New Endurance 50f

It was -7 last night and it was going back up during the night. I got a 19 1/2 inch away from the wall to the end of the T-cap.

 

Thanks man, looks like you have lots of heat supply. Where you located in the north if you don't mind me asking.
old fart

 

Just north of North Bay. I will be going to Ottawa this Friday, might be able to stop by to see this set-up of yours. You're a little off the beaten path but close enough to not worry about it!

 

Sorry but it will have to be another time. We are headed up to the camp Wednesday for 4 or 5 days. Got some work to do
before the deer hunt.
Old Fart

 

No problem, there will be more opportunities to connect later. Stay warm.

 

Well the last piece of pipe finally came in. My wife picked it up last week while I was in deer camp. Got at it this week so it may soon be fired up. I have a couple questions before I finish the pipe install. Could I use a spray foam insulation behind the wall plates to seal for cold air in the cement block wall.???????. Also is it necessary to have a minimum 7 inch from outside wall to the termination adapter. Right now I have approximately 3 inch. I don't really want to move the furnace back to the wall anymore as I only have 22 inches now. But I can if I have to. Well now I will attempt to attach a few pics.
Old fart

 

Nice looking install...fire that baby up

 

Does anybody know the answers to my questions.
Thanks all OF

 

What i did, i sprayed the expansion foam around inside the cement blocks then I put both thimbles together. I then used the insulation kit from Selkirk on the inside of the thimbles and placed the piping through it. I would have it longer outside but you might get away with it because the wall outside is brick/cement blocks. If you need the extra length, you can move the furnace closer to the wall if not passing code. Mine is 13" from the wall and the elbow 90 is almost touching the thimble.

 

If it concerns you or anyone else that matters, order up a 12" piece and extend it.

 

I would of brought it up but waiting for the part could of been a issue. Moving the furnace back 4" would give the 7" he needs and save a $100. Good call none the less

 

Thanks guys I appreciate the answers. I don't have a concern about the distance its just that Selkirk says a minimum of 7 inches.
I guess that means from a combustible wall. I thought I could fill the space between the blocks and the wall thimble with a spray foam.so I guess I can. Thanks again guys.
Old fart

 

My thimbles didn't reach each other because my wall was thicker so I made a extension ring to join them together so no open gap. Your vent-cap could be close to your cement outside chimney would be something I would be somewhat concerned. Maybe a 30-45 elbow to swing it away would be something to consider. At the same time add to 7" length required!

 

Looking good! You are closer to firing you stove than me! I got held up the last couple weeks.

 

I will call Selkirk to see why the 7 inch minimum is required. I have the situation with the wall thimbles not reaching each other so I will make up an extension as well. If I have to I will just move the furnace closer to the wall. Ivanhoe I notice you have your final exhaust T in a horizontal position. Selkirk shows it in a vertical position in the instruction sheet. Does it matter which way it is mounted. I didn't have much of a choice to install the furnace so that is how it worked out in relation to the old chimney. I was kind of thinking it would act as a wind break for the vent. Will just have to hope for the best. I picked up a elbow for the air intake so I will fit it in place and take some pics when I have it installed. Thanks all.
Old fart

 

Thanks for pointing out the T-type exhaust cap position, my downloaded manual didn't show the T-type so I wasn't aware which way it went. I did it horizontal to keep rain out! The elbow for the air intake, show me a pic/where you got it? I've used a 2" ABS 90 male/female filed down, I was having trouble finding a steel one with a tight 90 bend.

 

The elbow I got is actually made of aluminum and can be turned to various degrees like the stove pipe 90 s. I will make this up and show some pics. Hopefully later today.
Old fart

 

The pipe I got is 3 inch and is a little tough to get in place and make it look pretty. It will work but I am going to try to get a 2 1/2
inch pipe or a 2 1/2 inch flex pipe.
Headed back up to the deer camp for the last weekend so will be back at the project come Monday.
Old Fart

 

The 3 inch aluminum elbow did not work. It just crushed when it was clamped to the air intake. It would have worked but I didn't like the look of it. After a lot of head scratching and a couple of Captain Morgans I came up with a plan and I am happy with the result. I cut off about 10 inches of the supplied air pipe and split it from end to end. Squeezed the end closed enough to fit over air intake and tapered to fit inside the 3 inch pipe bent the pipe to shape. Lots of aluminum tape around the fabricated elbow and it is very solid. Taped the 2 pieces together and clamped as well. See pics of fabrication.
Old Fart

 

This thing is almost ready to go. Just have to connect to the duct work. I moved the furnace back to the wall so now I have 8 inches away from the outside wall. Selkirk said they want 7 inches and that is so the exhaust will stain the walls with soot and also for the air intake if less than the required 7 inchs. Ivanhoe you had the T in the correct position. It does go that way to prevent snow and rain from going in. That was what the Selkirk tech rep told me. Sorry for the confusion.
Old Fart