Using the maul as a wedge?

Garant splitting mauls

Splitting maul, 6 lbs drop-forged and tempered steel head with cutting edge polished, black, 36 in. varnished hickory axe handle. Used for splitting wood in conjunction with woodsplitting wedge by first making a notch with the splitting edge and then driving the wedge with the maul pis striking face.

 

gransfors bruk, I think they know a little about axes and mauls


How should the head of the Gränsfors Splitting Maul and Gränsfors splitting wedge be maintained? What happens when steel strikes steel?
If a steel axe head is struck against timber, there is very little risk of the steel being deformed or damaged. If an axe head is struck against another steel object such as a steel splitting wedge, on the other hand, the steel surfaces which strike one another are affected. An axe designed only for chopping (such as a forest axe), which does not have a large splitting head, will crack if its head is struck against steel.
Only a splitting maul, with a large head and filed edges on the head, should be used when working together with a steel splitting wedge. But even the head on a splitting maul and a steel splitting wedge will be affected and deformed when steel strikes steel.
There are a number of variables which alter how steel is affected when steel strikes steel:

• Type of steel (ductile or less ductile).
• Whether or not the steel (e.g. the axe head) is hardened – the hardness.
• The shape of the steel surface – flat, convex or concave, filed edges.
• The mass of the two steel bodies – how large they are.
• The force of the blow.
• How firmly the receiving steel is mounted in its base – what resistance.

The steel will deform less if it is hardened, but at the same time there is a greater risk of the surface of the steel cracking and “shooting” steel chips from an edge. This can be very hazardous. Gränsfors Bruk recommends that protective goggles and sturdy clothing should always be worn when striking steel on steel.

 

I am done now. I have sufficiently backed up my previous statement.

 

Thanks for the researched info from the manufactures....

 

Well, I've been beatin' on the same 8# maul since about 1982. It's still takin' a beatin'. If it's sticks, I hit it.
The last couple years or so l've been grinding and polishing it, to try to lighten it up a bit and it doesn't stick as much as it used to. Never had a problem hitting it though.

 

Maybe something like this would work:

Should be safe to hit.

It would be nice to get the wedge well in before having to take the sledge to it.

 

A Fiskars maul? Where'd you find that? I don't see it on the Fiskars site. I need a new maul.

 

They are sold in Europe. Haven't purchased one yet.

 

Fiskars x39

 

I've seen them online but would like to at least hold one before spending that kinda dough. Does anywhere here sell them? Anyone have one?

 

There's a company that sells the original state side. I'll see if I can find it.

Eta it was the leborgne maul that's the x37. Halder spaltaxt and spalthammer are available in the U.S.