My friend will be down to help me after the Labour Day Weekend hols. He has indicated he would help with the installation of the chimney. The place that is planned for the stove is the outside wall between two windows; wish now that we had planned for a corner installation but that can not be changed now because both windows are in the corner. I have looked at offsetting the chimney from the centre due to a stud location. If I offset the chimney from centre, then the stovepipe would have to be offset with an elbow or the stove and hearth would have to be offset as well. Both are not desirable in my opinion. The problem in opening up the drywall is that this drywall has a vinyl wallpaper covering; the whole room; big room and dinning room has this same vinyl covering. The drywall is glued to the studs to avoid having nails showing on the wallpaper. If the wall was just standard drywall, I would just cut out the sections, reframe for the chimney opening, close it up, mud it, paint it and be done. I don't want to cut the drywall because I can not without creating a seam that I have no nice way of covering; plus it would add two seams close together. I was thinking that I might could start at the window and use a thin bladed saw to carefully cut down the wall between the drywall and stud and work towards the centre. However, it would probably not be that easy and the panel is four feet wide. So I am asking for advice.
Who glues drywall to studs? Wow. Never heard of such a thing. If I'm following your description, you are taking the chimney thru the wall. I'd consider running your wall protection (tile, stone, etc) to the ceiling to cover the drywall repairs from framing in chimney pass thru or whatever its called. Your not going to get that sheetrock off in 1 piece no matter how careful you are.
I'm a little confused too. I'm not quite following the drywall being glued part. Drywall is not continuous when it's hung and the seams need to be taped and compunded, or if they are plasterered. The nails, if there were any, would be covered with compound or plaster as well. Anyways, what I'd like to ask, is if you could take some pics of the area being considered for the install. This would be alot more helpful for me to comment on.
What's the big deal if the stove and hearth are not exactly centered in the room ? 8 to 16 in one way or the other not that big of a deal IMO . If there is a stud dead center in the room and that's where you insist on putting it , it't just going to make things more difficult and cost more money. Are you going to just build a floor hearth or what ?
Manufactured home; or doublewide. They order drywall with a vinyl wallpaper applied. Therefore, they glue to the studs so nails are not showing. Yes, probably won't be able to do what I want. I want it centered because I am a perfectionist and it will yell at me every time I see it. My friend told me that I build Swiss watches LOL. There will be a hearth if I can find the funds to do so. I really wanted to be heating with wood this winter. Seriously, I want a hearth but thought I may have to wait and use one of those floor pad thingys but they are not cheap either and I would rather put that money towards the heart. The wall, I really wanted to change those drapes out before posting photos LOL.
I think your gonna need a through the wall thimble which will cover the hole you cut. http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-shasta-vent-thru-the-wall-kit.html
^This. All you need to do is use the thimble as a template. Cut round hole centered between studs. You won't have any wall repair to do.
I asked about removing the wallboard without clearly explaining why. In the middle of the wall there is a stud. That stud needs to be cut, and then you frame in a jack stud to transfer the load of that stud over to the jack studs.
Are you studs 16" on center? If so, you might be able to build a small header in the hole you cut for the thimble and have small Jack studs screwed to the studs to the left and right of your hole and then a bottom plate over the stud you cut.
So it looks like there are trim strips over the seams of the two 4 x 8 sheets covering that area between the windows. Why not do what you need to do and then just replace those two sheets or maybe just repaint to purposely distinguish the space, or cover that area with some tile, stone, or... BTW, I have seen stoves that were centered but had a offset stovepipe to clear studs...I thought it looked fine
It probably would be OK, I was thinking of doing a wall thing behind the stove so that would make the offset more obvious. I don't even know what materials to use for the wall or hearth. I meant to do some searches on here. I talked to the folks at Lowe's and the ones I spoke with had no idea what I should use. It would bother me; I would notice it like a sore toe. The good thing is that the siding between the windows will only be eight foot lengths or a bit less; the distance between the two windows. Of course other sections will be longer.
My previous home we used concrete/wonder board and porcelain tile. I think members here prefer sheet metal layered in there too. We ended up doing a raised hearth and tiling all the way up to the ceiling behind the stove too, which ties into brenndatomu 's comment on "statement". Try googling the NC13 manual to see if there are material suggestions/requirements? One of the stoves in our new house was off center, they went straight up, the stove looked silly....... It is now gone but had it stayed, I would have used and adjustable collar and centered the stove.
Installs are not always going to end up where we would like them. There are lots of installs that are offset due to framing or clearance issues. The offset sounds like a good plan if you can go with it. Maybe hang a picture on the wall nearby to take the eye off the focal point of the wall thimble. I too, tend to like symmetry when I build things, so I sure do understand why you want a straight up pipe. Reframing from the outside sounds like a good idea too, but it will be a bit of work with some unknowns until you open the wall. Do you know if they glued the outside wood sheathing to the wall studs before siding it? Lots of good ideas thrown around too. Good luck and I hope you can get this to work out.
You should decide if you are doing wall protection or not before starting this, because that will change the location of the stove for clearance to combustibles. You can place the stove much closer to the wall if it's protected. Your clearances will be stated in the manual of your stove.
Yep, I think I posted the manual for the 13 in another thread for you Kimberly. I'll go grab it again.......BRB.
I noticed that the CTCs show a larger value with heat shields. Might be backwards.....calling mike holton again. Notice too, that the 13 needs (similar to the 30) a high R-value floor protection, and that the unit must be secured to the floor/hearth in a mobile home installation.
