The Chimney

I have been reading some of the brochures on the stainless steel chimneys. My situation; doublewide manufactured home; vinyl siding on the outside of the house; 2x4 walls with fibreglass bats (I said R24 in the walls but it is probably R12); walls are drywall with a vinyl wall paper; the lounge/dinning area ceilings are vaulted. The only place to place the stove will be in the lounge; three walls, one outside wall and the other two are inside walls. I don't really like the idea of having the flue pipe inside the room from the stove to the ceiling. Plus I have to cut two holes; one in the ceiling and one in the roof; I question placement if I change the stove out to a different one with different clearances; then the flue collar on the stove would not line up with the opening at the ceiling; is this a proper concern? I looked at one brochure and it showed the chimney up the side of the house and through the soffit and then through the roof. I have a very narrow soffit on the house. I appreciate any guidance I can get on this as I want to do this correctly. I emailed the building department and all they told me was that the stove had to be a manufactured home approved one.

How hot does the outside of the chimney get in operation?

 

Kimberly, I got that setup at my house, see you are smarter than i, because I just did it, before i found FHC, if I were to do it again I raise thimble through the wall higher so I could have more up before out. will improve draft. about 2 feet below ceiling but others may have more reasons for lower. then save up and when you get the money if you want build a chase, basically 2x4 plywood hard insulation(important!) vinyl siding to match,.



I got winds and good draft. the down side of an exterior chimney is it get colder faster creates more creosote the insulation helps mitigate that situation also you have 2 90 degree angles in first 5 feet less draft. the upside is cleaning I can quick clean chimney in 5 minutes with stove running. I drop bottom circle both dampers most times 1 minute do not even need brush done. more of a look than a clean half cup dry creosote fall out. my chase looks like this. took about 6 to 7 hours to build. need to put a trap door put on bottom to finish it's a joke with wife another unfinished project

 

Here is a photo of the exterior of the house and the soffit. Yes, I have some spring work to do washing the siding of the mildew and painting the soffits and cleaning or painting the gutters. looks worst in the photos than it really is. Part of living in a warm humid area.



The idea is to place the stove between those two windows in the photo.


What do I do about the soffit and gutter/eavestrough? The soffit is not very wide.

 

If it were my place, I would reconsider and put it through the ceiling. Just personal preference. Around here, it is always better to have a chimney terminate closer to the peak of the roof than along the eave.

 

I removed the metal flashing with utility knife leave it long to wrap it back around an cut back the shingles. saw zaa the wood eve and boxed it in added blocking above an below built frame of chase and flashed it in replace the shingle and tacked up sheet metal behind dura vent in cavity to be extra safe and remember to caulk it in.

 

Not possible, that would have the stove in the middle of the room between the lounge and the dining area (one large open area)

 

Sounds similar to my BIL/sister's setup. They did well with running the vent through the ceiling with the stove being next to an outside wall.

 

Thanks for the video; I think I need to watch more of these videos to get a clear understanding of what is involved in putting in the chimney.

 

Is there some reason why the stove would be farther from the wall , if you went through the roof , something in the way in the ceiling or what?

 

Kimberly, going thru the wall is not best option, but in your setup it sounds like only option you like, should not be a problem this stove seems to like it. I chose to go thru wall because where I wanted stove in room would have been 2 ceilings an exterior wall and a roof. it's worked fine for me. in future may put another stove in big brick chimney in center of house (ideal situation) designed for it. starts in basement to roof 40 feet and lots of mass. but if I did that first the living room would still be unused because of design of house. losing 400 square feet of living space for 6 month of year made me choose this first.
Remember how tall this will need to be but put it in and save money. I assume your working on wood soon. keep asking questions and good luck

 

It's going to cost ya a lot more money for chimney pipe ,going through the wall , and just as much work

 

hey HD, you get a for being a find a video cause a pictures worth a 1000 words or 2000 if I am trying to explain it. great job!

 

HD is right again, I meant save money on electric heat costs versus wood.

 

I was curious too , never put a chim through the wall myself , so I can't explain it anyway.
Ya still gotta frame it in

 

Yes, down here the trees are starting to bud out; I have trees that need to come down to get light into the little valley garden so they will be the first. I am hoping my friend will have time to help me as well. 8N is not yet running but at least we can get the trees down and cut and I will transport to wood storage area, which I have not yet decided on, when the tractor is running. True, I am not crazy about the vertical pipe look, just me but cutting a hole in my roof scares me; just put a new roof on last year which I have not yet paid for; and the idea bothers me. The idea was a wall of something behind the stove and a mantle above that and the pipe would spoil the aesthetics. However, I am still in the planning stage on the chimney so will give it more thought.

 

If you decide to go through the wall, the chimney can be spaced off the house enough to clear that small overhang. The gutter could be cut and capped off on each side of the chimney, as long as there is a down spout for each section. The chimney will need to maintain 2" clearance from combustibles as it passes the fascia, and need braced every 5' of vertical height. Once above the roof, it must meet the 10-2-3 rule. Most stove manufactures spec a min chimney height to ensure proper draft ( roughly 15' total height measured from the stove top or floor). Also, if going through the wall, most manufacturers also spec a min vertical rise above the stove before the 90 horizontal fitting, going to the wall thimble (roughly 2'). Also to ensure good draft. Sorry, I'm not familiar with Englander specs, maybe mike holton will chime in.

 

Cutting through the roof is easy, if you decide to go that way. This is a pretty good video. There are several others on youtube.

 

Kimberly, you say new roof is it asphalt shingles or metal roofing? if shingles did you take old one off or just lay new set on? it might be just up here but all my roofers say once yards double up shingles if you cut into it it will leak.
was helping out some family in southern Indiana the had 4 and 5 layers on roof. that's illegal up here. think it has to do with weight and snow load etc.. I digress

think about it, even if you go thru eaves your cutting your roof same size hole either way! when I did mine 3 foot section of class a was like 110 a section black pipes is like 5 dollars for 3 feet on your design house I would probably go straight up. keep stove in same spot. 6 feet pipe to ceiling class a after