Huskee 22 has 26" stroke ,I would like auto return to kick out at about 18" A stop block of some kind would probably have to be removed when not in use Assuming first that whatever it is will not cause damage to the shaft Could it cause any other damage ? I looked on the web a bit didn't find much. Other Ideas ?
Don't know the design of your splitter but slip in stops can be made fairly easily. I never cared for cylinder Rod clip[ for the fear of rod scratching and seal damage. On mine it was pretty easy to do and I have 17, 24 and 30 inch stops.
, Had to look at your build, I see that goes on the bottom . My wedge slides between the two channels What is this cylinder Rod clip you speak of ? I'm thinking 2 piece wood block , laminated face grain, hole down the middle to fit shaft, hinged on 1 side (top or bot) studs in slots w nuts or big azz wing nuts , or just a clamp across toe top EDIT: Or just cut a 8"block of sugar maple ,slot across the grain and slop over shaft
Well shoot I found a thread on it when I searched thr right words http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/log-splitters-and-stroke-limiters.3618/page-2
Here is more information on my build in this old thread. http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/log-splitters-and-stroke-limiters.3618/page-2
These are cylinder rod clips. You just add them for limiting the stroke. Any ag store/dealer will have them.
Thanks , good to know what they are ,but That doesn't sound real good if it's going to damage something BillinTX set up seems to be a safe bet
We used them in farming all the time for young kids running tillage equipment so they wouldn't go too deep. For the most part they don't do any damage as they are soft metal riding on the chrome shaft. It's just one of those things I try to avoid if possible. If your splitter has a lot of vibration it may mess with the chrome on the shaft over time.
The concern with limiting the stroke on most splitters is the end of the cylinder rod. They aren't meant to have much force applied in reverse. On mine, it'll shear the relatively small retaining pin easily. Other problems have arising from stopping the wedge at its base as it creates a twisting/shearing force at the point where the rod attaches to the wedge. I've see the welds fail and in one case, the threaded nose of the cylinder rod snapped. Bill's setup is pretty ingenious. Clean up the design a bit (cosmetically) and I bet it'd be pretty marketable.
This is exactly why I ask before doing anything. This all makes good sense and I did not spend good money on the splitter to tear it up just to save a little time. Next up, hook up a bungee cord or something to keep that pivot pin from rattling like crazy, that metal to metal contact even with hearing protection is very annoying
