mine on the other hand goes through 2 or 3 cycles daily. That's a total cool down with no coals up to 500 to 650 degrees and then drop from there. My problem is, I can only go with a handful of kindling and a small to medium sized split which brings the stove up to the 500 to 650 degree range. Then I'll have to damp it down almost completely and let it go from there. Even then, the house gets very warm. Like 76 to 84 degrees! By the time the house cools down enough to warrant another fire, there are no coals left and the stove is stone cold. I usually only add the 3rd cycle when the overnight temperatures drop into the low 20's.

    The glass does get some buildup towards the bottom where it is heavier in the lower corners, which is why I decided to try the method of applying straight dish soap to the glass. So far, I don't think I like that part since even a thin layer seems to give the glass a yellowish tint which has remained through quite a few cycles. The next time the stove cools, I may just clean off the glass and go back to using a little dish soap and water in a spray bottle. Then wipe it off with a microfiber cloth since that has always seemed to give me the clearest view.

    It's not that the darkened glass in the corners were all that bothersome, but I'm always looking for ways to make things a little more efficient. The temperatures I mentioned are stove top readings and occasionally backed up with an IR thermometer.
     
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  14. gboutdoors

    gboutdoors

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    I only have to clean the glass once a month or so. I find that dry wood and hot fires keep it clean.
     
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  15. Star Gazer

    Star Gazer

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    Early this morning I cleaned the glass, and the lower corners as usual. I didn't find it any easier to clean those corners with a film of full strength dish soap vs dish soap and water in a spray bottle. In my case an old windex bottle. So I went back to the way I had been cleaning the glass.:confused:

    I will still be testing the other tips though. Nothing ventured, nothing gained! :hair:
     
  16. Skier76

    Skier76

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    I use quad zero (0000) steel wool on the stubborn areas. Works great. I wouldn't go with anything much coarser; don't want to scratch the glass.

    I used to detail cars back in the day 0000 steel wool was a great way to get the compound sling from the buffer off the glass after it had dried. Never use on mirrors!
     
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  17. Ashwatcher

    Ashwatcher

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    I use a combination of a razor blade (slide out single edge blade) to scrape whenever necessary and then buff with the 0000 as Skier76 mentions above-The steel wool polishes the glass and I feel gives it a degree of resistance to new particles adhering...that being said, with the Fireviews air wash system, hot fires keep it pretty clear but I understand the flucuations in temp lending to the problem-you can also buff with b/w newspaper print...JMO
     
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  18. Ashwatcher

    Ashwatcher

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    image.jpeg Here you go Star Gazer-This will get you into those corners. Good luck!
     
  19. ranger bob

    ranger bob

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    Q Do you leave the glass with quite a bit left on so you can see the soap residue after it dries or do you keep polishing it until it is perfectly clean? I've been using the cream for the glass topped kitchen stove called 'stove bright' and then polishing it off after it dries. We both do like clean glass so we can peer inside and see what's what. Heat is not an issue with this Regency F5100 and we have lot's of seasoned wood. I am beginning to suspect that this glass fouling is going to be an issue no matter how we burn it or how well seasoned the wood is. It seems to be the nature of the beast.
     
  20. Mr A

    Mr A

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    I just wipe it on, not polish it in. I read getting soot on the glass means an air leak. I should replace the glass gaskets, but in the mean time, the soot does seem to be coming off easier.